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5th Wheel Hitch


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It can also depend upon the design of the front cap on your fiver. I have a newer unit that is designed in a way that you are not as likely to make contact between the cap and the truck. I , being a retired trucker, will not put my unit in such a position to make contact because of the severe stress it puts on the fivers suspension. We have been full timing going on 7 years and have never needed a slider, but it IS your money.

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Another hitch to look at is the Andersen Ultimate. There is also a pin box that you can install that uses a wedge in the plate and puts the pivot point at the trailer, but for the life of e I can't remember the name of it.

edit: Here is an Andersen hitch for sale: http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=126366

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Gentlemen, I appreciate your input, thank you. My rancher friend said he has never had a problem with his 6 1/2' bed, but I was looking for a little more experience on the road. Thanks again for the informatioI have

I learned the hard way, 2 rear windows and a cab corner on my old Chevrolet.

Next truck had a long bed, no problems, and the Volvo has a flat bed, no problems for sure.



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I have a 2016 F250 crewcab with the short bed and the front on my (100 inch) fiver has at least 18 inches clearance at 90 degrees. I have the Andersen hitch which puts the pivot point about five inches aft of the rear axle. Cab and bed clearance is not a consideration on my TV and fiver in any configuration.


I love the Andersen hitch, no bucking, easy to adjust and I can remove the entire hitch with one hand. Leaves more than enough room in the bed for a full width toolbox, a generator and 3 or 4 LP bottles.

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The box on our F350 is 6 1/2' and the front cap on our Cameo is slightly rounded.


We looked at slider but in the end we bought a TrailerSaver TS3. We can make 80-85 degrees turns, coming close on many occasions with not contact "yet". A slider or Reese Sidewinder would take allot of the worry out of backing or making sharp turns but we figured a long box is the way we'll eventually go.


The pros and cons of the solutions we looked at are:


-Slider hitches

Some have more travel than others

Can only be connected/disconnected with the truck at 10 to 20 degrees off center-line.......why we didn't buy a slider.

Some adapters for the factory "puck" system can raise the hitch 2"-3"

Bigger foot print in the box


-Reese Sidewinder

Can be used as a fixed or swivel pin box

The wedge needs to fit 100% to the hitch. Anderson make their own wedges for TrailerSaver hitches for this reason

Bolts on the fixing wedge may loosen off

Pin box over 19K are not available with airbags or a way to prevent chucking.....why we don't have a Sidewinder.

Swivel may loosen. A 250lb?? torque wrench is then needed.


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I'll third the recommendation to use the Andersen Hitch. If you already have a gooseneck ball in the bed of your truck the Andersen will be very inexpensive compared to adding a Holland style hitch to a truck bed in addition to the gooseneck hitch.


If anyone thinks I am endorsing gooseneck adapters that add a tube to the Fiver hitch pin nooooooo! They will damage the frame of the fiver if the fiver was not custom manufactured with the appropriate gussets in the fiver frame.


Go to the link above and see the Andersen, not a gooseneck extension tube. No added leverage to the start and stopping moments of force. It is by far the easiest to hitch up I have ever used. Quieter and leave a full bed anytime you need it. It lifts out leaving you a full bed to haul other things, and as seen in the video with the aluminum Andersen Ultimate hitch, even a little 10 year old girl can remove and carry it. http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3220--aluminum-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-2-gooseneck-version.aspx


I had a short bed and rather than experiment with it and maybe finding out it would not work, I got the Andersen because it already had a gooseneck. Super hitch. However, I hated the ride and the handling of the short bed and sold it to get another used long bed Cummins Dodge diesel with only 125k miles when I bought it. I'd rather park further back anyway as I did with the short bed to keep the idjits from dinging my truck paint. I do the same in my car so parking is not a factor for HDTs or long bed 3/5 and 1 ton light duty trucks.


The biggest drawback to the sliders are their tremendous weights. Even PullRite has made a similar to the Andersen hitch here: http://www.pullrite.com/products/isr-series-superlite-industry-standard-rails/isr-series-superlite-20k-fifth-wheel-hitch


But it requires a complete frame install when the Andersen bolts to your already frame installed gooseneck hitch. If I were going to a new truck I would install the turnover gooseneck frame mounted gooseneck hitch and the Andersen because the hitch is as safe as any but then can be removed to a completely smooth bed without having to take a ball out.


I just called PullRite.and the weight of their 16k slider hitch is 194 pounds. http://www.pullrite.com/products/isr-series-superglide-fifth-wheel-hitches


Their SuperLite hitch cannot usually be installed with a gooseneck due to them both needing a frame bracket mount. It cannot bolt onto an existing gooseneck ball like the Andersen can.


So for folks still mixing up a dangerous gooseneck extender pipe adapter for attaching to a floor level gooseneck hitch, go to the above PullRite links and see that they make one similat to the Andersen.


So if like me you buy used diesels, here is how I would make the decision. If my truck has a properly installed gooseneck in it, I will go with the Andersen for a fiver. If my used truck has a standard Holland type hitch already in it, I will use it as I am doing now since my current truck had a standard 16k hitch in it, but no gooseneck.


If I am buying a new truck and were going to part time I would definitely get the Andersen, as it would only need the hitch occasionally. I would go to the expense of installing a gooseneck hitch with the turnover ball so I can pop off the Andersen and not even have hitch rails on the bed floor in the way.


Another consideration is resale value. Big light duty trucks with both a properly installed frame mounted gooseneck hitch and the Andersen will appeal to the farmer needing a gooseneck, or the gooseneck trailer hotshot drivers down here in the oil patch. When I sold my short bed I kept the Andersen and sold it separately.


But that only because my new to me diesel truck already had a fiver hitch installed but no gooseneck.


Even after back surgery I could carry the 35 pound aluminum Andersen. Not the steel one I had or the PullRite SuperLIte at 62 pounds.


I can't even consider swapping 160 pounds of carrying capacity just for the hitch, and some other older sliders weigh twice that!


BTW, the PullRite SuperLite looks easier to hitch up with the guide for the ball. Anyone with an Andersen knows it is not needed. You can see the whole ball and hitch opening when hitching up. NO hitch is easier to gently hook up to and have the ball positioned right the first time, every time.

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For the peace of mind they offer custom tailored Ultimate Hitch Chain kits. Click here, and then click on the PDF installation instructions:



It is really no big deal. See, any properly installed gooseneck hitch will have the safety loops installed onto their hitch to frame brackets.


The system is easy to use.

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I also have the Andersen...I can get it out of the truck by myself (I have the heavier version) but can't quite get it in by myself yet (working on a solution for that). Safety chains really aren't that much of a pain to add...chain, hooks, bolts...attach to holes on fifth wheel pin box.


After watching emocha22 loading firewood rounds I've used the idea many times. It may work for the hitch.


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