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deep cycle battery maintenance


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12 minutes ago, JimK said:

jcussen, thanks for posting that link.  I thought it was pretty thorough.

It seems the big issue is cost.  The Trojan 105 seems to be a quality battery that should last as long as a quality AGM battery and at well less than half the cost of an AGM.

 I did take a look at the difference in capacity and found them to be the same.  I guess that is no surprise since the basic chemistry is the same.  Two Trojan 105 batteries would weigh 130 pounds and have a capacity of 225 AH, hence 1.7 AH per pound.  My two Lifeline batteries weigh 180 pounds with a capacity of 300 AH, hence also 1.7 AH per pound. 

Agree, kind of like the "you get what you pay for" type of statement. When talking about wet cell/agm batteries more weight is better.  Hard to believe that a 100 pound battery could out perform a 160 pound battery, Of course lithiums are a different fish. I also now have 4 lifeline 8d's and am happy with them.

Foretravel 40ft tag 500hp Cummins ISM  1455 watts on the roof, 600 a/h's lithium in the basement.

 

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7 hours ago, Yarome said:

...........  Why pay more than twice the price just because you have to keep an eye on water levels? It's really not any more different/difficult that checking your vehicles fuild levels that are likely checked "much" more frequently than a battery banks.

Don't make "good sense"... unless you need the advantages or don't mind paying more for convenience....

I do like the no maintenance and other advantages of AGM batteries, but I have another reason for using them.  I have a small NovaKool compressor refrigerator and my wife uses a CPAP.  We have 2 solar panels but need all the battery I can fit into my battery compartment.  The compartment was designed for a couple of group 27 batteries which would provide about 180 AH.  I removed the slide out tray and was able to barely fit in a couple of larger AGM batteries for a total of 300 AH.  Now it would be extremely difficult to pull out the batteries for maintenance.  In fact after 8 years I replaced the batteries and had to use a couple of ladders and heavy boards to support the batteries as I pulled them in and out of the compartment.  Even that was difficult.

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40 minutes ago, JimK said:

Now it would be extremely difficult to pull out the batteries for maintenance. 

A situation like that you could also install a watering system on flooded wet cells. No need to have battery top access... just a few pumps of a bulb pump and your batteries automatically fill to optimal levels.

Just for future reference if you ever need to replace your AGM's.

I carry AGM's myself (this go around), but I live off solar, boondock pretty much exclusively and my battery bank is in my living space. 

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10 hours ago, jcussen said:

.Last year bought O'Reilly 8d 225 amp/hr batteries for $400 each. Good article on whether to change or not.  https://roadslesstraveled.us/wet-cell-vs-agm-batteries-rv-installation-wiring-tips/

jc, I like O Reillys as compared to say Auto Zone or Advanced, they are closer to a REAL auto parts store in my experience.  That cost would equate to $800 for 450 Amp Hours, Four Trojan T-105's for 450 Amp Hours is around $500 but more connections are required...ITS A PERSONS OWN CHOICE...........

The discussion of FLA,,,,,,,,,,,AGM,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sealed,,,,,,,,,,,,,,True Deep Cycle versus Semi Deep Cycle (like RV/Marine sold at Walmart) is like what brand of oil or spark plugs are best. There's no necessarily right or wrong answer, its a matter of budget and needs and maintenance and FREE CHOICE. I currently have FLA and there's no need to toss them and spend more big bucks for AGM or Lithium as long as they perform fine WELL DUH, but I'm still considering AGM in the future.

 Not so much here, but in general there's a lot of mis understanding out there and advertising and hype about batteries in general. Many don't understand Amp Hours  or Starting versus Deep Cycle or Semi Deep Cycle (RV/Marine etc) or Sealed or AGM etc etc.

 While true FLA is higher maintenance, if as person uses (like I do) a quality  Smart 3/4 Stage well regulated and controlled Charger,,,,,,,,,,,,a Smart  Solar Charge Controller,,,,,,,,,,,, (NOTE those Smart devices help prevent overcharging,,,,,,,,,,,,Excessive outgassing or possible Boiling Over over,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Excessive water use),,,,,,,,Uses battery and post/terminal protection products (like spray or coatings etc),,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Squeezes a bulb on a Fill Pro type watering system every month or two,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,  MAINTENANCE JUST ISNT REALLY ALL THAT DIFFICULT I can handle it,  even if a tad more then with AGM (true venting is more of an issue using FLA). In case I suspect a problem I also carry a Load Tester, a Hydrometer, and a Voltmeter. With those tools plus the SOC and Amps and Volts indicator on my charger, I can pretty much be kept aware of my battery condition and take action should any be required, which is rare given all the above....I'm just a believer in regular and preventive maintenance....

