Mimi827 Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 We turned off the power & gas to our Dometic RM 2652 fridge (2006 Trail Bay). When we got back from vacation we had no power on fridge. Everything else has power. We've ordered 3 & 5 amp fuses from Dyrer. Are there other fuses on the back of the fridge? Does the inside control panel on top with buttons have a fuse?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 It depends. If the refer was replaced at a later date, has had the cooling unit replaced or had the recall kit installed then it's highly likely. IIRC... after 2010-11(?)... I don't remember "exactly", but around that time. If so then you'll have a thermal fuse installed on the rear of your refer. Unless your cooling unit has poor circulation though it shouldn't pop and wouldn't be a "first guess" under the conditions you described. Most likely it's just a blown fuse in the distribution panel or the limit switch needs to be reset. Not knowing for "sure" what year it is... it shouldn't have a fuse on the eye level/upper board but it's likely there is one on the lower control board. Assuming what you mean by "no power" you mean your display is not lighting up... some additionals. If your fuses and 12v supply check out and the display still won't go on: - check the fuse on the lower control board and confirm it is getting 12v. If the display "is" on but still not functional you'll have to go to the rear of your refer: - look for yellow residue on the back near the burner. If there is it could indicate a leak and a failed cooling unit. - if not, check the thermal fuse. It may have a light metal plate cover over it. That's assuming it's a newer than 2010-11 unit or has the recall kit installed. - check for 12V on both sides of the limit switch. If you're not getting 12v on either side then that's a further indication that your thermal fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. - if you have 12v on one side but not the other then it's just the limit switch that's tripped and needs to be reset by pushing the button. If it won't reset then the switch itself may need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 Let me welcome you to the Escapee forums! We will do our very best to help you as much as we are able. Looking at the service manual for this model, I am quite sure that there are no fuses other than the two on the power circuit board. Am I correct to assume that when you say no power to it that you mean it has no panel lights or indications? All of the display power is from the 12V-dc side of the supply and is supplied through the 3a fuse on the power board. The 5a fuse is to the 120V-ac heater that operates if selected in place of the propane. All control functions are powered by 12V no matter what mode you are operating the refrigerator in. Do you have a good multimeter to do some troubleshooting? If so you need to have at least 11V of power to the refrigerator from your RV 12V system. If the batteries are too low it will not operate and it varies just how low that voltage can be before it fails completely. We need more information to be sure but this sounds like a power problem. There is probably a 12V fuse in the power to your refrigerator, typically on the 12V distribution panel fuse section. I would check to be sure that there is 12V power to the terminal block on the wall in the back of the refrigerator where it is connected. I Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted March 14, 2018 Report Share Posted March 14, 2018 28 minutes ago, Kirk Wood said: I am quite sure that there are no fuses other than the two on the power circuit board. Good link and illustration to locate the fuses on the lower circuit board... however... note that the service manual being linked is from 1996. The one in the OP is more around a 2006 (2004-2006~ish). If a newer replacement unit has been installed or if the recall kit was installed then it will also have the thermal fuse on the rear. Should probably note too... in that illustration it shows 2 glass tube fuses but on the newer (than 1996) boards the 5amp is a standard blade type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbillsd Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 If they have a recall device, it cuts all the power to the absorption fridge. I found that out after a monster storm last summer near Bemidji Minnesota. I had to jumper around the recall device for two weeks while it dried out so the magnet would reset it. -Bill - 2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP Freightliner XCR, 400 hp Cummins Toad 2014 Chevy Equinox (DWM) Blog: http://cowlesmountain.com/Travels/ S&B San Diego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 15 hours ago, Yarome said: If a newer replacement unit has been installed or if the recall kit was installed then it will also have the thermal fuse on the rear 6 hours ago, bigbillsd said: If they have a recall device, it cuts all the power to the absorption fridge. I believe that the device they are addressing is from Norcold and isn't on a Dometic, at least we never got any recalls for the Dometic that we owned in that time frame. The one from Norcold was at the bottom of the flue and looked like this. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 5 minutes ago, Kirk Wood said: I believe that the device they are addressing is from Norcold and isn't on a Dometic, at least we never got any recalls for the Dometic that we owned in that time frame. No. Billbigsd seems to be talking about the Norcold with the full box 'n magnet job. "I'm" talking about Dometic... recall 06E-076 & 08E-032. I don't know if the verification site still works. I don't have a serial # handy but you're welcome to try it yourself. It won't tell you if yours has been done already, but it will tell you if it was affected by the recall. Yours is an RM and a 2652 in and around that time period. It's likely included. RM's were "not" exempt from the recall. The recall kit was not a fancy little box. It was a component kit. The easiest way to tell if yours has been done already is if your refer has a thin tin type square sheet of metal covering the lower right corner of your reefer (from the back, of course). The thermal fuse installed as part of the recall kit is located behind it and has a push buttom reset on the thermal fuse body. As indicated early... "push to reset" if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Here ya go... xscapers has the recall pdf on their portion of the escapees website. Likely escapees does too, but once is enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 I just found it and it seems that I had forgotten that Dometic expanded the initial recall from 2003 through some 2006 models so it sure could have one. I can't seem to find any images of the updated equipment though. