GlennWest Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 I had to pull and go for this job. OK, everything worked fine last time. No lights. signals, nothing. DW followed. About halfway they started working. Then lost truck turn signals. Unlpluged camper and truck work fine. Ok today I checked out the cord, seems good. Plug at truck works, all post correct voltages. Wife says one bulb is blown. Site here is not long enough for me to leave truck in front. It is beside our Teton so can't plug in now. Any thoughts on this? 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Glenn, you can make a light tester by using a truck-end half of a 7 round connector and connecting a 24 inch, 14 gauge wire to each of the pins EXCEPT THE GROUND PIN.....leave ground pin with no wire attached. You can look up the pin schematic and label each wires function with a duct tape tag and a permanent marker. To use the tester, attach a small alligator clip to the hot wire and either touch or clamp it to the wire corresponding to the circuit you want to test. By using this tool, you don't have to have the tow vehicle connected to the trailer. It will tell you if the lights and brake magnets are working when they receive power from the camper battery. I use this tool all the time and it has been a handy item to have. It will not diagnose truck power/wiring issues other than to tell you that things work or not when they get power but it can help trouble shoot camper issues. Charlie PS...check the ground from the trailer to the truck...it can cause all sorts of issues. Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OregonJim Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Everything works sometimes, then it doesn't - most often, a problem like this is caused by a faulty ground connection. Follow the ground wire back from the connector, and it will be bolted to the frame somewhere. The bolt is usually loose or rusty. If someone prior to you did some dicey splicing in the wiring harness, that's also a suspect area to check out. Critters could also have eaten clean through the ground wire, and you're only getting an intermittent ground connection through the ball or hitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 31 minutes ago, sclord2002 said: Glenn, you can make a light tester by using a truck-end half of a 7 round connector and connecting a 24 inch, 14 gauge wire to each of the pins EXCEPT THE GROUND PIN.....leave ground pin with no wire attached. You can look up the pin schematic and label each wires function with a duct tape tag and a permanent marker. To use the tester, attach a small alligator clip to the hot wire and either touch or clamp it to the wire corresponding to the circuit you want to test. By using this tool, you don't have to have the tow vehicle connected to the trailer. It will tell you if the lights and brake magnets are working when they receive power from the camper battery. I use this tool all the time and it has been a handy item to have. It will not diagnose truck power/wiring issues other than to tell you that things work or not when they get power but it can help trouble shoot camper issues. Charlie PS...check the ground from the trailer to the truck...it can cause all sorts of issues. Sorry didn't mention. No electric brakes. Bluedot system. Actually all my wiring is labled and fused. I have a 12 volt tester.I'll go out early morrow and pull truck in front where I can plug it in. I will be blocking the dirve though. Why I didn't today. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 11 minutes ago, OregonJim said: Everything works sometimes, then it doesn't - most often, a problem like this is caused by a faulty ground connection. Follow the ground wire back from the connector, and it will be bolted to the frame somewhere. The bolt is usually loose or rusty. If someone prior to you did some dicey splicing in the wiring harness, that's also a suspect area to check out. Critters could also have eaten clean through the ground wire, and you're only getting an intermittent ground connection through the ball or hitch. While I agree with you, why did I loose the trucks turn signals while hooked to camper? Just before getting to destination, lost my truck turn signals. Unplugged camper from truck and truck went back to working correctly. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OregonJim Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 2 minutes ago, GlennWest said: While I agree with you, why did I loose the trucks turn signals while hooked to camper? Just before getting to destination, lost my truck turn signals. Unplugged camper from truck and truck went back to working correctly. As sclord2002 said, a bad ground can cause all sorts of problems. If there is no common ground, current will seek other paths. However, it seems strange that BOTH turn signals died. That would imply that you have too much of a load on the flasher when the camper is connected. Did the turn signal lights come ON, but not blink, or did they stay off altogether? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 They would not blink. That is what is concerning me. Like a shorted out system. I search out that ground morrow. Did not see it today. Hiding from me. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 It sounds like you are in a camp ground? Would someone let you plug into there truck and plug there camper int yours? This might tell you which vehicle to look at. Do you have a Jackalopee? If so use the test lights on it. A loose ground wire in one of the plugs might short out your directional lights and make the trailer lights not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Actually we are always in a campground. I also am not using the rv plug. Using the truck plug wired for the rv. Had not considered the truck ground might be at fault. Yes, have a Jackalopee. There is no one beside us so I can pull up at an angle and not block drive way. Do that morrow 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Glen, as Charlie said, start with the grounds. At the truck batteries back to the the trailer 12v grounds. Jim's Adventures Old Spacecraft.... Who knows whats next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Concur with a likely ground problem. Most likely spot that would cause this is inside the trailer plug. As a reference, use this diagram. Starting on the trailer: First, use your test light with the ground on pin 1 and the hot on pin 4 (trailer battery voltage). If that is good then ground is probably good. Still might be intermittent. Wiggle the cord and see if the test light blinks. Next just use a JUMPER wire. Put one end in Pin 4 (12VDC). Caution: DO NOT EVER PUT THE OTHER END IN PIN 1 (GROUND). To test the trailer, put the other end in: A. Pin 3 and trailer lights should work. B. Pin 5 and left turn/brake light should work. C. Pin 6 and right turn/brake should work. D. Pin 2 and brakes circuit should actuate. Test the truck with a TEST light in a similar fashion. Click For Full-Size Image. