Still a ac dilemma!

Just Don · January 2, 2018

Still a ac dilemma!
Had coach since March 2017
Okay I replaced unit #1 the motor burnt out in September 2017 had a royal of a time getting er done..
Okay just this last month unit #2 compressor went out I get to replace it....
Okay I found info showing #2 went out in April 7th 2016 I know a possible warranty claim..
But what I'M wondering what is going on for this all to happen. 3 a.c.'s in less than a year!
I'd love to know why the one went out in April 2016.. Some one said it might be low voltage, but I have
a Progressive EMS-LCHW50 built in so this should prevent this correct?
I guess I'll call the company and see I can't make out what the manual says.. This a.c. thing is just weird

Thanks for your help.

Yarome · January 2, 2018

Well... without "hands on" it's really impossible to offer much help, however, from what you're describing I would lean toward the issue being heat related and possibly some maintanence issues (?).

You mentioned that you had a motor burn out and compressor failures. One issue may be "feeding" the other in a vicious cycle.

Just from "general knowledge" a leading culprit may be overheating in the motor windings. A weak compressor and/or high temperatures in the compressor discharge area can lead to that. The winding insulation will break down, cause a loss of resistance, create more heat and end in a short to ground or an "open" winding. Along the way it can lead to compressor burnout. The compressor is running in overdrive trying to remove more heat from the system... it can't keep up... compressor temps and pressure build (adding to further break down of the winding insulation)... than "wham". There goes your compressor.

See the cycle? All of that is just "very" general information though.

Keeping your coils free of dirt, grime, mineral buildup, etc. is important... among other issues. It's really difficult to say what the main contributing factor is from the keyboard though.

Your EMS is going to prevent a lot of issue on the power feed going in to your rig, but it won't do much to prevent a number of possible issues that may be occuring "within" your rigs electrical system, mechanically within your AC's or electronically in the AC control boards.

If I were in your shoes, and due to the frequency of "like" failures in such short order I would think it's time to call in a licensed professional (not an RV tech) for a full point diagnostic... front to back.

My thinking being that I can keep shticking on bandaides and crossing my fingers, or get a professional to trace the root cause and get that rectified once and for all. I'm a very DIY type, but at some point you have to stop throwing good money after bad and start investing in a permanent fix.

TXiceman · January 2, 2018

Don, if your Champagne was like mine, the return air grills are really small. I built custom boxes and put in larger filters. With the original filters, I was cleaning the filters almost weekly. Now I can go 3 to 4 weeks.

Restricting the air flow really works the units hard.

The other issue is low voltage. The EMS should catch this though and shut off the power to the trailer I added a Hughes AutoTransformer and no more low voltage problems.

Love to help you with the problem, but these things are are to diagnose long distance. Where are you landed for now?

Ken

Just Don · January 2, 2018

We are in Port O'Connor TX now.

So you made the vents bigger that's interesting..

I'll try to see how to do this I can see where that would be a help regardless..

Just Don · January 2, 2018

10 hours ago, Yarome said:

Well... without "hands on" it's really impossible to offer much help, however, from what you're describing I would lean toward the issue being heat related and possibly some maintanence issues (?).

You mentioned that you had a motor burn out and compressor failures. One issue may be "feeding" the other in a vicious cycle.

Just from "general knowledge" a leading culprit may be overheating in the motor windings. A weak compressor and/or high temperatures in the compressor discharge area can lead to that. The winding insulation will break down, cause a loss of resistance, create more heat and end in a short to ground or an "open" winding. Along the way it can lead to compressor burnout. The compressor is running in overdrive trying to remove more heat from the system... it can't keep up... compressor temps and pressure build (adding to further break down of the winding insulation)... than "wham". There goes your compressor.

See the cycle? All of that is just "very" general information though.

Keeping your coils free of dirt, grime, mineral buildup, etc. is important... among other issues. It's really difficult to say what the main contributing factor is from the keyboard though.

Your EMS is going to prevent a lot of issue on the power feed going in to your rig, but it won't do much to prevent a number of possible issues that may be occuring "within" your rigs electrical system, mechanically within your AC's or electronically in the AC control boards.

If I were in your shoes, and due to the frequency of "like" failures in such short order I would think it's time to call in a licensed professional (not an RV tech) for a full point diagnostic... front to back.

My thinking being that I can keep shticking on bandaides and crossing my fingers, or get a professional to trace the root cause and get that rectified once and for all. I'm a very DIY type, but at some point you have to stop throwing good money after bad and start investing good money into good.

Yes I need to look into that most rv techs I wonder about there knowledge level

TXiceman · January 2, 2018

Don, most RV techs are glorified parts changers and do not know how to diagnosis beyond,,,yep,..... you need a new one.

Have you opened the breaker panel inside the RV and checked that all of the wires are tight.?

Is your power cord on a reel or is it a loose coed and plug?

Ken

Ronbo · January 2, 2018

Don, I am assuming you have a 50amp unit. Your Progressive EMS-LCHW30 is only a 30amp unit so it can’t monitor both legs. Depending on how your unit is wired, you have 1 or 2 ac’s unmonitored. They could be receiving low or high voltage. If you have a bad neutral, they could be receiving up to 250volts. If your EMS goes off, it will only shut off 1 leg. Also if your wires are undersized, you could have low voltage at the ac while it is running. This will not be detected by the EMS. You need to check voltage and amp draw at the ac while it is running.

Just Don · January 2, 2018

ronbo I should have changed that yes it is a 50am.

Okay thanks ronbo hopefully it will warm up soon

Just Don · January 2, 2018

3 hours ago, TXiceman said:

Don, most RV techs are glorified parts changers and do not know how to diagnosis beyond,,,yep,..... you need a new one.

Have you opened the breaker panel inside the RV and checked that all of the wires are tight.?

Is your power cord on a reel or is it a loose coed and plug?

Ken

no I do plan on doing the breaker check

ShannonandWill · January 4, 2018

I have noticed with out Montana High Country, that the living room AC turns off then starts back up within seconds when the fan is set to auto. We had the AC replaced once under warranty and I believe I would be replacing it again if I use auto for the fan. Our bedroom AC works like it should from the same thermostat so I don't know what the problem is. I did find out that, when fan is in auto, it will change between low, medium, and high depending on the temperature differential. The problem is, my living room AC will be running in, let say high, then turn off and back on in less than 10 seconds not running in medium and the compressor kicks on just a couple of seconds after the fan. This short cycling of the compressor is what I believe caused mine to go out. I have since just not used auto for the fan. I select between High, medium or low depending on how hot it is. Everything runs fine then. Just something to look for.