oldride Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Getting ready to replace rear air bags on my Volvo. What is the best way to ensure i get the right bags. Vin # or axle make and model. Or something else? thanks Gary 2011 CAN-AM Spyder Rt SE5, 2010 Alpine 5th wheel, 1998 Vovlo VNL610 Hopefully 2 years 6 month till full time retirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Vin# works best. What I did was get a Volvo part number and then cross referenced it to a Goodyear bag. Cheaper than getting the Volvo parts counter to walk back to the shelf. I paid $90 or so each for mine free shipping from an online parts house. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 VIN # worked for me. Don't forget to get the star washers at the bottom. They don't come with. You should get new air quick connects, too, (1/8 inch NPT). Are you going to replace the air leveler? New shocks? I had to replace the cross member and everything up from there. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 This is a previous post on the cab air springs: http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=125467#entry870662 It has the part numbers for my 01. Gary, If you want the parts pdf for the parts, PM me and I will see if I can get it to you. Chet Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Looking back at his first post, he references the axle, so I'm gonna guess he's replacing the suspension bags..... But I've been wrong before. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted February 17, 2017 Report Share Posted February 17, 2017 Oops, I think you are right. Sorry! Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldride Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks for all the replies. The truck has several airleaks and the bags are pretty sad looking. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. The plan is to remove the bed clean and rust treat frame and recoat. The way the bed is made thought it would be much easier to replace bags and fittings while it was off. I will look at the leveler and anything else and try to do as much as possible. I bought the truck already made looks like it started off right. Like they say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This stuff is heavy will keep everyone posted. Thanks Gary 2011 CAN-AM Spyder Rt SE5, 2010 Alpine 5th wheel, 1998 Vovlo VNL610 Hopefully 2 years 6 month till full time retirement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Why change the fittings? All that normally goes bad is the o-ring inside. A couple of minutes well spent, to swap the rings and save the money for cigars. Ever since someone posted the numbers for the o-rings, every time I work on an air line, I change the ring in the fitting. It's amazing how often they come out in pieces. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Wish someone would repost it. I tried and could not 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 O-rings: http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=119437#entry794441 Google search string: o-rings site:www.rvnetwork.com Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks for all the replies. The truck has several airleaks and the bags are pretty sad looking. Just trying to get my ducks in a row. The plan is to remove the bed clean and rust treat frame and recoat. The way the bed is made thought it would be much easier to replace bags and fittings while it was off. I will look at the leveler and anything else and try to do as much as possible. I bought the truck already made looks like it started off right. Like they say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This stuff is heavy will keep everyone posted. Thanks Gary If you're pulling the bed off, I would change the torsion bar as well. It's cheaper and much easier to do from the top side than to struggle with it from the bottom. Change the rear leveling valve, and shocks while you're at it. Depending on how the bed is made and how close it comes to the rear of the cab, doing some part replacement at the back of the cab could be much easier as well. Changing the cab air bags and shocks is easier when you can stand between the rails than being half crouched half laying down trying to work over your head. I would love to have the time and place to pull my bed off for a week or 2..... but I've already changed all the hard stuff..... Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Wish someone would repost it. I tried and could notUpdated list.....Volvo part numbers. Color of o-ring changed from a green color to red. O-rings 1/4 O-ring Old part # 85108484 New part # 85146177 1/4 brass collet part # 85108476 3/8 O-ring Old part # 85108485 New part # 85146178 3/8 brass collet part # 85108474 1/2 O-ring Old part # 85108486 New part # 85146179 1/2 brass collet part # 85108475 5/8 O-ring Part # 85108487 5/8 brass collet part # 85108481 Wet tank O-ring part # 85108488 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Great! Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radar274 Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 Thanks Bob&Kay 2012 VNL730 I Shift D13 2.47 ratio 2018 Mobile Suites 40 kssb4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Thanks for the info on the updates parts list for O-rings. Just updated mine, and this kind of stuff really helps. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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