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Safe charge current


Chris1992
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Hi I was wondering if someone could help me out again I have already decided what type of batteries to go with help previous has made it clear that 6v deep cycles are better for the intended use has but a question now sprung to Mind I'm going to be using 4x AGM- 6210 connected to get 12v I was wondering what would be the safe max charge current as not to do any damage to the batteries  any advice would be helpfull 

thanks in advance :D

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The 'safe' answer, is to look at the spec's/guidance provided by the 'specific' battery manufacturer you've chosen. Different AGM manufactures, have different guidance on the values for Bulk/Absorb/Float/Equalize(Condition). And if your current charger does not include a battery temperature sensor and compensation to charging values. Add a temp sensor if available, and or, replace the exiting charger with a unit sophisticated enough to include battery temperature compensation... This is a worthwhile investment, if missing in your current setup. 

$.02...

Best of luck to you,

Smitty

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Thank you very much for your input I have looked for a data sheet but can't find anything relating to charging just discharging and the inverter I'm using is a inverter charger combo was hoping to not to get another charger will have to see if I can find another way 

Thanks once again 

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Is this the battery you are looking at?  

http://www.leoch.com/en/product_view.aspx?tid=34&id=70

If it is, according to the chart at the bottom of the page, bulk charging would be at 14.4 volts (approximately at 12 volt).  I’m assuming your inverter charger is programmable?  If not, the desired charging voltage is kind of moot because you will be stuck with whatever setting is in your charger.

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Good deal. I think you'll be much happier with the 6210's.

Leoch's recommendation (in a 12v configuration) is:

@ 20 degrees

14.4-14.7 Bulk (temp. compensated @ -15mA/C)
13.6-13.8 Saturation (temp. compensated @ -10mA/C)

That seems pretty much in line with what we are used to in mainstream AGM's in the U.S. so I don't see why the same strategies wouldn't apply.

I charge mainly off solar so inputing as much current as possible, as quickly as possible, is my goal since solar production hours are limited. Running them "heavy" CAN potentially have an impact on their lifespan, however, higher quality batteries are going to be capable of taking on a higher charge rate with a little more "grace".

If your main charge source is shore power then lightening the charge levels a bit makes sense.

For Leoch's I would tend to go with a little lighter hand.

6210's on solar I would stay right around 14.6v/13.6v. On shore power... I would go with 14.4v/13.4v (that's not a typo.. 13.4v). Just a nice smooth steady saturation bringing them up to full.

Remembering too that you can always "tweak" the charge levels. If they are just coming up too slow on 13.4v... bump it up... but I would start low.

6210 specific specs

Edited by Yarome
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Thanks for the info and yes it is is programmable I did have some ideas of voltages as I found that data and the was thinking of having it like that but will have around 14.6v/13.4v for the 30amp battery to battery charge controller from the vans battery it dose have a solar input but it is pretty pointless in the UK due to lack of good sun maybe i might get one or 2 when the summer comes and the inverter/charger would be at 14.4v/13.4v it's amps max out at 70amp would that  be too much for this size of bank Or are we talking more like 35amps thanks for all the help much appreciated 

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Unless you're connected to shore power a charger with 70amp output is a moot point. Output would be limited by the amount of input. That being said... 70amps would be a bit large. Opinions vary, but ~10% of capacity is a nice even number.  So a 420ah battery bank... a ~40-45amp charger would be "ideal". If charging is typically going to come from your alternator, a modest solar array or portable generator then a 35amp is more than sufficient.

If you already have a 30amp there's really no sense in spending money for another 5amps that it's not likely you'll be able to take advantage of anyway.

Make sense? ;)

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So basically the max input amps should not be more than 10% total cappacity got ya thanks for that thats what i was looking for the inverter has a ups function built in so already have the charger was running shore power/generator though the inverter saves having change over levers so would start the genny if the voltages got low and would continue like normal till I was finished the genny is 5000w/6000w so should cope fine charging the batteries at 50amp total bank size 500ah and running stuff at the same time 

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A 240 volt outlet suggests the generator produces 120/240 volt power.  If so, it will only deliver half it's rated power into a 120 volt load unless it has a switch to configure the output to 120 volts only.  This is because 120 volts only uses half of the windings in a 240 volt generator and you can't combine it with the second half unless it has a switch to put them in phase with each other.

While half power is still sufficient to charge the batteries, It's something  to keep in mind if you plan on using that generator to run the air conditioner(s).

Edited by Lou Schneider
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I called LifeLine on where to set my Inverter Charger and when I ask what the max charge current to use and the Tech said 100 amps if available.  My Magnum puts out 100 amps and I have had no problems in my first season on the batteries.  I have a 600 amp hour lifeline pack consisting of 4 six volt batteries in series/parallel configuration.  I would call the manufacturer and get the straight answer to the charging parameters.  They will have the latest information available for your batteries.

Edited by sundancer268
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17 hours ago, Chris1992 said:

It does have 110 outlets but that only for job site work tools  

Chris, ifffffffff ????? a  genset has BOTH 120 and 240 volt outlets I'm in Lou's camp (see his post above) on this one. A 240 volt output winding can possibly be tapped in the dead center such that it's only one-half or 120 volts from EITHER L1 or L2 outer legs to the center tap Neutral. Then if the genset has a floating Neutral its NOT bonded but bonded otherwise. The NEC as I recall (no warranty) allows the use of a portable genset to feed cord and plug connected tools strictly fed from onboard receptacles with no connection to a grounding electrode.  I agree with Yarome's concept that a 5000 watt 240 volt genset would have in theory a 5000/240 = 20.83 amp rating.

John T  Live from the Florida Flywheelers Antique Tractor Show in Ft Meade Florida

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Thanks for the input but the I don't intend to use the 110v system just the 240v system  although I'm a bit lost as to weather your saying it will work or won't? 

And the rules differ some what about power and safety in the UK 

Am I correct in stating that in the US you don't have fused plugs ? 

Edited by Chris1992
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1 hour ago, Chris1992 said:

although I'm a bit lost as to weather your saying it will work or won't? 

Sure a 240 volt genset will work to power your 240 volt tools and appliances.

 

1 hour ago, Chris1992 said:

Am I correct in stating that in the US you don't have fused plugs ?

In typical distribution its the branch circuit that feeds RECEPTACLES or other such loads that has overcurrent protection (fuses or circuit breakers) although you do find some PLUGS with fuses built in for protection.

Sounds like you have it all under control no problems 

Nice chatting with you

John T

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