 WHAT WAS THE ORIGINAL QUESTION NOW LOL Oh yeah, turn off loads and chargers, pop the caps and look see, add distilled water if necessary

Yall take care now very fun discussion

John T

 

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Good to have a choice. Unfortunately many motorhomes have battery banks in places where watering systems and necessary vents are not possible because of design considerations. As systems get more complex and weight considerations more important, manufacturers are putting the batteries where they can. For example, Foretravel has used only gel cell and agm batteries for over 20 years in order to maximize cargo space, equalize side to side loading, and maintain proper axle capacity. On my present coach, would have to completely remove a 160 lb battery just to see the one under it, and batteries are on centerline so no vent possible. Their thinking is if kept properly charged, the agm and gel cell batteries should last at least 5 years before any attention is required.

Foretravel 40ft tag 500hp Cummins ISM  1455 watts on the roof, 600 a/h's lithium in the basement.

 

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8 hours ago, jcussen said:

 On my present coach, would have to completely remove a 160 lb battery just to see the one under it, 

jc, If there ever was a reason to use AGM NOW THATS A DARN GOOD ONE LOL and if properly charged you may well get OVER 5 years !! Fortunately in my RV I have adequate space so I have choices and options (that's a good thing ya know) so I can choose EITHER   AGM or FLA or even Lithium.

John T

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2 hours ago, Larry Burkett said:

What are your thoughts on Duracell  GC12V batteries? I was looking at them at Sams Club this afternoon.

Not too shabby, considering. True deep cycle. You would likely get a little more bang for your buck going with their GC 6v's though. Don't know what current prices are, but not too long ago the GC12 was around $200 for a 155ah battery. Something like 90lbs or so, IIRC. 2-6v GC's would give you 220ah for around $170-$180ish(?). They weigh in around 70lbs/ea so a bit easier to manage and more AH's for your $. Size may matter though so it's' good to measure your battery compartment to see what'll fit.

The other issue is wiring. With the cost of wiring 2-6v GC's together you'll likely still be just under the $200 mark, but you'll have 65 more AH's to show for it.

On edit: Should add... for a 12v true deep cycle battery... the GC12 is a decent choice and well priced in that class. If that's your best fit, grab em. 😉

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 I never used the Sams Club 12 Volt Deep Cycle, but I had two of the 6 Volt EGC2 (I believe it was, a bit more Amp Hours then the GC2 ??) in my last RV which totaled around 220 or a bit more Amp Hours, a fair amount greater then the 155 AH 12 volt units. But sure more space and connections which may NOT work for everyone. Ya gotta go with what fits and your budget. I don't have any hard core scientific data to back it up, but prefer my Trojans over the Sams Club batteries. I agree with Yarome, that don't sound bad for a 12 Volt Deep Cycle, so if your space requires it,,,,,,,, and its in your budget,,,,,,,,,,,, and YOU choose true Deep Cycle over semi Deep Cycle,,,,, and FLA over AGM, GO FOR IT . Your money your RV your choice......... As said, any Solar is good solar and more Amp Hours is better then less Amp Hours....

 Keep on keepin on

John T  Headed out today for the Escapees Club Escapade in Sedalia Missouri for a fun week yayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy

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7 minutes ago, Rich&Sylvia said:

Best answer right here ^^^

 

Really?  I haven't had a car battery which needed water level maintenance in over 30 years.

Everybody wanna hear the truth, but everybody tell a lie.  Everybody wanna go to Heaven, but nobody want to die.  Albert King

 

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30 minutes ago, chirakawa said:

Really?  I haven't had a car battery which needed water level maintenance in over 30 years.

Me neither, and with size of modern engines and the heat generated in the engine compartment, [if battery in there] you would need to check the levels pretty often .

Foretravel 40ft tag 500hp Cummins ISM  1455 watts on the roof, 600 a/h's lithium in the basement.

 

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12 minutes ago, Sir Traveller said:

.. currently the RV is at a full hookup site, but I will keep it in storage for few months after that, do I have to check water levels while it is in storage as well? if so how often? 

I advise disconnecting your fully charged batteries while in storage.  You only need to worry about water levels if the weather gets real hot.  I also advise getting rid of the acid tubs for AGMs.  You'll wonder why you didn't do this sooner.

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49 minutes ago, Sir Traveller said:

...do I have to check water levels while it is in storage as well? if so how often? 

As long as they aren't being actively charged then no. Fully charge them, disconnect your negative cable and you're good to go. Just be aware that self discharge works out to about 10-15% every 30 days and will depend on ambient temperatures. Cooler temps... the self discharge rate will slow and the opposite as temps climb.

Typically, you'll want to put them back on charge every 2-4 months. Your first go around... check them in 2 months and see where your at then adjust accordingly.

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36 minutes ago, Larry Burkett said:

...as long as the opening is tall enough I am going for the 12v.

Sounds like a plan! Maximizing your amp hour capacity in the space available is an all important consideration. As long as you're sticking with "true" deep cycle (which those are) they should do you just fine. 😉 

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