Padraic Posted January 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 I took this air switch apart. There seems to have no repairable part. The airline push connector was one piece type. There is a small circuit board inside and 4 pins electric connection to the instrument panel. Have anyone work on this type of air switch? Do the electric circuit board function more than lights? My concern of this kind of special switch when they are not available/out of production in the future, can I use any air switch to replace it? Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Padraic said: Local Volvo Dealer doesn't stock O-ring, Google-searches found and ordered from a shop at Minnesota What part numbers did you use for the correct o- rings and collets? thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 I was using the list from a previous post here: 1/4 O-ring 85108484 price $0.48 (each) come in a bag of 10 1/4 brass collet 85108476 price $ 2.86 (each) 3/8 O-ring 85108485 price & 0.56 (each) come in a bag of 10 3/8 brass collet 85108477 price $ 3.10 ( each) 1/2 O ring 85108486 1/2 brass collet 85108475 Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 I can't find any push fittings on my Kenworth.... Wait I fibbed the Non OEM Legacy seats have 'em on the controls. One of which leaks... "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 No silicone grease used on the ones that we have replaced. No problem. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 I use a spritz of silicone spray lube. It just makes it slip together easier. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 23 minutes ago, HERO Maker said: No silicone grease used on the ones that we have replaced. No problem. Rocky, We used smidge of Vaseline if you recall since we had no silicone. Petroleum based lubricants are not the best but you need something or risk tearing up the O ring. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 Carl, I forgot about that! Is this an age thing that is happening? IIRC you got a few more on you than I do! Thanks for the correction. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 Rocky, If it was totally age we would have used Ben Gay or Preparation H as the lube.😳 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemergary Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 10 hours ago, noteven said: I can't find any push fittings on my Kenworth.... Not a one found on my Peterbilt. Rubber hoses and flare fittings and there's lots of them. All the air valves can be taken apart. Good cleaning-some wet sand paper and new o-rings. i like old school. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beemergary Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 On 1/19/2018 at 11:14 AM, noteven said: I can't find any push fittings on my Kenworth.... Wait I fibbed the Non OEM Legacy seats have 'em on the controls. One of which leaks... Just got some Legacy Silvers for my Pete 359 and see those plastic lines. My old seats never lost air with rubber and flare fiting. Plastic air controls so no rebuilding um also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 I am still waiting for O-Ring. It supposed coming in tomorrow. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 I installed the O ring install and no leaks in the air trailer and parking valve connectors along with the trolley valve handle 3 connectors. They used 0.5" inches O-rings. Total 9 of them. I used "1/2 O ring Part#85108486" mail order. Unfortunately, the size was not correct after shipped twice. They were much larger than 1/2 inches arrived. So I got some of them from a local shop but they were not silicon material. But I can't wait and has to deal with that in another time. After the 1/2 O-ring, air is up to 100 to 120 PSI; other issue of the air leak is those plastic air switch on the dash. Namely, the Axle lock, Bed down and Commerical hitch slider which I don't have anymore. But they all leak air with loud noise after air up. So I got some used one to replace them, but they were worse and the same leak continue. Sending those back. What would a good replacement for those air switch for a 1998 Volvo? I would try to see the dealer still stock those type of switch. Could I plug it for a temperpory test if I don't need to use the Axle locker and bed air down? The switch has three air connectors plus an electrical plug with 4 terminals. Thanks. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Padraic- You should be able to plug those lines off. My axle interlock is plugged and I don't have any issues. The air leveling dump switch I would try to replace. I love this feature for hitching and unhitching the RV. My truck had the commercial slider hitch control switch that is now plumbed to the Trailersaver hitch. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 I've been tackle some of the same issues. I knew the brake valve was leaking. Replaced all o-rings on the brake valve plus trimmed the ends of the air lines that go into the brake valve. Hooked it all back up and still had a significant leak and appeared it was coming out the side of the brake valve. Decided to take it back and took the brake valve apart. Several misc pieces inside the valve, NOT good! Some say a rebuild kit is available but not really advisable. So I decide the route would be to get a new brake valve. The original part number on the brake valve 8085430 After running this # it shows a new part # 85112212. Started checking around and most were in the $200 or better price range. I then started cross referencing those 2 #'s with Google and came up with Newstar Valve # S13433 that looked to fit the bill and it was only $110 shipped. Got it ordered and was delivered within a couple days of ordering. For some reason my invoice shows Newstar Valve # S13433 and the box shows # EM34560 (not sure why? but it works). It looked the same but noticed the air line hookups were in different locations. So after a sketching a quick diagram I got it back in. