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Best Heated Water Hose


masterdrago
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I'm interested in getting one of those water hook up hoses for when parked at home. I'll need a 25 footer. Looking around, I see a huge number, especially on AMZN. They are all expensive and since there are so many, I don't want to waste my coin on some POS, low quality brand. Appears to be many Camco brand. It might be a lot cheaper to make my own using hardware store technology (heat tape & one of the 25 footers I already have).  Can I get recommendations from the experienced crowd here?

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I know you know this probably, but that still feels like a risk if you are somewhere that gets very cold at all.  Can you just use a regular hose and fill your fresh water tank when you need it?  I just don't see how (without some serious insulating and fabrication) you could keep that water from freezing (again, assuming you are somewhere that gets significantly cold.

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Our is the blue Camco 25' I believe. It worked great from living in Bryce Canyon N.P. for several months from early april at temps -10 or so to a very long cold winter in Maine that would see very little direct sun and night time temps regularly -15 with day time temps in the single digits for weeks at a time and our water lines never froze up. its 3yrs old and still working great.

 

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2 minutes ago, jpcoll01 said:

<snip> assuming you are somewhere that gets significantly cold.

significantly cold???  Southeast Texas. I've seen it 5 degrees here back on Dec. 23, '89 then followed by several days of low double digits. I know because I was repairing water softeners in those day and folks did not do enough to protect the attendant plumbing.  Many days here north of Lake Conroe we see teens and low 20s. I know if I decide to keep the water on in our 5r here at home during winter, I'll need to run the furnace and protect the pipes in the basement plumbing area. Just looking for the best option to keep a water flow available in the 5r. Keeping the freshwater tank filled is an option.

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We've had our FW hose freeze in Arizona when the temps dropped to 26 one night. The advice was leave a faucet dripping to keep water moving in the hose which we did for the following night Then we went to Home depot and bought some black rubber pipe insulation and wrapped the hose with it. That solved the problem. 

BUT it doesn't often get below freezing in Casa Grande, may twice a year. It's certainly not sustained temperatures way below freezing. If it got that cold I'd be heading further South!

Bnb

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Ours is the Camco brand (don't remember how long) and has been used regularly the past three winters. It has done its job and has never frozen with nighttime lows down to the single digits with highs in the 20s. I'm careful to insulate and protect the park's water standpipe and valve if they have not done so - a heated hose won't do any good if the supply to it is frozen.

Rob

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I have a regular 25' hose , a 50' heat tape with auto on/off @ 37° and enough sections of 3/4" foam pipe insulation . 

I simply sting the tape straight along the hose after a few wraps around the feed faucet with the leftover length in the water bay in such a way that no tape touches another piece of the tape . Then plugged in . The sections of insulation get put around the outside hose with the tape opposite the slit in the foam , from the feed faucet to the entry point of the bay . Some times , when there are bends to deal with or things don't want to lay and stay right , I'll wrap string around the insulation to keep every thing snugly in place . 

That set up has gotten us through Winters in mid Alabama with temps well below freezing , with some ice and snow thrown in . Never a frozen hose/pipe . We left cabinet doors open a bit so any inside pipes got some heat .

Very inexpensive and doesn't take long to set up . 

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My experience has been with heat tape run straight along the regular hose and taped in place with electrical tape about every foot give or take then coverd with the foam insulation over it.  It has served me well but I am alway concerned with the power grid going down for long. Not highly likly but it does happen especially in areas where trees can come down on power lines.  Not trying to scare just helping you consider things.

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Does the heated hose need to also be covered w/the foam in more extreme climates?

My suggestion is to not fill the tank more than3/4 full in some of the colder areas and it would be good to valve off the  the tank and pump your lines as dry as you reasonably can should you interior heat for what looks to be an extended time.

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Took my standard 25' white hose, used 25' of heat tape and zip tied it! Then used the foam insulation tubing and taped it with vinyl 3M tape. Total cost under $60.00. just replaced it after 4 years of use this past October with the same heat tape!

  Let your faucet run slowly below 25 degrees, if not underpinned use your furnace to prevent inside lines from freezing!  Others mileage may vary :P:D

Edited by Pieere
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2 hours ago, TXiceman said:

With the little freezing weather we get in Houston area for the winter, we just fill the fresh water tank and disconnect the water hose for a couple of days.  We are full time and do not want to tote around the foam and all to insulate the hose.

Ken

LOL ... That extra 1 pound of weight could present a problem for sure . As for the room it takes , there are places out of the way . 

But , It's your choice , no doubt . ;)

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Pat and Pete, it is the volume the insulated hose takes up on the storage bays, not the little weight.

Also, Kirk, you need to add that many RVs have a bathroom sink connected to the black tank.  We have seen a couple of people overflow the sink due to filling the black tank.  Make sure the faucet that runs is connected to a tank that is ope to the sewer.

