Jump to content

Battery interconnect


Jim Corey
 Share

Recommended Posts

If I run a wire from my house battery bank (which is charged from shore power with my smart charger) to my chassis battery (which is not), will the chassis charge be maintained while parked? Do I need a diode to prevent backflow? I have several items that are on the chassis battery, mainly electronic device chargers, that create a drain while parked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Jim Corey said:

If I run a wire from my house battery bank (which is charged from shore power with my smart charger) to my chassis battery (which is not), will the chassis charge be maintained while parked? Do I need a diode to prevent backflow?

 

Jim, good questions, FWIW here are my thoughts.

 1) Sure, it’s possible and it can be made to  “work” to have your smart charger supply “some degree” of charging amps to the engine battery…………HOWEVER the amount of charge it receives depends on the connecting cables,  their size, distance and wiring configuration.

2) Sure, I would want a means to isolate the two to prevent any backfeed or discharges etc., however a Diode (a PN junction) has a 0.6 voltage drop and I prefer a quality  mechanical isolation relay instead.

HOWEVER THAT BEING SAID as a 47 year continuous RV owner, past dealer and Electrical Engineer, ITS NOT SOMETHING I WOULD DO.  

3) When charging multiple batteries in parallel, I prefer they be identical in type and size and design and age, which a deep cycle and a distance away starting battery ARE NOT. If that's what you have?? AGM or Lead Acid?? Deep Cycles for the house and starting battery for the engine I assume???  IE not a matched system

4) I prefer my smart charger be dedicated to supplying a full, complete, and quality charge ONLY to my house batteries and NOT mix it and labor it down trying to also charge some non identical distant engine starting battery. Even if it will “work” it may hamper the ability to supply that smart quality charge to the house battery bank.      

5) What I WOULD DO is use a quality Battery Tender, Battery Maintainer or what else called when plugged to shore power to charge ONLY the engine battery and NOT tie it to your quality smart charging system

6) Of course, I have often allowed my engine alternator to connect to my house battery bank via an isolation relay to charge them some while driving, but they DO NOT receive the full and complete and quality of a charge as my smart charger can provide. Again the connecting cables size, distance, and configuration determines just how much charge they may receive when driving

 Do as you please, sure it can be made to work, and just because it’s NOT how I would do it doesn’t mean you need to do the same, it’s your RV your money your choice.

 

 John T

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Ranger Smith said:

Get yourself a trikl-start for $49.95. It will do all that for you

That is a much better idea than what you are thinking of. If you do what you suggest, by all means, do add a blocking diode but that is a very poor way to keep your battery. When we were fulltime, I used a battery minder on our chassis battery and mounted it in the area next to the battery, keeping it connected to the battery and wiring the power to be energized whenever the shore power was connected. I used the same starting battery for 7 years that way. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to do what you are contemplating and it did work.  I originally started connecting the HDT batteries to the RV batteries to use the RV solar to keep the HDT batteries up.  The HDT batteries only had the normal draw of a parked vehicle.  It still worked when we had power to the converter.  Due to the potential problems described by others, I added a 30 watt solar panel for the truck.  That keeps the truck battery charged and we don't worry about it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've connected primary and secondary batteries with a VSR  (voltage sensing relay) with the batteries lasting for years.

On of my learning lesson was buying a battery minder that had a continual output that was too high for the battery I connected to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

RV Cable Grip

All the water you need...No matter where you go

Country Thunder Iowa

Nomad Internet

Rv Share

Dish For My RV.

RV Air.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.

The Rvers- Now Streaming

RVTravel.com Logo



×
×
  • Create New...