Jump to content

Air Blowout, Winterize Kit, or Both?


freestoneangler

Recommended Posts

Our TT came with the water pump winterize kit (t-valve for pulling antifreeze into water lines) and the heater by-pass valves.  I also see some opt to use a small air compressor (with appropriate regulator) to pressurize/blowout the water system.  I plan to buy one of these for tire pressure maintenance anyway.  The potable water compatible (non-toxic) anti-freeze solutions look to be go to -50F which should cover those occasional really cold spells we can get here in MT.  On the other hand, if blowing out the system leaves only trace amounts in low spots like -p-traps, wouldn't just adding anti-freeze to those and the toilet be better?  :unsure:  How long does it take to purge out the antifreeze on next fresh water use - any residual taste/smell?

What method has worked best for you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When we lived in WY, I always winterized including RV antifreeze because of the temperatures and the length of time that they stay that way. After moving to TX I just blow everything out because we do not have nearly so severe winters and we do occasionally use the RV in the winter. I think that if I were wintering in the really cold country I'd still use the antifreeze, just to sleep better. One of the changes in RVs is the introduction of PEX water lines and they will withstand some freezing. What don't like freezing is an elbow that has water still inside. If you do blow out, be sure to run the fresh water pump dry for a minute or so, just to be sure all water is out of it as it will freeze damage. You also need to put antifreeze into you drain traps and the toilet. 

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a trailer for 11 years in northern Minnesota. All I did was put the water heater in bypass and drain it, drain the water system at the low point drains then close them. Run the water pump dry for 30 seconds (per instructions), then blow out the lines using the city water hook up. I then used about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze in the traps and toilet. I had absolutely no problem winterizing it that way. That was what the owner's manual said to do. It only took me about 15 minutes to get it done. Check your owner's manual and see how it says to do it. Now I just go where it is warmer to winterize.......

VisitedStatesMap.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I use to winterize, in addition to what has been mentioned for the water lines and drains; I would make sure that the fresh water tank and waste tanks were empty. I would empty the diluted antifreeze/water mixture from the waste tanks and put enough antifreeze down the drains and toilet to try to get it to the dump valves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, trailertraveler said:

When I use to winterize, in addition to what has been mentioned for the water lines and drains; I would make sure that the fresh water tank and waste tanks were empty. I would empty the diluted antifreeze/water mixture from the waste tanks and put enough antifreeze down the drains and toilet to try to get it to the dump valves.

Dump valves... good point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When we started winter camping we wouldn't use the water system because of flushing and refilling antifreeze in lines. 

We changed the system so the water lines are sloped toward the low point drains, the HW tank and back to the FW tanks.  Setup/take down for winter trips takes 10-15 min.

Installed one of these frost free valves on each side of the trailer which are great for the shoulder seasons.

http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Wall_Faucet_Pages/Model-22.html

 

 

 

 

2011 Cameo 34SB3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We winterized successfully for years in MN by blowing out lines.  One spring I , had a leak in cupboards where an elbow had cracked, can't say it was definitively an issue with winterization...but switched to pink stuff and I've never heard of a failure with pink stuff.  Additionally I no longer had a nagging concern about trace oil from compressor getting into water system. 

As MNtom stated though, I no longer worry about winterizing (moved Tom TN with an RV garage :)

Edited by MNRon
Autospell

Ron and Pat, and 2 Portuguese Water Dogs

2013 Silverado 3500 SRW Duramax w/SuperGlide

2005 NuWa HitchHiker DA 31.5 LK w/MorRyde IS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, TheDuke said:

So how much effort is it to blow out the lines and then use antifreeze? Do you know how hard it is to fix or find a leak that is behind a wall. An ounce of etc. 

Do what you want. 

 

11 years of blowing out the lines with absolutely no problems in northern Minnesota. I would say not much effort needed in my case.

VisitedStatesMap.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I learned that all water lines including low point drains need to be flushed with fresh water when "de-winterizing pink." 

Truck camper drain valves are about 2 inches from the T.  Swine pipe held enough pink to get in the fresh water flowing past the T to completely ruin the much anticipated first pot a coffee. 

:o

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not having the correct set-up for the blow-out and the TT having the winterize kit installed, I opted to do the RV anti-freeze.  All faucets running pink.  My water heater only has one low point drain port; which I removed and allowed water to drain.  I also cracked open the pressure relief valve (located above) to aide in getting water removed - hopefully the majority. 

Now a question about de-winterizing.  Just use copious amounts of flushing with fresh water?  Should the system be chlorine sanitized?Does anyone try and recycle the anti-freeze?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, freestoneangler said:

Now a question about de-winterizing.  Just use copious amounts of flushing with fresh water?  Should the system be chlorine sanitized?Does anyone try and recycle the anti-freeze?

Flushing with water only is usually sufficient, but some of us (not all) also believe that it is good to sanitize the system annually and this would be the best time to do so. Keep in mind that the water heater has been sitting all winter exposed to air and anything else the air might introduce. 

I have never heard of anyone saving the RV antifreeze but I suppose it could be done. To me, the effort of catching it without introduction of dirt and junk into it and then storing it some way far exceeds the cost of just buying new each year.

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes to what Kirk said. If in doubt about any Rv antifreeze aftertaste, add a cup of baking soda to the first fill, after you flush the system of Rv antifreeze.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of remote locations don't have pink stuff available so folks blow out everything quite successfully.  There are many thousands of boats cleared of water this way all the time in Alaska.  A plunger works fine for pumping clear a p-trap BTW.    I have had good luck with air clearing water from the ice maker and tubing.  How's the best way to get the pink stuff to do this?  Make some pink slush?