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted March 15, 2018 Report Share Posted March 15, 2018 Mimi, IF IT TURNS OUT NOT TO BE THE RESET OR RECALLED ISSUE DESCRIBED ABOVE, Yarome has you well covered on the fuse situation, but I just have to ask. Are you sure you're at least getting good full battery voltage TO the main fridge input terminals (and/or the reset) usually where you access it from the outside ?? A simple test lamp and volt meter can confirm that. If not that fuse is located in the 12 volt section of the distribution panel. I have seen those eyebrow panels go bad but not often. Does it have the Gas or Auto etc switches up on the eyebrow panel. I ask this since you mentioned you "turned off power" so I'm wondering if its NOT the reset/recall issue or fuses covered above you at least have power to the unit itself. John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mimi827 Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 John, had a technician look at it. The compressor went out. What we would like to do is get a 8 or 10 cu fridge. We need more fridge space, the 6cf is too small. We have enough room where we can modify to make the fridge fit. Does anyone know if this is possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbillsd Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 Huh? Your model doesn't have a compressor, if someone is telling you that, Run! From what I am reading about the model is its an regular 2 way absorption fridge using heat from Propane or heat from 120v electric heaters to make the Ammonia circulate and cool it. 2006 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40QDP Freightliner XCR, 400 hp Cummins Toad 2014 Chevy Equinox (DWM) Blog: http://cowlesmountain.com/Travels/ S&B San Diego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted April 4, 2018 Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 12 hours ago, Mimi827 said: John, had a technician look at it. The compressor went out. What we would like to do is get a 8 or 10 cu fridge. We need more fridge space, the 6cf is too small. We have enough room where we can modify to make the fridge fit. Does anyone know if this is possible? As the previous post states, a Dometic RM 2652 does not have any compressor and so any RV tech who tells you that yours has failed is not to be trusted! Whatever you do, don't trust the guy who said you have a compressor. I have a copy of the service manual for that refrigerator and have worked on more than one of them. As to modifying the cabinet and installing a larger refrigerator, it probably could be done but will require modification of your cabinets and will depend on what is in the space around the present refrigerator. Whatever you do, get another tech to look at your RV before you get ripped off! Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mimi827 Posted April 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2018 OMG! You all are so amazing!!! I showed my husband the reply. I stand to be corrected, it's not the compressor According to my husband, the tech said,"the yellow powder indicated that the amonina/coolant leaked causing the fridge to power off automatically. That it was fried and needed to be replaced. We will definitely have someone else look at it. Thanks, again for making us aware of a possible scam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 6 hours ago, Mimi827 said: According to my husband, the tech said,"the yellow powder indicated that the amonina/coolant leaked causing the fridge to power off automatically. Now that does make sense. What that means is that the coolant has leaked out of the coils due to a leak. That means that you have two options, replacing the cooling unit, which can be done or replacing the entire refrigerator. With the refrigerator now 12 years old and if you are not willing/able to replace the cooling unit yourself, then I would go with a new one. But I would not be willing to let just any RV shop modify the cabinets to install a larger refrigerator. There could be structural problems in making such a modification so I would want to make sure that we had the right people doing that. Pretty much any RV shop or mobile tech should be able to replace your existing one with a unit of the same size. If you are interested, the refrigerant in your refrigerator is made up of a mixture of distilled water, ammonia, and the yellow stuff which is a rust inhibiting chemical. Over time the coils do begin to leak and lose the liquid, the over temperature device then shuts your refrigerator off because the boiler will overheat without enough liquid passing through it. That yellow power is one of the clear indications that your cooling unit has sprung a leak and failed. It isn't the only way that one can fail but it is the most common way. Good travelin !...............KirkFull-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted April 5, 2018 Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 On 4/3/2018 at 8:06 PM, Mimi827 said: John, had a technician look at it. The compressor went out. What we would like to do is get a 8 or 10 cu fridge. We need more fridge space, the 6cf is too small. We have enough room where we can modify to make the fridge fit. Does anyone know if this is possible? Mimi, thanks for the updates, a compressor YEAH RIGHT LOL. YES if you have enough physical space PLUS a new oversized fridge can be properly vented (that's a critical important issue that MUST be correct) PLUS all critical clearances satisfied and gas and electric supplied,,,,,,,,,, Its possible to install a new I assume LP Gas/Electric Absorption fridge. Since you mentioned you wanted a bigger unit anyway, I wont get into the pros and cons of repairing your unit and/or replacing its cooling unit which in one option, nor the option of a 120 VAC compressor type fridge. John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mimi827 Posted April 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2018 Thank you, to everyone!! For your answers. We have looked at replacing the cooling unit and installation cost vs buying a new one. It seems it's more cost effective to purchase a new one. Again, appreciate all the amazing responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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