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Leveling a 30' Class A Motorhome


colomtns

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I am looking to buy a used motorhome. One of the units I am looking at does not have leveling jacks. I know from my experience with a truck camper that the refrigerator did not work properly when the unit wasn't level plus it just felt uncomfortable.

 

How do you level a motorhome that does not have leveling jacks?

 

By the way I would be staying at places ranging KOA campground to boondocking.

 

Thanks

 

Lew

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I used 2x6" scraps to add under the tires.

 

***** Be sure to always support both tires on a dual set, otherwise, you will overload and compromise the internal integrity of the single tire carrying the load and it will peel tread or blow out sometime later. I used this method on both 24' and 27' class A Winnebagos.

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My first motor home did not have leveling jacks either. I carried 5 bags of 10 each Lynx leggo type leveling blocks. Even after the first year when I bought a new motor home that did have jacks I still had to use them sometimes and would crack one every year or so.

I just considered it a cost of the lifestyle and replaced them as needed.

I did not want the weight of wood and really did not have the space to store wood strips/blocks anyway.

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I am looking to buy a used motorhome. One of the units I am looking at does not have leveling jacks. I know from my experience with a truck camper that the refrigerator did not work properly when the unit wasn't level plus it just felt uncomfortable.

 

How do you level a motorhome that does not have leveling jacks?

 

By the way I would be staying at places ranging KOA campground to boondocking.

 

Thanks

 

Lew

 

I wouldn't buy a unit without jacks .

And , if there was a unit without jacks that interested me , I'd have to look at having a jack system installed .

 

Of course , you could always look at 'hand leveling' a unit as 'just a part of the RVing fun' . ;)

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Lew, you didn't say what you are looking at. Our 40' Foretravel doesn't have leveling jacks, but we're always level. Why/how? Our coach uses the air bags for the leveling system. Once we're landed, I push the button twice, and the system lowers the high end until the coach is level. If that isn't enough it will start raising the low end. Newell also uses this system, and I think some Country Coach and Beavers do, too.

 

If you don't have a leveling system, some two by planks are a good alternative. As was mentioned, be sure to support both tires for the duals. If weight and space limits allow, I'd make one just a little bit longer than the footprint of the tire, then make a second one long enough for the first one to rest on it. Drill some holes in both so that you can drop four, six, or eight fat nails in to hold the two together. Four such sets would be good enough. If you wanted to get really fancy, make the shortest ones out of 1 by material, then a second level out of the 2 by, then a third one also out of 2 by. That way you can raise in 3/4 inch increments up to 3 3/4" lift. Notice that I didn't specify 2 x 6 or 2 x 8. Measure the footprint of your tire and make sure that you are using something that is slightly wider than that.

 

If you get a coach with drop-down jacks you will need to have something underneath them. If you get a heavy coach, like a Bluebird, you will need something pretty stout to take the weight.

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You might want to buy two small levels and put one of them on each side of one of the back corners. That way, you can quickly see how un-level you are. And by the way, the newer refrigerators don't have to be quite as level as the older ones to work efficiently.

 

I carry about five two-foot long 10x2s and only have to use them about once in every three campgrounds. The rest of the time, the sites are level enough to be comfortable.

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