Cummins Golf Cart Batteries

LindaH · June 15, 2018

We're looking to replace our two batteries before we head south this fall, so I'm in the process of doing some research.

Yesterday we went by the local Cummins service center to pick up Onan oil and air filter for our generator. While there, I noticed a brochure for Cummins batteries. We're looking at their Golf/RV battery CGC2200P with the following specs:

AH = 220
RC = 445
Voltage = 6
Length = 10.38
Width = 7.19
Height = 10.88
Weight = Unknown

I had to look up "RC" as I wasn't familiar with it...it's Reserve Capacity, or the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 degrees F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5. Y'all probably already knew that! I've searched for more information on the Internet, but haven't been able to come up with anything other than these batteries may be rebranded Brammo batteries, which Cummins acquired sometime last year.

In comparing these batteries with the Trojan T-105, they appear to be very similar:

AH = 225 (20-hour rate)
Capacity Minutes = 447 (@ 25 amps)
Voltage = 6
Length = 10.30
Width = 7.13
Height = 11.15
Weight = 62#

The Cummins battery costs $134. A quick Internet search for the Trojans shows a price of around $141, but I'm sure there would be shipping charges. I haven't checked yet to find out if they're available locally or at what price.

Anyone familiar with the Cummins battery? From the information above, do you think they would be equivalent to the Trojans?

Yarome · June 15, 2018

Brammo is fairly new to market in GC's and not their original forte so I don't have much to say pro or con. Their "floor clearance"... the distance between the bottom of the battery case and the end of the lead plates... is fairly thin. Where we tow little mini earthquakes that's not especially a good thing, but not all that much different than the box store batteries. I don't see any information on what type of plates they are using or how they are configured.

For the price... I would take a pass. T-105's can be had for the same or, with a little shopping, in the $110-$125 range. You might call around to farm implement/tractor or marine stores in your local area, but be aware of the mfg dates. You're looking for batteries mfg. in the past 6 months and produced in the same month as each other. Most places will try to give you the oldest they have in stock so "ask". 😉

Personally, my decicion would be between box store (to save a little money) or Trojan's over taking a chance on "unknowns" at a premium price... or... if they wanna give you those Cummins for say... $105, there might be a convenience factor for you that makes them worth taking em for a spin.

From what I understand though, you rely on your batteries pretty heavily. If it's in the budget, I would stay with the Trojans.

Al F · June 15, 2018

If you are willing to pay close attention to your batteries, i.e. make sure you don't discharge them below 50% (25%, i.e. 75% full much better for long life), most always keep them charged to 100%, with an excellent solar system, then the Trojans may be the ticket for you. With good care they many last 6-8 years. Other wise go to Costco or Sam's Club and for $85-$95 you can get a very serviceable golf cart battery which will last you 4-6 years as long as you don't abuse it.

It is just as easy to destroy a Trojan as it is a big box golf cart battery. Take it to 80% discharged or lower and they don't last very long.

LindaH · June 16, 2018

Thanks for the information Yarome and Al. We've discussed it further and have decided to go with the Trojans. While the Cummins may be a perfectly fine battery, and I know we can go to Costco to get less expensive golf cart batteries, the Trojans are the gold standard as far as golf cart batteries go.

We do take very good care of our batteries...as Yarome said, we rely extensively on them since we spend most of our time boondocking. We never let them go below 12.0 as shown on the Blue Sky Solar Boost 3000i controller we have...if it gets down that low we turn on the generator.

One of the main reasons we want new batteries is that our current batteries (AGM) are only 80 amp hour batteries (my bad...I ordered the wrong batteries). We'd go with AGM again, except we don't want to spend the money.

21 hours ago, Yarome said:

...but be aware of the mfg dates. You're looking for batteries mfg. in the past 6 months and produced in the same month as each other. Most places will try to give you the oldest they have in stock so "ask".

Thanks for this information, Yarome. It's something I hadn't thought of.

LindaH · June 16, 2018

Oh, another question:

Trojan T-105's come with different terminal types. I'm thinking, what with the solar stuff that has to be added to the batteries (and we also have a portable solar panel), we'd want EHPT high profile terminal (#2 shown at the website below). Would that be correct?

https://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-105/

Yarome · June 16, 2018

Not like you folks haven't "been around the block" and are pretty savy. As much as you rely on your bank you'll be able to work a lot more bang for your buck out of a set of Trojans. It's just the extra 40 bones a pop that stings a little out of the gate. 😉

EH's are a bit easier to work with if you have the clearance for them. I generally use an insulated battery post to make all of my load connections so the battery terminal itself doesn't get so "busy".

LindaH · June 16, 2018

1 hour ago, Yarome said:

EH's are a bit easier to work with if you have the clearance for them. I generally use an insulated battery post to make all of my load connections so the battery terminal itself doesn't get so "busy".

Good comment about the clearance...I *think* we do, but we'll have to measure first.

Are the insulated battery posts a replacement for the ones that come with the battery, or in addition to? From the comments I read on the Amazon site and your comment, above, it sounds like it's in addition to, but I'm not clear on how everything would go together...that's way above my pay grade!

Lou Schneider · June 16, 2018

The insulated battery post is mounted away from the battery fumes. You move all of the wires connected to the battery terminal to the remote post, then take a single jumper wire to the battery. Repeat for the opposite battery terminal.

This makes for a neater looking installation, lessens the jumble of wires around the top of the battery so it's easier to get to the caps to check the water levels and reduces the number of connections within the battery's acid spray zone.

Yarome · June 16, 2018

Correct. In addition to... giving you a "primary" connection point on the battery and a "secondary" connection point for loads.

It's not a necessity... it just helps "clean up" the install and usually helps to have better connections (minimal resistance) directly to the battery terminal for your "heavy" in/out connections without stacking a bunch of various sized cable connectors one on top of the other.

I like to spray seal my battery posts once my "heavy" connections are made. As I may need to add a low load connection... or disconnect something for maintenance... it's easier to do it on a secondary terminal post and leave the sealed battery terminal connections undisturbed. It also allows for maintenance tasks on "peripherals" without having to disconnect your battery bank from the entire system.

The step up from a single terminal post would be a bus bar or distribution block. But that's not a necessity either.

Yarome · June 16, 2018

10 minutes ago, Lou Schneider said:

The insulated battery post is mounted away from the battery fumes. You move all of the wires connected to the battery terminal to the remote post, then take a single jumper wire to the battery.

He beat me to it. 😉