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AC issues


rdickinson

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There are 2 ac/heatpumps on the roof, a 15k at the rear and 13.5 at the front of the trailer. The rear seems to be working

 

  • outside ground temp in the shade is about 80f

  • temp of inside of duct 49-45f taken with laser gun

  • condensation on ceiling duct flange

  • roof unit air exhaust 110f

  • condensation running off roof. A little over a gallon in 18hrs.

 

Fwd 13.5

  • air temp 75 out of ceiling duct

  • temp of ceiling adjacent to grill 78

  • roof unit exhaust air temp 95

  • no condensation on inside ceiling duct flange.

  • no condensation running off roof.

 

They both used to start up in 3 stages, a few minutes when temps were set, then some part of them would start then a minute or more later the second part or stage would start up.

 

Rear 15k still goes thru time delay then a 2 stage start up.

 

Front 13.5 still has time delay then starts up but doesn't seem to cool.

 

The front one seems to blow the breaker the odd time for some time.

 

Any diagnosis or recommendations?

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The start capacitor for the 13.5K is probably shot.

That would be my guess as well.

 

Since I know you like to do renovations, now might be the time to give some consideration to a mini-split in one location. You will have to figure out where to put the outside unit. You can put it in "free air" on a carrier on the back. Or, if you have room underneath you can go there, as long as it has some space around it.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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When mine did this it was the start capacitor. It was easy to change (I did it myself) and the water started running off the roof again. Just make sure all your connections are tight when you change it.

 

Brad

Brad and Jacolyn
Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier
2009 Smart "Joy"
2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo"
2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition
VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218"
Fulltiming and loving it.

 

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If the start capacitor failed you need to look into the cause of it failing. The capacitor is only designed to be used for starting and until the compressor is up to 2/3 to 3/4 of normal operating RPM. Any longer and the capacitor begins to heat up and will fail. There should be a relay that energizes the start windings that could have pitted and sticking contacts causing the start capacitor to be online for too long of a time. Changing the capacitor will get it functioning, but won't fix the problem.

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Yeah, if you need a new control box that is going to add about $300 to the cost. And if you want or need a new single thermostat that will add also. So it does add up.

 

It is still cheaper than going to mini-splits, but I will never have another rooftop RV AC unit. I just hate them They are noisy and inefficient.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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