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Atwood W/H Electric Mode Only Works with Propane On Too


B & B Retired
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Good day,

We have an Atwood 10 gallon electric/propane water heater with the engine assist option.  Yesterday we woke up to luke warm hot water.  We were connected to 50 amp service at the time.  Flipping the circuit breaker did not solve the problem so I turned on the LP mode (electric mode still on).  I noticed that the amp draw jumped by 11 amps.  I tried turning LP mode off and on several times, and the amp draw always increased 11 amps when both electric and LP modes were enabled.  We are at a new full hookup site today with the same behavior so campground issues are eliminated.  This is really strange.  Does anyone have ideas on what the source of this problem might be and how to solve this?

Thanks for any help.

Bob

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I have studied thehttp://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf Atwood water heater service manual from Bryant RV Service and I can find no reason for the problem that you have,  From that service manual:

Quote

When the 110VAC portion of the water heater is not heating water, the following diagnostic steps and repairs should be investigated: Turn POWER OFF to the appliance before removing junction box cover. Perform the following steps with POWER ON to water heater.

1. Verify switch is in ON position.

2. Insure there is 110VAC to the unit (measure voltage across the black and white lead to the appliance with POWER ON). If none, trace wiring back and make appropriate wire repair. Perform the following steps with POWER OFF to water heater.

3. Manual reset ECO high limit switch-A should be depressed. Check for continuity between TERMINAL B and TERMINAL C of ECO.

4. Check for continuity between TERMINAL D and TERMINAL E of thermostat. If there is none, replace thermostat.

5. If water is insufficiently hot, insure thermostat is flush with tank.

6. Verify a good wire connection between ECO TERMINAL-C and heating element TERMINAL-F. Correct if necessary.

7. Check for continuity between heating element TERMINAL-F and TERMINAL-G. If none, element is bad and should be replaced. Do not over-tighten selftapping screws when installing new element.

8. There should NOT BE CONTINUITY between element screw-G and flange of element. If there is, element has shorted. Element should be replaced.

9. Verify ground connection.

NOTE: Heating element can be operated on an empty tank for a limited period of time before it self destructs.

12

 

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