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 On 12/23/2017 at 12:02 AM, Padraic said: In the process, of restart my 1988 truck after 6 years of storage. There was a rather big air leak within the dash shown in the attached picture. I can feel air rush out in the area and wiggle the tube can increase or decrease the air feel. From the internet research, "Rescue tape" may work for a short-term fix. Anyone use this tape before, sound like a good thing in the toolbox. HDT has a lot of air leak, I remembered my truck had slow leak 10 years ago. It never holds enough pressure for 2 days resting and less when it's aging. Usually, when the engine started, the pressure build up to 120 PSI. This time, it never passed 65 PSI and alarm go off when using the brake. So could it be the compressor going out? Will find out more after this leak gets patch. Apparently, there are tons of air hose in the dash. All are connected to a push-in connector. Aging is not a good thing for plastic tubing, I guess. Anyone know what this red tube function? I vaguely remember years ago that someone has a color code function of the air tube. The label on the tube seems to be "C1R2" in some of my picture. I will confirm that code again. More research is needed. Have you guys dealt with compressor issue and air leak behind the dash? What is your experience with the repair shop and do it yourself? Thanks. After getting my brake valve replaced I have a leak at the same T. Ran out of time last night. Hoping I can remove the T, replace o-rings, trim air line ends for a fix. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 1 hour ago, CHIEFWAHO said: After getting my brake valve replaced I have a leak at the same T. Ran out of time last night. Hoping I can remove the T, replace o-rings, trim air line ends for a fix. That was my first fix, easy to pull the collar off and replace with 1/4 and 3/8 O-Ring. You have similar issue like mine except my air brake valve was good. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 3 hours ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said: Padraic- You should be able to plug those lines off. My axle interlock is plugged and I don't have any issues. The air leveling dump switch I would try to replace. I love this feature for hitching and unhitching the RV. My truck had the commercial slider hitch control switch that is now plumbed to the Trailersaver hitch. Jim and Alie, thanks for letting me know I can plug those airlines and doesn't affect the general operation of the truck except lose those functions. So I am going plug the line and test if there are any more leaks. Maybe buy a generic air switch for a tempory fix and decide how it will like in the future. Many of these switch for sale on the internet from $15 to $110, but most looks used, I bought two and they both leak after pressure up. Probably old switch pulls out from the boneyard. Anyone has the schematic diagram of these switches from the air and electrical perspective. I try to look at the resource guild. Thanks. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHIEFWAHO Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Forgot to mention how invaluable a set of these are for removing the air lines. 1999 Volvo VNL610, Cummins M11 - 350/400 HP, 10 speed Rockwell - 'CHIEF' Custom flatbed with TrailerSaver air hitch. 3 cyl 8000 watt Kubota diesel generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, CHIEFWAHO said: Forgot to mention how invaluable a set of these are for removing the air lines. Yep, don’t leave home without them. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 You can also use a wrench of the proper size, 3/8-1/4 etc. I put the wrench around the tube, use the wrench to push in the collet and pull the tube out. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Biggest learning point for me: don’t have any pressure on the line you are trying to remove! 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 5 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said: Yep, don’t leave home without them. Funny how many of those are out there now. 2017 Kenworth T6802015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites2016 Smart Prime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padraic Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 On 1/26/2018 at 9:33 AM, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said: Padraic- You should be able to plug those lines off. My axle interlock is plugged and I don't have any issues. The air leveling dump switch I would try to replace. I love this feature for hitching and unhitching the RV. My truck had the commercial slider hitch control switch that is now plumbed to the Trailersaver hitch. I got those tools in home depot. Pretty handy. Let the air out before pulling the tubing out definitely help. I am sure that is part of the learnig curve leaving air pressure in the system and wonder why it is hard to pull. Plugging those dash switches work nice. I got full pressure at 120 lb PSI while the truck is running. Volvo VNL610 M11+ 98 10 speed Mountain Aire 40' 5th 2002 Outback Power, 1200 watts Sanyo panels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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