Delphi male 4 circuit connector

[chief916]

Still working on installing my Hayes brake controller.  Does anybody have an idea as to where I can find a male 4 way connector so that I can plug directly into the Delphi connector that was used on my old Maxbrake controller.  Somebody has to make one but I've searched for like a week and still no luck.  I have the 4 way male and female connectors that I have to crimp pins on to the wires but that would in tale cutting off the female maxbrake plug on my harness.  I would prefer not to do that.  I'm still going to continue to look for a male connector but if push comes to shove....I will pin up the after market connectors.  Would really appreciate any advise from all those electric/aviation type experts out there.

Thanks

Ben

[rickeieio]

Are you talking about a Weatherpak connector? Same style as the original plug for the Volvo tractor tail lights. If so, I have some, but they cam be found at a John Deere dealer.  I believe GM used them too.

[noteven]

Have a look on Digi-Key website 

[noteven]

And maybe here you could find one 

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/3045-P.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAiAoNTUBRBUEiwAWje2lkaLOGdZQI2EJaHKre0RV2s_aabjmuH2BhVWkX4FfSaxgQa6aO3FixoCZdMQAvD_BwE

[chief916]

2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Are you talking about a Weatherpak connector? Same style as the original plug for the Volvo tractor tail lights. If so, I have some, but they cam be found at a John Deere dealer.  I believe GM used them too.

No I have those connector's already.  I want to use the Delphi connector that was used on my maxbrake controller which uses a female connector...I need to find a male connector that can be butt connected to the Hayes controller wires so I can just snap it right in like when I was using the Maxbrake.  The Delphi connector that was used on the Maxbrake is wired just like the Hayes brake controller.  I'm just trying to keep it simple.

Thank you for your input .  I'm sure that eventually I may find the male connector.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Chief, if you are going to be at the ECR, I'm sure that David Dixon or myself will have the connector you need. One of us should be able to pin the wires and put them into the connector. you might have to jury rig something up in the meantime to get there though. Failing that, post up a pic of the exact connector you have and I will see if I have one. If I do, it will be headed your way.

[Scrap]

I'm pretty sure they only make the male as a device (AKA header) connector, which isn't what you need.  The terminals have the legs that come down and solder to a board.  I suppose a guy could smash them flat and solder/heat shrink to them but that's kind of a lot of work.

Were me I would not cut the female end off but would de-pin it so you have the connector housing off but still use the factory pins & crimps as-is.  Then click them into an unsealed MP280 6-way and install TPA's.  Then on the controller pigtail you crimp new terminals and install the mating 6-way and TPA's.  Then click em together and be sure to install CPA.  Don't use the standard unsealed 4-way MP 280 as it is tangless and your existing crimped pins won't fit.  It'll have to be 6-way and above.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

13 hours ago, Scrap said:

I'm pretty sure they only make the male as a device (AKA header) connector, which isn't what you need.  The terminals have the legs that come down and solder to a board.  I suppose a guy could smash them flat and solder/heat shrink to them but that's kind of a lot of work.

Were me I would not cut the female end off but would de-pin it so you have the connector housing off but still use the factory pins & crimps as-is.  Then click them into an unsealed MP280 6-way and install TPA's.  Then on the controller pigtail you crimp new terminals and install the mating 6-way and TPA's.  Then click em together and be sure to install CPA.  Don't use the standard unsealed 4-way MP 280 as it is tangless and your existing crimped pins won't fit.  It'll have to be 6-way and above.

And that is why he is making the big bucks and I still use electrical tape

[chief916]

16 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

Chief, if you are going to be at the ECR, I'm sure that David Dixon or myself will have the connector you need. One of us should be able to pin the wires and put them into the connector. you might have to jury rig something up in the meantime to get there though. Failing that, post up a pic of the exact connector you have and I will see if I have one. If I do, it will be headed your way.

Sir, I have a pix of the connector but I don't know how to send it to you.  What must I do to get it posted here?

[chief916]

16 hours ago, Scrap said:

I'm pretty sure they only make the male as a device (AKA header) connector, which isn't what you need.  The terminals have the legs that come down and solder to a board.  I suppose a guy could smash them flat and solder/heat shrink to them but that's kind of a lot of work.

