PM cost these days

[Padraic]

Hiatus for almost 7 years. What is the cost or fair price of an engine oil change and lube plus transmission and gears at the Volvo dealer or place like Speedco?

Today, I went to my North Virgina neighborhood to scout out three truck shops. The Volvo dealer and the Cummins shop quoted me $140 per hour labor for PM. A one-man mobile place will do it for $100 per hour but not much of a facility except a tall shack at the back of metal recycle yard.

The Cummins shop was the least interest to my inquiry, they were not busy but my job may be too small, I asked them how much it cost to inspect the engine and certified the condition. The service young guy told me there is no service like that. He said open up the engine and check the ring and valve cost 45 hours at $140 per hour, that is $5300.

The Volvo dealer service rep and the manager were more helpful and willing to give advice after I told him my 1998 truck has been sitting for 6 years except yearly ran around the storage yard. He said if the oil at the dipstick looks OK, I can drive the truck in about 28 miles.

So what do you guys opinion on a truck sat for 7 years without any oil change? Should I drive it or tow it to have the "1st" oil change. Looking at the dipstick, it doesn't look too bad. Appreciate your input.

[chief916]

If it were me....I would look around for a highway construction project where there where a bunch of dumptrucks running back and forth and try to hook up with a driver or two and ask them where they have their service performed.  Chance is good that they have a service contract to fix their trucks from a mom and pops business for a lot less than the big box guys.  That's what I did.  Saw all these dumptrucks....and I mean they were monster size...got a chance to talk to a few drivers who all operated under a company name...and they told me who they were told to take they're trucks to if things went bad.  It was a small mom and pop organization who was very reasonable...around 70.00 an hour.  If you supply your own oil and filters you can make out pretty good.  I've been doing business with them for the past 2 years and have become pretty good friends with the owner.  So alot of times they see things that you might over look and they will fix them  for next to nothing cause that's just they way they do.  20 or 30 miles on a way past due on a PM is a judgement call on your part but if you find a m&p close by....jump on out and say hello and see what they can do for you.  You may be surprised.

[BlueLghtning]

If you've been starting and driving the truck anually and it's starting and running now, I would just drive it to get your fluids changed. 

How many miles on the truck and how many miles did you put on it before it sat for those years? Is there really a need to go into the engine to look at it unless you actually suspect something wrong? I would think all fresh fluids and then some exercise to see what other things may need some attention? You'll probably run into some things that are "dry rotted". Once the fluids are changend and the basics, the best thing now is probably regular driving it to see what else needs attention. 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

I'd have a mobile guy come out and change the oil.  And go from there. 

A list of sorts-

Fuel filters changes and lines purged at the head- Fresh fuel to the head without pulling the injectors.

Everything greased

Crank the engine over without starting- see if builds oil pressure-  On my '98 Volvo 610 with a M-11 Cummins, there is a fuse on the negative battery post that when removed it cranks but doesn't start.

Several short "Cranks"-  See if the engine rolls over, make sure everything is loose, and moving.

Replace fuse 

Start engine and go to a high idle if possible- this brings up oil pressure and starts lubing the internals.

If it sounds ugly, shut it down.

Transmission wise- I'd have the mobile tech drain and refill. After the first movement/drive, I'd have it changes again.

Same with the rear.  

First stop after starting and building air would be a shop to do a full PM.  Coolant, upper/lower radiator hoses, all filters again, change the oil again- the first drive and warm up will have loosened sludge in the pan.

If it rolls over but doesn't start when the fuse is replaced, then it's a fuel or compression issue.  Injectors could be clogged, piston ring stuck, etc.  At that point, it will be cheapest to have it towed to a Cummins dealer.

The M-11 is an easy engine to work on.  Not much can go wrong with them as long as the mice haven't eaten the wiring at the ECM, it will run.

 

[Padraic]

Thanks for the suggestion and the list.

The truck engine has 465K. Nothing wrong with last year when I exercise her in the storage. I put in about 20K since we brought in 2002. So it was not much of a loading. I was worry about water condensation after seating for that long. Is there any suggestion on Fuel or Oil additive to help this little trip to the shop. 

I am sure she will start, the engine's parts and pully looks a bit of rusty and dust from many years before. The radiator fluid is an inch below the minimum of the line. Plan to add anti-freeze before I drive.

