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Overheating issue


bluflame11

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Hi friends! 

We have a 2007 730 with d12 and 2 pedal Eaton 10 speed. We purchased this in January. My family absolutely loves traveling in the truck! Everyone has been so helpful! 

We have been having some concerns with overheating while towing grades.  While towing up hill,  the temp gauge would climb upwards of 215+, then the "check" light would come on and the message center displayed "engine ecu maintenance required". We did not want to mess with overheating,  so to the dealer it went.  They supposedly checked everything out and said it was the temp sensor,  and replaced it.  

Next time out,  same issue.  Called the dealer and they said everything checked ok and since no codes were being left on the computer,  they did not know where else to go.  

Yesterday,  climbing a grade,  the same messages came on,  but them it progressed to the red "stop" triangle and the message center said "engine coolant temp high". We backed way off,  and thankfully crested the hill without shutting down.... obviously I am very concerned. Once we crested the hill,  the temp cooled down and all lights/ messages went away...

Any ideas? 

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 On a normal cruise it runs 170-180 I believe...

I hands tried down shifting,  ruining in "low", easing off the throttle,  nothing seems to change it....

As far as rpm, it is probably around 14-1500, maybe upwards of 2000 if i downshift. 

I believe the fan is engaging around 210ish

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Check the simple stuff first.  If you can, take a garden hose and clean the radiator.  Flush from both directions.  You may be surprised at the dead bugs that come out.  Also take a flashlight and look between the various elements of the cooling "stack".  there may be some leaves or other debris hiding in there.

One time my uncle was complaining his a/c wasn't working properly. (Old Ford with a 6.9) I popped the hood and found a piece of cardboard he'd shoved in the previous winter.  Easy fix......

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Remove the radiator and have it flushed out. If you don't know when the thermostat was changed, I would be proactive and change it out as the cost is minimal if you do it yourself. Make SURE that the fan clutch is working correctly and locking up when needed.

 

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Like above, I use a pressure washer with the low power nozzle on it (wash nozzle) to blow the bugs and crap out from the rear to the front first and then the reverse way a few times. You have an intercooler, AC Evaporator coil and the radiator in that stack. It will take a bit to clean it out if it has been a while since it was done.

2017 Kenworth T680
2015 DRV 38RSSA Elite Suites
2016 Smart Prime

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Don't need to put it in " low" just downshift to 9th or 8th in manual mode. If you are running 1400 RPM's in 10th going up a hill you must really want to get there in a hurry. Sometimes it's ok not to be first.

A/C on?

Oil temp?

Coolant Level?

Can you turn your engine fan by hand?

Belts?

 

 

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This is the order I would check. Sounds like a partially plugged Rad. to me. Hose out good first from front and rear a few times. If the fan is kicking in you will hear it. Mine kicks in about 200 - 210 degrees. If that doesn't help I would change the thermostat and after that have the rad. flushed. After that I don't know.

Good luck.

Brad

 

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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Next time you have the truck up to temps. Check the lower radiator hose temps? See if its hot or cool, if its hot you know its flowing water. Sounds like the cooling system is clogged somewhere. That or you have a leak on the air to air somewhere. That will make low boost, and can make a truck run hot.

Also you may think the cooling fan is working. But some just kick on, but slip enough to not cool right.

Also some of the volvo D12 and D13's had issues with the water pumps. The impeller will spin and do OK. But at a load, spin on the shalt. Thus not cool, most have issues even on flat ground with temps though.

Pete

 

 


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4 hours ago, Pete Kildow said:

Next time you have the truck up to temps. Check the lower radiator hose temps? See if its hot or cool, if its hot you know its flowing water. Sounds like the cooling system is clogged somewhere. That or you have a leak on the air to air somewhere. That will make low boost, and can make a truck run hot.

Also you may think the cooling fan is working. But some just kick on, but slip enough to not cool right.

Also some of the volvo D12 and D13's had issues with the water pumps. The impeller will spin and do OK. But at a load, spin on the shalt. Thus not cool, most have issues even on flat ground with temps though.

Pete

Thanks! I'll check these things.... how much boost should I see? 

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1st. - Gently clean the a/c condensor, charge air cooler, and radiator.  Beware the urge to git er done and pressure warsh incorrectly and smash little fins flat. 

If the truck has always operated where there are no insects, skip step 1. 

2nd - Wonder why Volvo didn't build with a manual fan switch.

3rd - Leave the truck fast idling for a bit with the a/c on - this should cause the engine fan to engage if it is working. 

Or

3rd - go for a spin upa  big grade again this is more fun than running the engine parked - see if fan engages. Wonder again why the truck has no switch... 

If all of the above is in order then start taking the truck apart, looking on the internet ....

You should be able to floor it up any grade in the land with a class 8 and a rv trailer load with zero fuss from the cooling system. 

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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Just thought of this. Could the Rad. hoses be getting old and soft and compress under load and restrict the amount of flow? Just thinking out loud.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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If the usual suspects check out, i.e. radiator, thermostat and fan clutch, I would encourage you to test the air to air intercooler. It's often overlooked in this scenario and I've personally experienced how much it can impact the ability to climb hills.

 

 
 
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6 hours ago, noteven said:

 

You should be able to floor it up any grade in the land with a class 8 and a rv trailer load with zero fuss from the cooling system. 

I always thought that is the way it should be,  but I am inexperienced.... not necessarily trying to pass everything on the hill,  but always thought it should cruise right up with the rv without any issues! 

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1 hour ago, SKP038620 said:

Not an hdt owner but do have a mid 4700 low-pro.  When my temps get high as have been discussed have changed the

cap on coolant system .  Its a 10lb cap.  easy fix..        Jim S

This is an often overlooked cooling system component...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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