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Av8r3400
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I've noticed a weird thing happening.  Occasionally my D13 powered 2012 VNL 730 will not want to turn over.  

My usual sequence is to turn the key on, wait for the system checks and/or glow light, then start.  It cranks a bit and pops right off.   

If I just jump in and turn the key to start (warm engine), there is a pause before cranking happens.  I try not to do this, but sometimes it happens.  It still turns over after the pause and starts right up.

 

Occasionally, it won't crank at all. No solinoid click or anything.  Just dead. When I release the key back to the run position, the panel and everything comes back to life but no cranking.  The last time I turned off the master switch for a bit then back on and it started.  Sometimes after multiple tries, it will start up as normal.  

I'm worried this will leave me (or worse the DW) stranded somewhere with a truck that won't start. 

 

Is is my starter going bad or is there a relay somewhere going bad?  Anyone else ever see this?

Thanks in advance. 

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I've had a similar issue for about a year now. 2004 Volvo VNL630

After all dashboard lights finish and it's ready to start, when the key is turned all the way to start, I can hear the solenoid click and the all of the lights go out on dash. When I release the key everything comes back, but no running engine.

I have narrowed it down to the starter (most likely), ignition switch or a bad ground. When it happens, I slowly turn the key back and forward to start a few times. Sometimes on one of those it just starts right up like nothing happened. One time it cranked so fast it startled me. So I'm pretty sure it's not the batteries.

I always keep mine on a trickle charger, and that seems to help too. I've read that on some Volvo's the AC line will drip condensation on the starter and cause rust. 

I just haven't had a chance to pull the starter out and look at it.

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That sounds a lot like the solenoid on the starter. The contacts burn every time you start the engine and eventually they have a difficult time making contact. You may just need to replace the contacts or just the solenoid. Scroll down and you will see an exploded view of your starter: http://www.delcoremy.com/find-a-part/product-details/8201100

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If your dash is going dead while the key is turned to the start position and then comes back on when you release it to the run position I strongly suspect a bad/loose connection.  A loose connection creates more resistance than a tight one, so when you try to start the engine and are drawing hundreds of amps you get a big voltage drop across the loose connection.  The voltage at any given point is the resistance times the current.  When only your dash is on it draws a small current and there is not much of a voltage drop across the bad connection.  But when the starter tries to draw a lot of current the voltage drop across the bad connection gets so big there is not enough voltage for the rest of the system and your dash goes dark because it doesn't have enough voltage.

This may be a ground, but it could be any connection in the starter path.  Check all your battery connections, including the positive side, and all the main cables from the battery to the starter.  Good luck.

 

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Hi Av8r, I just noticed this was your thread.  Sorry you're having troubles.  THE FOLLOWING MAY OR MAY NOT APPLY.

My older Isuzu Vehicross is having the same issue.  Fortunately for me there is a large dedicated following of owners who brainstorm a lot.  Like us in the HDT group.  The consensus in this case, was not the starter solenoid, but the ignition switch itself.

I tried the solution of, spraying WD40 directly into the key slot.  (My preference is Rem Oil so I used that instead)  that was a week ago.  No problem since, BUT the problem was very intermittent so it remains to be seen.  Maybe that solution can't hurt, but I would at least see if a search turns up anything for a VNL.

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On 9/17/2017 at 4:46 PM, Av8r3400 said:

I've noticed a weird thing happening.  Occasionally my D13 powered 2012 VNL 730 will not want to turn over.  

My usual sequence is to turn the key on, wait for the system checks and/or glow light, then start.  It cranks a bit and pops right off.   

If I just jump in and turn the key to start (warm engine), there is a pause before cranking happens.  I try not to do this, but sometimes it happens.  It still turns over after the pause and starts right up.

 

Occasionally, it won't crank at all. No solinoid click or anything.  Just dead. When I release the key back to the run position, the panel and everything comes back to life but no cranking.  The last time I turned off the master switch for a bit then back on and it started.  Sometimes after multiple tries, it will start up as normal.  

I'm worried this will leave me (or worse the DW) stranded somewhere with a truck that won't start. 

 

Is is my starter going bad or is there a relay somewhere going bad?  Anyone else ever see this?

Thanks in advance. 

I had the exact same problem, after cleaning all battery cables it would still do it on occasion, long story short, my problem ended up being a bad connection on one of the wires going to the transmission (Freedomline) I repaired the connection and cleaned every plug on the transmission, find and clean all of the Data link connections also, the Data link allows all of the computers in the truck to communicate with each other, clean with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease on them.

worked for me, good luck

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  • 4 weeks later...

She was being balky to me this past weekend.  I spoke with my local Volvo service shop and the guy suggested the tried and true "whack the starter a couple times with a hammer and see if it cranks" trick. 

Yup.  That did the trick.  Away she went.

Now its in the shop getting a new starter.  Ironically the price quote for the new starter ($400) is less than what I paid for the last starter I had put in a vehicle (a 2001 VW Jetta diesel, $600).  AND the starter in the Volvo probably makes more HP than the entire VW engine does...

Edited by Av8r3400
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Av8,

When the "hammer-kiss" to the starter is needed this usually indicates that the brushes are worn and likely the communcater needs to be turned and mica needs undercut and then brushes installed.....fairly quick job and any real stater shop can do the work for reasonable $....

Just a thought....

Drive on.....(let the hammer down and then start.....)

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11 hours ago, Dollytrolley said:

Av8,

When the "hammer-kiss" to the starter is needed this usually indicates that the brushes are worn and likely the communcater needs to be turned and mica needs undercut and then brushes installed.....fairly quick job and any real stater shop can do the work for reasonable $....

Just a thought....

Drive on.....(let the hammer down and then start.....)

Reminds me of a story.  (think its rubbing off DT)  Back many moons ago when I had a mobile truck repair business, I had an employee and he was on a road call and the compressor wont start.  I told him to tap on the starter.  He didn't get it started and when he got back I took the starter apart and all the magnets fell out.  I asked him how hard do he hit it, oh he said I only tapped it.......

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