Ken

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Another heads up thanks to my neighbor at  presents bad luck.  Make sure your drain hose stays open with no blockages. He had a tray set up for the hose with a decent downslope. In the wind a small section blew off and created a P-trap that eventually froze and caused a blockage and a big headache.

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Along with our camco heated hose, we used heat tape on the water supply stand pipe and 3/4 inch insulation on both pipe and hose and a weather proof travel bag ( I think it was a golf clubs traveling bag) picked it up at goodwill store, placed over the water supply stand pipe. Thaat was in Bryce Canyon. In Maine, I put the Camco heated water supply line and the waste line 1" ( I used a macerator pump in this situation) Through a scheadule 40 piece of pvc. ( That was buried under several foot of snow for months) This Pvc sleeve ran directly from our 5er ( Cedar Creek ) to A heated building were the water supply was located and sewer conntection. ( a business we have) As for worries about Power loss, we plugged all heated lines into the 5er and was backed up by the generator. We had two 100 gallon tanks dedicated to the 5er heat, oil filled radiator in the basement compartment along with electric ceramic heaters on the inside just in case propane furnace bit the dust. ( it never did) I know, I know, we needed to head south. And we had been for several years, but sometimes life throws you a big curve ball and its back to the frozen tundra you swore to not endure again and have at it. Oh yeah, Bryce Canyon was by choice and we loved it. Maine we love, but not in the winter and not by choice for that season.

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Something else I have to mention, Its not all cup cakes and ice cream living like this. You must use a snow rake constantly too keep the snow from building on the slide toppers and the roof and shovel the snow from building up against the rig. Propane and electric use was off the charts. Good news was as the season went on we were 4ft or more higher off the ground when using the snow rake to remove the snow from the roof. :o

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I recently purchased a 100 foot Camco heated hose for the FIL, and when it came, it was the Pirit brand.  I would bet that the Camco hose is just a rebranded Pirit hose.  If you purchase one of these, regardless of how it's branded, Do not cut the tie-wraps holding the device against the hose, the orange thing with the black round thing against the RV end of the hose.  That is the thermostat that turns on the heat element when the temp gets down to 45 degrees, and it must remain in contact with the surface of the hose.  We have had a 25 foot Pirit for over four years now and it has been excellent, never froze no matter how cold it got.  They are design tested to -40 degrees without any other cover.

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Things are never as simple as they may seem on the surface so I'll give  my slant on this having done it both ways.  I tried cheaping out with the heated tape.

It needs to be in contact  with the water hose to do any good, also space the loops or wraps about every 12".  So here are the possible issues.

  • It may be cold where you are so where do you plan to flatten a cold hose out to do this ....in the RV?  Sure, water and crud all over the floor.  I pitched mine in the shower for a couple of hrs then hosed it off and wiped it with a shop rag.  Even then there were blobs of water on the floor.  Or, maybe sneak into the RV laundry room early or late before people come in??
  • Your water hose may be slightly longer or shorter than the heat tape so the wraps will need adjusting so there is enough tape left over to wrap the metal water supply end and if possible try to get a wrap around the RV intake...that won't be easy. 
  • All the wraps need to be taped or velcroed to the water hose to maintain contact.
  • Remember wrapping the hose needs to be done when it is straight and dry
  • If getting adequate heating to the water supply end is a problem, get a plastic tub or container, notch out the side and flip it over to cover the hose ground fitting.  Get a cheap heat bulb, and corded receptacle, plug into your power post and that takes care of that end.
  • The RV end.....that's a plain PITA.  Try the insulating pipe noodles or wrap with pink insulation then wrap with plastic.....Just thinking.

Then you can go with the Camco or some other heated water hose...206$ US.

  • This hose comes with BOTH ends female so you need to get  threaded  adapter from the heated hose end to the RV end.  Make sure it is metal, not plastic. Plastic won't conduct  the heat from the heated hose to the metal rv intake.
  • Make sure you get the same thread as the hose.    There is hose thread and pipe thread.  My old adapter  was half and half and was wondering why one end wouldn't screw in.
  • Follow the instructions.
  • Unpack, straighten it out and pull slightly tite to take out the loops.  This can be done inside the trailer with no fuss where it is warm.
  • Connect to the water supply and the other end to the trailer, Push the heavy rubber shields on the hose ends  out over the adjacent metal fittings, plug it in and that's it.

The metal ends on the heated  water hose will keep both the intake and RV connections warm to the touch.

To sum up, bite the bullet and get the heated hose.

 

A Home depot or RV parts supply or a water filter store probably has them unless they are out of stock.

Fortunately, I'm in Victoria BC where it is 50f ish while the rest of the country is in a deep freeze.

 

Edited by rdickinson
typo
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