Today, I bought an extra fan belt and found the broken door lock plastic link at the Volvo dealer for $9. This fixed the failed driver side door lock operation.

[Star Dreamer]

Check to make sure you do not have a special antifreeze in the radiator, some use an anticorrosion type and putting regular will throw the mix off. 

Might be better to let the shop doing the oil change top it off, they probably have the right stuff.

[chief916]

9 hours ago, Padraic said:

Thanks for the suggestion and the list.

The truck engine has 465K. Nothing wrong with last year when I exercise her in the storage. I put in about 20K since we brought in 2002. So it was not much of a loading. I was worry about water condensation after seating for that long. Is there any suggestion on Fuel or Oil additive to help this little trip to the shop. 

I am sure she will start, the engine's parts and pully looks a bit of rusty and dust from many years before. The radiator fluid is an inch below the minimum of the line. Plan to add anti-freeze before I drive.

Today, I bought an extra fan belt and found the broken door lock plastic link at the Volvo dealer for $9. This fixed the failed driver side door lock operation.

Your engine should or will shut down if you have a low coolant problem..make sure the sensor in the coolant tank is covered with coolant.  The sensor detects no fluid and will shut her down in about 30 seconds.  As for additives in fuel or oil for temp quick fix I can't say.  I use 3 bottles of Rev-X at every oil change and Lucus fuel injector and fuel conditioner at every fuel up.  I have an 11.1 60 series Detroit and it's been doing a great job for being in-service since 1997.  Best of luck to you on getting your rig spun back up 

[Padraic]

Since it is an inch below the minimum, I supposed it is OK for a short trip to the shop for a coolant drain and flush. I will check the level of the sensor in the tank location (on edit).

[Wrknrvr]

 You may want to replace all the hoses and fan belts. As preventive maintenance .

 

 Just a thought ,.  Vern

[Padraic]

The local Volvo dealer parts department have the fan belt, but none of the radiator hose. I definitely want to replace those hoses. They were there since I got the truck in 2002.

[chief916]

1 hour ago, Padraic said:

The local Volvo dealer parts department have the fan belt, but none of the radiator hose. I definitely want to replace those hoses. They were there since I got the truck in 2002.

Try fleet pride or transsource.  Fleet pride may or may not have the hoses...if not transsource probably will...they're the Volvo parts supplier here in my neck of the woods.  Call and ask if they can ship parts out.  Just have the past six numbers of your Vin and they can tell you.

[Wrknrvr]

 While the fluid is out of the coolant system. Maybe change any sensors that are in that system. Also change the thermostat.

 Two years ago I did the coolant change and hoses.  But the thermostat is in the cab. Never thought to do it then. So it may be changed in a few weeks.

 

 Air filter and maybe new batteries. I would change the basic stuff so now you have covered all the normal things. I would even change the speed sensor on the rear of the trans.

  Then the air governor , oops I am spending your money. But it will be well spent it it keeps you off the hook.

 

 Safe Travels.   Vern

[beemergary]

My 84 Peterbilt with a Cat 3406b with 950,000 mi. had been in a barn for 12 yrs. Added a couple batteries and fresh fuel and drove her home 200 mi. Changed all the fluids and she's been running like a finely tuned machine. The brakes where slow to release because of plugged exhaust port in relay valve from mud dobbers.

[RandyA]

On 12/5/2017 at 10:34 AM, Padraic said:

Since it is an inch below the minimum, I supposed it is OK for a short trip to the shop for a coolant drain and flush. I will check the level of the sensor in the tank location (on edit).

Just my opinions:

Looking at the hard yellow color of your coolant tank I would suggest testing for diesel fuel in your coolant once you get to the shop.  Any diesel fuel there will cause the discoloration of the tank's plastic.  If diesel is in the coolant replacing all hoses is advisable as it will damage the insides.  Diesel in the coolant is often from defective injector cups.  Hopefully, my observations are wrong.  Don't add antifreeze, just some distilled water.  You will probably end up flushing and refilling the coolant anyway.  IMHO, unless you have leaks fluids should be OK.  If you don't mind getting a little dirt on the back of your shirt checking is an easy process.  Usually, all you need is a 1/2" drive ratchet with a long handle to unscrew the inspection plug.  Stick your finger in the hole, if it comes out wet you are good to go.  Engine oil should be no issue, even with some condensation.  It will evaporate as soon as the oil gets hot.  Oil floats on water so if you have any doubt drain out a little from the oil pan drain to look for water.  I hope you have a Davco fuel filter or equivalent.  If so, it will trap any condensation in the fuel supply.  With diesel fuel that old I would want to dump in a bottle of "Hot Shots Secret" as an algicide, water absorber and Cetane booster. I swear by the stuff.  Check tire pressures and slowly scrub off any rust on brake drums before you try a hard stop.  It is possible your brake shoes have frozen to the drum from rust if the truck has not been driven during the time it has been sitting.  Places like SpeedCo or major truck stops generally give you better prices on oil, filters, coolant, etc. service than a dealership.

