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Guidance on a new tractor not HDT related.


Broncohauler

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I've have a 2002 Kubota B2410 that I bought new. I generally only use it a couple of hours a month, but the convenience of having it there is priceless. Same way for the 3 pt backhoe - I'm not going to spend a couple of hours hooking up my trailer and running down to the rental place every time I want to plant a tree. Besides that, I enjoy sitting on a backhoe and find it relaxing - takes your mind off everything else.

 

The Kubota just runs. Fill it with fuel and change oil occassionally.

 

I agree completely with the commenters who recommended a box blade for grading. The comment about the blade following every up and down of the front end is absolutely correct, but something you'll learn to handle with practice. Be careful of a two axle box blade if it doesn't have scarifiers - the scarifiers are necessary to tear up and level pot holes. If you don't rip up the subsurface you'll still have the same holes.

 

I clear brush more than do dirt work and that is hard on loader hoses. I'm lucky to have a good hydraulics shop just ten minutes away and they know what they're doing. Every time I've needed a hose on a weekend and gone to any of the auto parts shops that make hoses, either the "hose guy" has been off that day. Or, on the rare occassions they are actually there, they've screwed it up and the hose leaked.

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John, Jean and (the late) Molly & Mea (the puppy) Springer Spaniels
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0% on the Deere R's this month! I was down looking at trading my 4200 last week for something with a DPF, but I'll probably never actually go through with it. I use it all the time but it is only a short few hours in the summer where it is mowing or tilling something hard for more than an hour straight. So all the smoke from short and shuttle work is starting to get real annoying. But then again, that is probably the worst condition to put a DPF tractor in as well. It seems like I use it mostly as a big wheelbarrow but that's probably because moving rocks, digging post holes, tilling stuff, etc, etc is such a non-event that I don't even remember doing it much of the time. I hate my brush hog and if I'm using it that means I way missed all my spring work. I tried a finish mower and hated that too. I lay out my mowing like I'm driving combine and 3pt mowers rigid in the back just worked backwards from what I want. I ended up getting a whole separate Deere front mount mower but looked real close at adding a mid-mower to the 4200. Some of the new smaller Deere's can't add a mid PTO so be careful of that if you are thinking a mid mower. I keep it in a container so I need to fold the ROPS every time it goes in. Some of the bigger Deere's don't have a folding ROPS so be careful of that too. Also if you can credit the box blade toward a Harley rake (or whatever Frontier calls it) you'd be way ahead - especially in the sand down there. They clean up a mean gravel road and work pretty darn good to get anything you've dug up ready for grass as well. County doesn't allow any bare soil up here where I'm at so everything you do needs to end up grass-ready so it is pretty useful up here.

 

Anyways, my 4200 has been flawless for the 15 years I've had it, but that's not to say there are plenty of things I should be fixing on it. If I were to trade it for something it'd probably end up in the 30hp range as I think it would be a better size. I would definitely not go any smaller on it though. It has been pretty friggen handy and I can't imagine being without it. That's on 7 acres in the mud up here, but I swear I'm over at all of the neighbors places more often than mine. :rolleyes:

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The price goes way up over 38hp.

25hp and under means no DPF and I like that,less to go wrong.

What I like about the 3E tractors is the E stands for economy, which means less bells and whistles like cruise control but far less electronics to go wrong.

I'd want all the good stuff if I ran it all day like a lot of you but simple and more reliable is more important for my use.

Edited by broncohauler
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For driveway material I had crushed concrete. I would have to work it every couple of months. I got a deal on chipped asphalt and that was the best material. I didn't have to rework it for over 1 1/2 years. No potholes developed. It was great.

Ron C.

2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3850 D3

2000 Kenworth T2000 Optimus Prime

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The Deere is winning so far unless someone changes my mind and I do thank everyone for your help.

 

3) dealers in my area 2 of them do repairs.

Kubota only one dealer I not impressed by.

 

Kubota I'm told you pay for Warrenty work up front then get reimbursed.

Deere no out of pocket,'that's big.

Masey we have one dealer for sales and one other for repairs. Not exited about that.

 

Deere made in USA except motor?

Kubota made now in USA don't know how much of it. ?

Masey made in USA now I'm told bought out by Alis chambers ?

 

Mihunda made in India parts hard to get?

 

Branson no local dealers foreign made?

 

Deere just feels better and more comfortable,

The down side but worth it is the new 2017 tractors won't be here till April, but for $ 3k savings over 2016 model that have DPF and egr.

