Atwood Hot Water GC6AA-10E issue - weird

[junior87]

Well its probably the propane regulator cause I barely open the valve to the propane tank and it throws the same amount of propane as if I would open it all the way.

[Kirk W]

8 minutes ago, junior87 said:

Well its probably the propane regulator cause I barely open the valve to the propane tank and it throws the same amount of propane as if I would open it all the way.

The distance that you open the valve does not affect the pressure of the propane from the pressure regulator unless it opened so little that it isn't possible to supply enough propane to maintain the pressure. The valve position is no indication of the proper pressure from that regulator. It should always be operated with the valve on the tank fully open.

[junior87]

Ok so then it has something to do with the propane regulator or where the gas is ignited?

[Darryl&Rita]

For now, assume the regulator is fine. If not, all the propane appliances would be affected. 

My money is on a blocked burner tube, orifice, or venturi. Get a flashlight and look past the burner tip. Look for signs of spiders or insects. If you feel mechanically inclined, remove the burner assembly and check the whole works.

Edited January 22, 2021 by Darryl&Rita

[junior87]

Ok thank you Darryl I will definitely check it out tomorrow when it's day

[Kirk W]

57 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

My money is on a blocked burner tube, orifice, or venturi. Get a flashlight and look past the burner tip. Look for signs of spiders or insects. If you feel mechanically inclined, remove the burner assembly and check the whole works.

👍

[Danny Hansen]

On 1/6/2019 at 5:32 AM, SCClockDr said:

I'd look for a mixing valve at the hot outlet. If present they are known for failing due to scaling. Many remove it and manually regulate the discharge temp with the bypass valve. One last thing to check is the outside shower. If both valves are open with the shower head valve closed hot & cold will mix.

Water heaters with mixing valves maintain higher tank temperatures. This coupled wi , Dannyth mixing in cold creates an apparent larger capacity tank.

There is a scalding risk if the mixing valve is eliminated and no cold water is mixed via the bypass.

I have the same problem with mine  , 2000 Wilderness with Atwood GC6aa . Where is the bypass valve so I can eliminate it ? Thanks , Danny

[Kirk W]

Welcome to the Escapee forums! 

I am assuming that you are asking about the water bypass for taking the water heater out of the system. If so, they are located directly behind the water heater. There are several different configurations.  This shows a 3 valve system. When the water heater is in use the center valve should be open and the other two closed.

There are also two valve systems like the one below. In this case the top valve has been replaced with a check valve in the top opening which allows water to leave the tank but not to enter. In this case the center valve should be closed when the water heater is in use and the lower valve open. To bypass for draining you open the center valve and close the lower one. 

        

There are also some RVs that have a single valve to bypass the water heater. In this case you again have a check valve in the outlet from the water heater and then use a lone 3 way valve at the point where the crossover connects to the water supply line. With this configuration, if the valve handle is parallel to the water supply line it sends water into the bottom of the water heater tank and blocks the crossover line. If the valve is turned to vertical it sends the water from the supply upward to the hot water line where the check valve prevents it going into the tank but it goes out into the hot water system. 

     

I hope that this is helpful. To see which system you have you need to gain access to the back of the water heater where the water lines connect. It is also possible that your RV does not have any crossover at all, as some RV are built without one. If it was sold without any bypass one may have been added by a previous owner or it may not have one at all.  An after-market kit would probably look something like this.

 

[JonFell]

I’m having a similar problem but my water heater lights and while let it keeps clicking and I see the sparks and the led is flashing while clicking.  Then it shuts off and cycles three times each time the same thing. After the third time it faults out.  It lights every time just keeps trying to light while lit and shuts off.  Any suggestions on this? Thanks

[Kirk W]

1 hour ago, JonFell said:

Any suggestions on this?

That sounds like the ignition probe has failed and should be replaced.

[oldjohnt]

6 hours ago, JonFell said:

It lights every time just keeps trying to light while lit and shuts off.  Any suggestions on this? Thanks

On a lot of models (no idea of yours) the ignitor tip, its electrode and wiring (flame sense circuit) serves dual functions.

1)  When the control board calls for ignition the gas valve opens and high voltage is sent to the ignitor tip and it fires tic tic tic tic high voltage arcs current across the gap to ignite the fuel. 

2) Ifffffffffff ignited the flame sense circuitry (part of the ignitor tip its wiring and also the control board) sends a signal back to the board so the gas valve remains open HOWEVER if there's no flame orrrrrrr the flame sense circuitry fails the gas valve closes and flame goes out.

I've seen problems with the ignitor tip orrrrrrrrrrrr its wiring or a bad ground connection orrrrrrrrrrrr the control board cause such problems. Ive had some luck cleaning the tip and setting the gap correctly plus checking the wiring and grounds. Actually more problems with the tip or a hairline crack or not gapped correctly versus a bad board. HOWEVER that keeping firing even after the flame appears could still be a board problem ????????? 

 Hard to say, but in the meantime check the tip, its gap, wiring and grounds.

 John T

Edited April 27, 2023 by oldjohnt

[Ray,IN]

These water heaters work off 12V and the contacts get corroded enough to prevent current flow, especially the potted circuit board. Unplug each connection approx. 3X and reattach to create a good contact again. Sometimes I've had to polish contacts with a  pencil eraser.

If that doesn't fix an ignition problem the only thing you lost is time. BTW, over 80% of all 12V problems is a poor/missing ground.

[Kirk W]

10 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

BTW, over 80% of all 12V problems is a poor/missing ground.

While my career would dispute that, I really don't see how it could be the case with this problem since there would be no spark at all if there were no ground. 

[Wrknrvr]

What flavor water heater do you have

[Pat & Pete]

28 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

What flavor water heater do you have

Ours is French Vanilla .

[Wrknrvr]

Ok.    I am tired.  Had to be funny.

 

  My HDT truck has a air leak in the fuel lines. Been hunting this leak for awhile. 

 

  So if he has a Atwood flavored water heater, loosen the 1/4” screw and tighten it. 3 times.

  It is the one on top of the burner tube that holds the burner assembly to the tank.

  Then try the water heater.

this can be done by opening the outside cover and it is easy to access.

 

[Ray,IN]

On 4/28/2023 at 4:56 PM, Wrknrvr said:

Ok.    I am tired.  Had to be funny.

 

  My HDT truck has a air leak in the fuel lines. Been hunting this leak for awhile. 

 

  So if he has a Atwood flavored water heater, loosen the 1/4” screw and tighten it. 3 times.

  It is the one on top of the burner tube that holds the burner assembly to the tank.

  Then try the water heater.

this can be done by opening the outside cover and it is easy to access.

 

I wonder if spraying your fuel lines with this would seal an air leak? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-14-oz-Waterproof-Patch-and-Seal-Clear-Spray-Paint-104056/315333263

Yep, and that  can correct a poor ground condition, which in turn can prevent proper operation of the flame  proving element or spark igniter.

Every 12V circuit must have just as good a ground side as it does a positive side to function properly.

Edited May 1, 2023 by Ray,IN

[Wrknrvr]

    The fuel lines are about half buried in with airlines and electrical wire bundles.

   I am hoping to have all new fuel lines installed today. I need to eliminate the air  leak first. If it then still has a problem, I can hopefully identify that problem and correct it also.

     But that Atwood mounting screw probably solved 65 percent of power board not operating properly on those Atwood water heaters.