[Padraic]

Thanks for the information on injector cup and fuel in the coolant and how to watch for it. Found a lot of video on youtube about IC. I don't think I have a Davco fuel filter, sound like a good idea to have.  "Hot Shots Secret" at Walmart just a few buck. Definitely, add it to my old fuel and added with fresh fuel.

 

[Pete Kildow]

IF the trucks been ran each year. If it were me, Pull a oil sample on the engine oil. Send it off telling them the oil has X miles on it. But has been sitting for that long. They will then tell you what is and is not in the oil.

Change the oil filters belts and hoses. Order the hoses online, if your not in a rush. Cost will be way less that way. Then there's online video's of changing the trans fluid. Being its a M11 and 10 speed. Not a lot  to watch out for. That is a manual 10 Right? If so it may even not have a filter. Most lower torque trans will not have the cooler and filter.

Pull the air filter and make sure something live has not eaten its way through it. Then replace the filter. As even if it were changed before parking it. That filter is 7 years old.

Drain Cooling system and replace and check to make the cooling filters have the additive in them.

Not sure what part of the country your in. But like here in West Tn. lots of local shops will do the job. And charge less then the big shops. Buddy of mine in Selmer Tn, I think he charges $85.00 per hour. And does as good or better job, then the big shops. From service like this. To rebuilds. he knows what needs to be done. And does it right.

[sclord2002]

Jim, I agree with your post EXCEPT for taking the truck to high idle [rated rpm/low load] immediately after start. 1800 to 2200 rpm immediately after start makes me cringe. I have seen and heard people do that and I have expected parts to start flying. I know generators  ramp up quickly to high idle before they are loaded but I don't  want to expose my old engine to that kind of stress. Fast idle, OK but high idle......I don't  really like that anytime. Just my thoughts. I hope you can make the ECR this year. We would love to see you there.     Charlie

[JPL]

Padraic    I have a 98 610 and we live down here in Chesapeake. Ours has a N14. What part of Northers Va? Are you fixing to get back on the road?  Hope you can find a shop that will treat you right. Keep us posted.   Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

[Padraic]

JPL nice to know you in Virgina. We are in Dulles airport area. Recent retired, taking the rig to Yuma. But many truck works need to be done before the long trip, the weather is not helping.

Right now, fixing the air leaks, then fluid/oil change and then tires replacement. There is only one small Volvo dealer close by. I-95 area should have more shop support. Which shop is your favorite? 

 

[jenandjon]

We have 6 trucks. 4 commercial 2 farm. We never ever go to the dealer unless its absolutely necessary. Always use smaller independent shops. For example. It cost $700 to replace a $5 relay at freightliner. They worked on it for about an hour and a half.

Yesterday I got a flat tire. I limped it in to a small independent tire shop. Less than $40 bucks and took 20 minutes. I hate to see what freightliner would have charged.

You are doing maintenance. Any smaller shop is probably just as good as another. I do all my own maintenance but if I had to choose I would probably go to the guy with the little shack.

[Padraic]

I agreed I love to work on all my cars. My last 1996 mini-van got to 320K miles, had only one clutch job by the shop in her life.

After owning an HDT for 16 years, this 20 years old truck starts presenting opportunities for me to learn how to fix it. Volvo dealer and Cummins dealer are crazy on their pricing. Cummins dealer quotes me 35 hours to open the engine top to adjusting valves.  

Locally, we have a one-man shop in a shack behind a salvage yard. I asked him if he can change my oil on site, he said no citing insurance regulation in a stoarge property. Otherwise, he would, he is at $85 vs $135 at the dealer.