I'll just wait.

If anyone else has input jump in.

Thanks Charlie

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Keep in mind tractor engine horse power vs PTO output HP. 3 point implements are rated at PTO out hp. Now if your just blading that's not a problem.

Rick and Alana

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In the real world, hp isn't that important, as long as you're reasonably close. I pull a 15' bat-wing Bush Hog with a little 2030 Deere, rated at about 60ish pto. When in tough conditions, I go pretty slow. I've also pulled that same mower with 180 hp. Drive shafts can be fragile...............

 

PTO hp typically is about 80% of engine.

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We have a JD 3038 with the E-hydro at the campground. Over 1000 hrs on it and the only thing done to it is filter changes and fluids. It always runs, even in VERY cold weather. The E-shift is worth every penny if you are using the loader much. I've used LOTS and lots of tractors and skids in my life. This tractor is as good - in its class - as any I've used. Including Kubota. But ours is old enough not to have DEF on it. Just now buying a JD skid. I have literally thousands of hours on skids and the JD is as good as is out there. For the dollar. I'm not even really a JD "guy", but I can't complain about their reliability. It is important to buy something where you have LOCAL service, though. So that may alter your selection.

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Keep in mind tractor engine horse power vs PTO output HP. 3 point implements are rated at PTO out hp. Now if your just blading that's not a problem.

The PTO is only 19hp will this handle a 48-60" brush mower. Very little use on about 5 acres.

Almost all work is with a blade or may build a log splitter if it can handle it.

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We have a JD 3038 with the E-hydro at the campground. Over 1000 hrs on it and the only thing done to it is filter changes and fluids. It always runs, even in VERY cold weather. The E-shift is worth every penny if you are using the loader much. I've used LOTS and lots of tractors and skids in my life. This tractor is as good - in its class - as any I've used. Including Kubota. But ours is old enough not to have DEF on it. Just now buying a JD skid. I have literally thousands of hours on skids and the JD is as good as is out there. For the dollar. I'm not even really a JD "guy", but I can't complain about their reliability. It is important to buy something where you have LOCAL service, though. So that may alter your selection.

Jack thanks your just the one I needed here.

The 3032 and new 3025 use all the same components and frame as your 3038 except horsepower.

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What's the problem there having??

The answer to this is a question...

 

Would YOU stand behind a manure spreader...?(especially if it was loaded and running...LOL)

 

Edited to say Sorry...somebody else beat me to it before I got this posted...)

Edited by buscrusher

Doug
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The info about the Kubota warranty calling for prepayment is wrong. Theirs is a warranty like all others. Covered repairs are paid for by Kubota. If the dealer is requiring pre-payment, they are operating out of the norm and should be reported to Kubota.

 

I'm not a Deere fan. You pay a lot of money for the name and green paint. They seem to be over engineered and often far more complex than they need to be, even their basic tractors.

 

 

All of this being said, the dealer is the most important part of the transaction. You need to be comfortable with them first. The tractor/vehicle second.

Av8r3400
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You'll be fine with either Kubota or Deere. I've had a Deere 3320 for 10 years and never had any need to go back to the dealer for any repairs. I used to go to the dealer to get filters, but I get them from Amazon now. Never had any problems from it. It has the E-Hydro transmission and a front loader. The two pedal E-Hydro is really nice when using the loader. My brother has a slightly smaller Kubota, with a front loader. He runs it on a very hilly area so he had smaller, wider tires installed to lower the center of gravity and widen the foot print. He really likes it and has had no problems from it.

 

On my 3320 I use a 5 ft finishing mower, 5 ft brush cutter, 5 ft tiller, 5 ft box scraper or a 5 ft spike aerator. I would like to have a PTO generator, but my PTO output is a bit shy on horsepower to to run a generator of any good size.

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The PTO is only 19hp will this handle a 48-60" brush mower. Very little use on about 5 acres.

Almost all work is with a blade or may build a log splitter if it can handle it.

My B2410 is 24 engine hp, 19 PTO hp and it pulls a 5' bush hog no problem. You will need to slow down in tall thick grass, though.

******************************************************
John, Jean and (the late) Molly & Mea (the puppy) Springer Spaniels
2016 F250 CCSB w/Andersen Ultimate Hitch
2014 Shasta Phoenix 27RL XLT
BataanMissing.com - AirSafety.com
******************************************************

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