Were me I would not cut the female end off but would de-pin it so you have the connector housing off but still use the factory pins & crimps as-is.  Then click them into an unsealed MP280 6-way and install TPA's.  Then on the controller pigtail you crimp new terminals and install the mating 6-way and TPA's.  Then click em together and be sure to install CPA.  Don't use the standard unsealed 4-way MP 280 as it is tangless and your existing crimped pins won't fit.  It'll have to be 6-way and above.

Scrap, could I use a 280 4way if I decide to remove the factory plug and repin everything ie: male pins on the controller side and female pins on cable side?  Not being savy with electronics/Avi background...not really sure about what TPA and CPA mean.

[DesertMiner]

Try this to post pictures......

 

[Scrap]

280 4 way won't work with your existing pins as yours are tanged and it is tangless.   They won't lock in.   I suppose a guy could cut the tangs off tho and it would work.  6 way that uses your existing tanged pins but left with two open cavities is fine as well.   It is done all the time. The CPA is a wedge put through the locking tab that double locks the two sides together.   It is used for 280's on braking/safety systems.  I'll put up a part list later tonight. 

[noteven]

I used crimped on connectors ...

I know I know...they should have been soldered 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Not even,

I think that crimped on connectors are actually preferred over soldered.

[chief916]

6 hours ago, chief916 said:

Sir, I have a pix of the connector but I don't know how to send it to you.  What must I do to get it posted here?

Georgia here's what I have got.  

C

[chief916]

6 hours ago, chief916 said:

Scrap, could I use a 280 4way if I decide to remove the factory plug and repin everything ie: male pins on the controller side and female pins on cable side?  Not being savy with electronics/Avi background...not really sure about what TPA and CPA mean.

Scrap here is what I was thinking about using.  Can this work?  

[chief916]

Thanks to my DW for showing me how to post pix.......and she's still mad at me cause I'm a brick when it comes to cell phones and puters.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Chief, I think you need to go to the 6 way like scrap mentioned. I think I have some on my truck but it is pouring down rain right no and will be for the next day or so. More than likely, scrap will give you a complete list of things to order to make it do what you want it to. That young man is pretty sharp on wiring  and yes, I can call him that at my age, anyone under 40 seems young

 

[chief916]

Amen to that.

 

[jkennell]

Chief:

What you have there is a Delphi p/n 12052856.  It is a Metripack 280 unsealed "Device Connection" plug.  As stated, the other half does not exist.   If I'm reading my catalog right, it uses unsealed tang terminals such as p/n 12066214, not tangless.  Difficult to find a plug to replace it that will have a match.

I've run into "device connection" plugs before with no match.  The best thing to do is replace it with a common plug.  (I prefer the Deutsch DT series, but Weather Pack work fine too.)  If you are concerned about wanting to use that plug again in the future--do it like so:   Don't cut the wires right off the back of the plug...leave about 3" of wire.  Install a new plug onto the end of the original wiring harness.  Then install a mating plug 1) on the end of the 3", making it into an adapter.  2) onto your new Hayes wiring.   Now you can plug in the "adapter", or your new wiring.   That allows your to either plug in your new controller, or your old MaxBrake...either one.

[chief916]

3 hours ago, jkennell said:

Chief:

What you have there is a Delphi p/n 12052856.  It is a Metripack 280 unsealed "Device Connection" plug.  As stated, the other half does not exist.   If I'm reading my catalog right, it uses unsealed tang terminals such as p/n 12066214, not tangless.  Difficult to find a plug to replace it that will have a match.

I've run into "device connection" plugs before with no match.  The best thing to do is replace it with a common plug.  (I prefer the Deutsch DT series, but Weather Pack work fine too.)  If you are concerned about wanting to use that plug again in the future--do it like so:   Don't cut the wires right off the back of the plug...leave about 3" of wire.  Install a new plug onto the end of the original wiring harness.  Then install a mating plug 1) on the end of the 3", making it into an adapter.  2) onto your new Hayes wiring.   Now you can plug in the "adapter", or your new wiring.   That allows your to either plug in your new controller, or your old MaxBrake...either one.

That sounds great.  First thing in the a.m. I will be jumping on it.  I didn't even think about doing something like that.  Thank you Sir.