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Battery tester


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Mornin Gary, hey that's a decent price for sure. LIke others I'm not just sure what unit you have. An ammeter measures current flow to see what the battery is delivering and the load is drawing,,,,,,, A Volt meter, of course,  provides an indication of the battery state of charge,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A LOAD TESTER places a heavy current draw on the battery so you can observe voltage drop during such time (related to the CCA Cold Cranking Amps capacity).  Any and/or all of the above in addition to measuring the specific gravity can tell what condition the batteries are in............. Amp Hours is a relevant figure (usually listed on Deep Cycle batteries) indicating a batteries energy storage capacity which us dry campers need, while CCA is often listed on starting batteries.  

 Good monitoring, maintenance and proper charging can add life to those expensive batteries  

Happy New Year,

John T   Live from warm n sunny Avon Park Florida

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On ‎12‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 9:35 AM, oldjohnt said:

Mornin Gary, hey that's a decent price for sure. LIke others I'm not just sure what unit you have. An ammeter measures current flow to see what the battery is delivering and the load is drawing,,,,,,, A Volt meter, of course,  provides an indication of the battery state of charge,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A LOAD TESTER places a heavy current draw on the battery so you can observe voltage drop during such time (related to the CCA Cold Cranking Amps capacity).  Any and/or all of the above in addition to measuring the specific gravity can tell what condition the batteries are in............. Amp Hours is a relevant figure (usually listed on Deep Cycle batteries) indicating a batteries energy storage capacity which us dry campers need, while CCA is often listed on starting batteries.  

 Good monitoring, maintenance and proper charging can add life to those expensive batteries  

Happy New Year,

John T   Live from warm n sunny Avon Park Florida

Its an OEM Tools "battery Analyzer" There's other brands out there. It measures the cranking amps (power). Took three of my big truck batteries to a place to check out. There 950 cranking amps. Puts battery type-cranking amps-liquid-agm-etc. Well one battery had 900+ one 800+ and one about 300. Replaced the 300 junker and trucks never started better. I knew I had to have one. Was running 2 batteries in travel trailer and never new how long could run lights or tv. 750 ca where only good for 3-400. One new battery noe does a bettrer job than 2. Work great at drag race track where guys don't run alternators so can test batteries.

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On 12/30/2017 at 4:46 PM, jerryneal said:

Will it test 6v batteries?

True deep cycle 6v batteries.... not easily. It looks like the analyzer mentioned works off entering a user value for CCA's which suppliers of true deep cycle batteries typically used in RV applications don't publish.

Just doing some general reading on the OEMTools analyzers, I don't exactly "get" how it would be beneficial over current testing methods... or that it would be any more convenient than reading the ah's in/out from your 24/7 battery meter.

I might be missing something, but from what I gather it's not really any different than regular ol $20-$40 load testers on the market. Looks like the OEMTools one will do voltage, CCA's (after a user input variable) and give you a general idea of battery health (after you tell it if your battery is charged or not) in terms of "Good pass/recharge", "recharge & retest", or "bad replace".

Many load testers will perform a load test, kick out a percentage of battery life, voltage, resistance, and CCA's, but with less user input necessary. I guess if I was only interested in CCA's I would rather just read what it's doing rather than having a meter telling me my battery is "good" or "bad" based on what I tell it my CCA's "should" be.

I don't "get it".

Edited by Yarome
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My method of testing "RV house batteries" is, assuming you have a good battery monitor, such as Trimetric, is to be sure the batteries are fully charged, then add a known load and monitor the number of AH's used.  Once the batteries have provided the number of AH's to be about discharged to 25% I let them rest w/o a load for a couple of hours and then measure the voltage and if possible the specific gravity.   If the voltage and/or specific gravity reasonably matches the charge level then I am happy.  If there is a significant difference in the number of AH's used and the resulting charge level, then it time to do some trouble shooting.  

The load I use is a 1500 watt electric space heater and operate it though the inverter.  If you only have a couple hundred AH's of battery then set the space heater on the low heat setting or use a device which uses less power.  Maybe a hair drying on low setting.

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On ‎1‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 12:49 AM, Yarome said:

True deep cycle 6v batteries.... not easily. It looks like the analyzer mentioned works off entering a user value for CCA's which suppliers of true deep cycle batteries typically used in RV applications don't publish.

Just doing some general reading on the OEMTools analyzers, I don't exactly "get" how it would be beneficial over current testing methods... or that it would be any more convenient than reading the ah's in/out from your 24/7 battery meter.

I might be missing something, but from what I gather it's not really any different than regular ol $20-$40 load testers on the market. Looks like the OEMTools one will do voltage, CCA's (after a user input variable) and give you a general idea of battery health (after you tell it if your battery is charged or not) in terms of "Good pass/recharge", "recharge & retest", or "bad replace".

Many load testers will perform a load test, kick out a percentage of battery life, voltage, resistance, and CCA's, but with less user input necessary. I guess if I was only interested in CCA's I would rather just read what it's doing rather than having a meter telling me my battery is "good" or "bad" based on what I tell it my CCA's "should" be.

I don't "get it".

You can have a good battery thats good but no real power (amps not voltage)-------     ca or cold ca is power. Had a $260.00 original looking looking battery in my 1967 GTO. Could leave the lights on for an hr. but had no cranking power. Was a non liquid battery. Called the manufacturer. Run it down to below three volt-may take 2 or 3 times. Got one more summer out of it and never again. If I got a 750 ca batttery I want to know how much if its up to spec's. You Do Need The Cranking Amps for A True Test . I have a 6 volt battery-but no ca amps so can't test.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After reading the post, i thought might be a good tool for the game preserve, since we have almost a dozen batteries. So i purchesed a ANCEL TESTER from Amazon.

We tested six batteries, one that we had purchased  a week ago, and all six tested replace. Over the next few days we put a charge on them,  a retest showed all GOOD.

Final note, a few of the batteries we tested that said REPLACE we retested with a load tester and the batteries showed good, even though ANCEL said replace. So we are returning it.

TRUCKEN.

Edited by Trucken
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