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Parking and trailer air valve fix for air leak


Padraic

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Hi guys, attached is my truck air valve with the air leak at the supply line. Where would be the best place/price to get a replacement? Can the push in fitting replaceable or repair kit? I recalled someone mentioned O ring in truck air fitting. Any O ring in these valves? Appreciate any information or link.

BrakeAirValve.jpg

BrakeAirValveModel.jpg

Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed
Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002
Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels
 

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Try Truck Pro for replacement.  Cost about $275.  You can buy a rebuild kit ($30) or replace all of the O rings in the push in connectors and that may solve your problems.  There have been extensive discussions on the forum recently on how to do both.  Use the search feature above to search this forum and they should come up.  Will see if I can find some links later.  Would try the O rings first.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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 If it is where the supply line enters the body. Then yes there should be an o'ring in there that can be replaced.

 If you have not taken a fitting apart yet, I would suggest you take one apart that is not in the system. That is to see how they come apart. Do that before you try to take one apart in a critical location.

 Now the other thing to correct is the air line itself. It probably has compressed where the old o'ring has been squeezing it and it needs to be trimmed back. I now try to trim them back almost to the correct size. That little narrow spot I'll help with the airline going in easier than if the line is cut at the true size.

 Also is there enough airline free to cut the line back to a good spot. That line may have a new nickname before you are finished.

 

 Just my thoughts,.   Vern

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Just bought one at Volvo in Auburndale Fl for $260. 

Asked for shop rate and the parts guy dropped price a bunch. He said we a bit of room on these. Lol

Sometimes you just have to ask. 

(He knew I’m just private no shop) 🤓

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

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Thanks, I have another thread on the T push in connector replacement (that service the air brake gauge) air leak. I bought the replacement and put it in. Not sure it is 100% fix, but it is better. It is hard to tell how good that being fix while the brake push in valve is also leaking.

The first T connector leak topic. The Volvo dealer part clerk was no help, they didn't stock any T connectors. He insisted there is nothing to repair. I went to the service department and he was helpful, directed me to a local connector shop and they have one for $25, I bought it and put it in.

So most of the local shop (dealer and connector shop) told me nothing to repair. I appreciate the knowledge of this forum exceeded these "pro". My next action is cut some open and learn the inside.

The 2nd air leak - brake valve. The part and price are all over the internet from $100 to $300. Some claim OEM and some are aftermarket. Not sure what all that means. If I can find a repair kit, that would be the best. I would need to pull the air connector apart understand from others previous posts. Thanks. 

Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed
Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002
Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels
 

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I found the links (Google found more externally) and the part numbers, thanks. So the push-in connector can be "fix", great. Now, I need to order some O ring/collar and practice.

To document, for future reference. I have four air leaks location behind the dash. To take out the front part of the dash, I took off the top of the fuse cover to see how they to take the dash apart. After a few obvious screws out, right half of the dash was loose. The part where the center vent, radio, Volvo status display was mounted on. The left side (toward driver side) was bolted behind the Brake-Push-Valve cover.

At the Brake-Push-Valve; It took great effort to take out the push knobs (yellow and red). Mine had the push pin type to anchor the knobs. I used a clamp, small 7mm socket, and M4 machine screw to poke it out. That took two hours with two-person (Wife and I). Once the knobs were out. I use a small flat screwdriver to ply the edge and pop out the cover plate which hides the Brake-Push-Valve and the trolley. That exposes the reminding screws of the dash. Now all the airlines clearly visible and easier to be work on.

Four air leaks behind the dash.

1. Brake-Push-Valves unit, 2. Trailer trolley unit, 3. Air gauge Tee, 4. Axle differential switch.

 

Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed
Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002
Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels
 

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If and air valve can be taken apart 99% of the time just needs o-rings. My 1984 Pete will hold air for a week and suspension a month++. I 've found lots of leaks with kid bubbles in a squirt bottle. The windshield wipers are even air. I enjoy being challenged to find and fix things and save $$$. I don't have the plastic lines and get fittings and hose from Summit Racing. There good advise on a couple old truck sites.

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