Later, J

Edited by KodiakJack

2012 Landmark, San Antonio

2013 Silverado CC, 3500HD, Duramax, DRW, 4x4

Backup, side and hitch cameras, Tireminder TPMS

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the South and found the previous owner did not winterize properly despite a bypass and easy pump powered siphon hose. The Toilet valve cracked and leaked. A well the plastic mixer pipe inside the two handle sink in the vanity area was cracked. I made sure after replacing them that I flushed the toilet until pink as well as the water valve and tubing for the toilet is a PITA to R&R.

I just sold my fiver and am getting a deluxe Scamp fiver for minimal weight and the Scamp for our rare weekends camping is all that we need. So going even simpler.

RV/Derek
http://www.rvroadie.com Email on the bottom of my website page.
Retired AF 1971-1998


When you see a worthy man, endeavor to emulate him. When you see an unworthy man, look inside yourself. - Confucius

 

“Those who can make you believe absurdities, can make you commit atrocities.” ... Voltaire

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎9‎/‎28‎/‎2017 at 4:03 PM, KodiakJack said:

Lots of remote locations don't have pink stuff available so folks blow out everything quite successfully.  There are many thousands of boats cleared of water this way all the time in Alaska.  A plunger works fine for pumping clear a p-trap BTW.    I have had good luck with air clearing water from the ice maker and tubing.  How's the best way to get the pink stuff to do this?  Make some pink slush?

Later, J

Nope, you merely remove the solenoid water connection and empty the bowl, when you remove the bowl the ice maker line drains.  I always dump the first batch of ice, which may contain something I don't want in my Scotch on the rocks. Someone once asked about draining the supply line inside the freezer, DuHH.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

New to RV in Minnesota.  I plan on putting the RV antifreeze everywhere there could possibly be water.

Is that really all there is to it?  I guess I don't now why folks would spend 100 bucks to have a pro do this. What could I miss that would make me regret later that I did it myself?

pethier, interested in toyhaulers for 13-foot car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does is make sense to drain the water tank and then put a few gallons of RV stuff in the water tank and do all the flushing from there?

I would plan on sanitizing the system in the spring, as i have not sanitized it since I bought it.

Other than draining the water heater, what possible things are there to avoid forgetting?

Thetford toilet has no trap, so water heater and the traps in the two sinks and the shower/tub seem to be all to worry about.  

I assume that having RV antifreeze in the water tank, the blackwater tank and the greywater tank all winter will be OK.

pethier, interested in toyhaulers for 13-foot car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't put antifreeze in the fresh tank. You will have a terrible time getting the taste out. Look in your owner's manual. There should be instructions for the way the manufacturer says to winterize. For your water heater, there will be a drain plug OR an anode rod that you pull to drain it. Make sure that the water lines are in by-pass for the water heater. A lot have a line to add antifreeze through the suction line of the pump. Don't forget to put antifreeze in the sink drains and the shower/tub drain plus I always put a cup or so in the toilet to help keep the seal moist.

VisitedStatesMap.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Mntom said:

Don't put antifreeze in the fresh tank.

XI

I leave the drain valve open, any water remaining would be minimal and sheet ice won't cause extreme expansion pressure.

I have a  whole house water filter on inlet, Which I remove the filter before blowing or any  pumping any RV anti-freeze into the system. when all finished I removed the filter jar and pour the pink stuff down a drain.

I like to blow the lines a bit to remove excess water so not leaving diluted anti-freeze in a portion of the line.

Clay & Marcie Too old to play in the snow

Diesel pusher and previously 2 FW and small Class C

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎10‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 11:00 AM, pethier said:

Does is make sense to drain the water tank and then put a few gallons of RV stuff in the water tank and do all the flushing from there?

I would plan on sanitizing the system in the spring, as i have not sanitized it since I bought it.

Other than draining the water heater, what possible things are there to avoid forgetting?

Thetford toilet has no trap, so water heater and the traps in the two sinks and the shower/tub seem to be all to worry about.  

I assume that having RV antifreeze in the water tank, the blackwater tank and the greywater tank all winter will be OK.

If you have an outside shower/wash hose, that is an easy one to forget.  We just returned from a trip to southern UT.  With forecast lows in the 20's at home (MT), I pulled the drain plug on the hot water heater before we left so it could drain in route.  After closing the two HWW bypass valves, I used the winterize kit hose to fill lines with anti-freeze. We did not use the fresh water tank and it was drained before we left.  I'm not sure there is enough antifreeze in either the grey/black water tanks to cover the valves??  I drained both tanks at our last stop, so other than the amount of water in the lines during the winterize procedure, should be mostly antifreeze in there now.

Last night it dropped to 20F... no putting off maintenance until the next day around here. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
On 7/26/2021 at 9:04 AM, daltonbourne07 said:

If you want to keep winterize RV without antifreeze, you need: drain the water, drain the black and gray holding tanks onto a designated local dump station, repeatedly flush the toilet and open all faucets until water is all drained, makes use of a blowout plug to let compressed air pass through all the water lines for a thorough drain.  It’s recommended that you line heat-generating insulation tape on hoses, valves, and water lines – as these are most vulnerable. Your RV needs a little bit of ventilation, vent covers allow your RV to control the air coming in – making sure there’s free airflow. Finally, Upgrade or install insulation will do wonders to keep your RV warm. 

You do realize this thread is nearly 4 years old.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...