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Went from pin 4 to chassis/hitch ground and no power at all. Which that could be the fuse. Didn't check it 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Heiser Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 I had an issue with my truck several months back that was similar to what you are describing, but not exactly the same. I went through every wire on the truck from the plug forward. Long story short, it turned out to be a faulty blinker switch on the steering column. I had good 12 volt going to the switch, but only intermittent 12 volt coming out of it. It was making all kinds of weird issues with my truck and trailer turn signals. Once I diagnosed the issue and replaced the switch everything went back to working as it should. 2009 Volvo 670 with dinette/workstation sleeper - Walter 2017 DRV Mobile Suite 40KSSB4 with factory mods, dealer mods and personal mods - now in the RV graveyard 2022 DRV Full House MX450 with customized floor plan 2018 Polaris RZR Turbo S (fits in the garage) 2016 Smart Car (fits in the garage or gets flat towed behind the DRV when the RZR is in the garage) My First Solar Install Thread My Second Solar Install Thread & Photos and Documents Related to the build My MX450's solar, battery and inverter system - my biggest system yet! chadheiser.com West Coast HDT Rally Website Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Glen, the Jackalopee is your friend here. With the trailer hooked up, run through the functions and have someone watch the Jack. The diodes will light up if the circuit is good to there, KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 9 hours ago, GlennWest said: Went from pin 4 to chassis/hitch ground and no power at all. Which that could be the fuse. Didn't check it Did you go from Pin 4 to Pin 1 or Pin 4 to the physical hitch? The fuse between Pin 4 and your coach battery is usually a 30 amp breaker. Even then, 12 VDC missing on Pin 4 does not mean the trailer lights will not work from the truck. It does mean that the AUX input to your trailer from the truck is not electrically attached to your coach battery and that the emergency break-away (if pulled) will not put on the trailer brakes. You need to know that you have a good ground on Pin 1. Do you have a meter? You need to measure resistance from Pin 4 to chassis ground. Like Charlie said above, if there is no ground, strange things can happen. The signal sent to any trailer light will want to find a path to ground via any of the other lights back to the truck. Look for a good ground on the trailer plug. Another question: Do you have a 4x4 electrical box in the trailer hitch for a connection point between the trailer cord and the coach circuits? It is also a good place to have lost ground. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 No break away switch. Not used with bluedot system. Line is wirenut and fuse pulled in camper. Got a meter. I took the cable apart yesterday and checked resistance. It was good. All connections good. Thinking truck ground. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Ok, on truck ground pin is good. On Teton ground is good. Fuse was blown. Next to hook up and see what I got 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Ok, hooked up to truck. Right turn worked for a minute or so then lost all lights, turns, etc. Jackaloppe makes a alarm sound when turn signal on. Pull fuse to that circuit and alarm stops. Reinstall beeping alarm in ritum with turn flasher. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 OOPS, you beat me to the next test step then the system locked up for a bit. Wanted you to do some test before hooking to truck. Ok, did not catch it above that you are Blue Dot (air over hydraulic). Therefore, the loss of 12VDC at the trailer plug Pin 4, should have no impact on your system's trailer lights as all the power to them during normal ops comes from the truck. It does mean that something blew that fuse and that short might be coming from the truck on the 12 VDC, Pin 4, on the truck side. That short on the truck side will impact your truck as the 12VDC Aux through the Jackalopee is simply a pass-through only (I think). I am now suspecting a short within the truck's trailer plug. Replace the fuse and then run through the trailer light tests on the trailer plug as above before plugging into the truck. That should eliminate the trailer as a cause of your problem. If the trailer seems good, go to the Jackalopee and pull the blue wire off Pin 4 (or pull the fuse if you added and external one). Henri used the same pin numbers for the Jackalopee as the reference diagram above. Then plug in the trailer and test that the lights on both vehicles work. If they do, you don't need the Aux 12 VDC from the truck to do some more tests. Wiggle things or drive around until you are comfortable things work and the trailer fuse does not blow. Then put the blue wire back on and see if the fuse in the trailer blows. Repeat the wiggle/drive test. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Found problem. Semi plug not making good connection. Woddled it and started working. Some light corrosion, white caulky pins. Got some . Got some crc contact cleaner and waiting for it to dry good. They are so robust I just didn't think it would be problem. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Great! Buy some deoxit. It really makes the electrical connections better. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-G5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Enhancer/dp/B00FC4YO60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541261456&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+contact+enhancer Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Replacing it. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted November 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Well. Just can't find good help anymore. Went to replace J560 and while untapping back two wires came out. Several loose. Shop that did bed put it in. I didn't except this. Well fixed now and new connections. Thanks guys. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Glenn - thanks for posting your step by step troubleshooting. If you are in a truck supply some time I think you can buy a brush tool that fits the truck socket and cleans all pins at the same time. "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DQDanny Posted November 4, 2018 Report Share Posted November 4, 2018 oh wow.....anybody have a link for that socket cleaning brush......I spent hours one day with a bitty piece of fingernail emery board & small screwdriver.....very tedious & it was only a moderate cleaning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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