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No power to rangetop or washer


Twotoes
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I have a 2015 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. This morning I went to make breakfast and had no power to my cooktop. It's an all electric rig. There are two places under the bed in the MBR that have circuit breakers and all look ok. I also checked the two places outside (front and rear drivers side) and all those breakers look ok. I checked the EMS and it said I L-1 was a 3 and L-2 was 120 so I thought that the power coming in from the pedestal may be bad. I turned off shore power and started up the generator. The EMS now read 45 on both legs. The cooktop still would not work. Now I found out that the washer has no power either. The dryer has power. Everything else seems to have power. What am I missing?

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8 hours ago, Barbaraok said:

Go through and turn off and back on the circuit breakers.

Barb is correct. You can not tell by just looking if a circuit breaker has tripped as the physical handle actually moves very little and in some makes, not at all. You need to find what circuit breakers supply each of your items and move the handle to the "full open" position and then close it again. That is also how one resets the breaker as well. 

 

11 hours ago, Twotoes said:

I checked the EMS and it said I L-1 was a 3 and L-2 was 120 so I thought that the power coming in from the pedestal may be bad.

I don't understand those readings?

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12 hours ago, Twotoes said:

I have a 2015 Itasca Ellipse 42QD. This morning I went to make breakfast and had no power to my cooktop. It's an all electric rig. There are two places under the bed in the MBR that have circuit breakers and all look ok. I also checked the two places outside (front and rear drivers side) and all those breakers look ok. I checked the EMS and it said I L-1 was a 3 and L-2 was 120 so I thought that the power coming in from the pedestal may be bad. I turned off shore power and started up the generator. The EMS now read 45 on both legs. The cooktop still would not work. Now I found out that the washer has no power either. The dryer has power. Everything else seems to have power. What am I missing?

L1 at 3 and l2 at 120: I am assuming that is the voltage on each leg of your 50amp power source. (You need to consult your owners manual for the EMS to be sure about what the reading mean.)  It seems in this case you have lost one leg of shore power.  In a 50amp power service RV each leg (L1  L2) coming from shore power has 120V available at a max of 50amps.  Each leg powers approximately half of your 120V devices in the RV, i.e. 1 air conditioner on one leg and the other on the other leg.  It sounds like your cooktop and washer are on the leg that lost power.

Starting the generator and the EMS reading 45 on both legs:  That doesn't make much sense, but again assuming the EMS is showing the voltage on each leg of your 120V AC power, it seems you  have a problem which may, or may not be related to the first problem.   With the generator running, and both legs reading 45, I would be surprised if ANY 120V devices work, i.e. air conditioner, microwave, stove, etc.

Of course, as suggested earlier, it is not always possible to tell if a C/B is tripped by looking.  Turn off each C/B and then back on.

You might unplug from shore power and then start the generator to see if that makes a difference. 

If you are still having the problem you need a volt meter and someone experienced in measuring 120V power and start troubleshooting.  120V AC power can be dangerous or even deadly.

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Yes L-1 3 volts and L-2 120 volts are the reading at the EMS display on shore power. I did reset all circuit breakers, turning them off and back on again with no change in results. I also tripper the GFI on the bathroom 110 outlet. I did turn off the shore power before I started the generator and again no change. I checked the circuit breaker on the Sine Wave Inverter and pushed it in to make sure it had not popped. I also checker the internal Surge Guard and no warning lights were lit.The external Surge Guard on my shore power cord is also displaying the normal green light.  I called Winnabego Tech support as well as my dealers service dept and my ESP tech support and all believe it my be  bad inverter or transformer. The dealer said they couldn't get me in for service till the end of Jan. I am full time and only here for a few weeks and need to get it fixed asap so I have a mobil tech coming on Wed.

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12 hours ago, Twotoes said:

IYes L-1 3 volts and L-2 120 volts are the reading at the EMS display on shore power. 

I also checker the internal Surge Guard and no warning lights were lit.The external Surge Guard on my shore power cord is also displaying the normal green light. 

1

You are using both a hard-wired Surge-Guard and also a portable at the power pedestal and also have a built-in EMS? I have never heard of using 3 different power monitors at the same time. I suggest that you start by removing the portable Surge-Guard from the power supply to see if anything changes. 

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12 hours ago, Twotoes said:

Yes L-1 3 volts and L-2 120 volts are the reading at the EMS display on shore power. I did reset all circuit breakers, turning them off and back on again with no change in results. I also tripper the GFI on the bathroom 110 outlet. I did turn off the shore power before I started the generator and again no change. I checked the circuit breaker on the Sine Wave Inverter and pushed it in to make sure it had not popped. I also checker the internal Surge Guard and no warning lights were lit.The external Surge Guard on my shore power cord is also displaying the normal green light.  I called Winnabego Tech support as well as my dealers service dept and my ESP tech support and all believe it my be  bad inverter or transformer. The dealer said they couldn't get me in for service till the end of Jan. I am full time and only here for a few weeks and need to get it fixed asap so I have a mobil tech coming on Wed.

Just to be sure we understand:  You tested the generator again, by turning off shore power and starting the generator and your EMS still showed 45 volts on L1 & L2? 

This could be a separate problem.  Has it been a long time since you operated your 120V AC devices from the generator?    I would suggest you turn off shore power and start your generator again, this time test your 120V AC devices.  I would start with plugging in a AC device such as a space heater into all of the AC outlets and see if it works.  If so, then the EMS is not showing the correct reading. 

At this point, having a mobile tech coming out to troubleshoot the problem(s), is an excellent way to go.

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Kirk. I have had this Class A for 10months now and have always used the Surge Guard on the power cord. I had a 5th wheel before and i used the Surge Guard on the cord then too. The built in Surge Guard does not protect from high or low voltage or negative ground or reverse polarity that’s why I also use the external one. The EMS is just a management system. It does not protect from high low negative or reverse polarity. 

Al. I fire up the generator once a month after disconnecting shore power. I let it run for about a half hour and then turn it off and go back to shore power.  I almost never use the generator for power except a few times when I am traveling and stop in a rest stop for the night and even then I only run it for a couple of hours to make dinner and watch a movie. 

The mobil tech will be here tomorrow and I will post a follow up then. 

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Humm, my Progressive EMS will identify low/high voltage. lost ground, etc and disconnect shore power outside the preset limits. I'm sure your MH has a 240VAC cooktop, which makes your MH different than what many of us are familiar with, so my knowledge of my progressive EMS may not apply to yours.

 I would begin by testing incoming voltage at each connection, beginning with the MH shore power receptacle, and continue until I located where power is lost. During this procedure I would re-tighten every wire connection, these rolling earthquakes frequently loosen electrical connections, as does heat from prolonged circuit maximum load.

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