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Volvo door adjustment


rdickinson

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I think the guys who worked on the passengers side cameras either loosened it up or closed the upper part of the door on a cord but air howls in when driving. The gap is definitely visible and significantly bigger than on the drivers side....So how do I get this adjusted? The location where the truck is currently being worked on won't touch it.

 

Looks like the top needs to go in on the hinge side.

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I think the guys who worked on the passengers side cameras either loosened it up or closed the upper part of the door on a cord but air howls in when driving. The gap is definitely visible and significantly bigger than on the drivers side....So how do I get this adjusted? The location where the truck is currently being worked on won't touch it.

 

Looks like the top needs to go in on the hinge side.

 

Roger: Sounds like gorillas worked on your HDT. Did they asked to be paid in bananas?

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Thanks for the Astro comment, very helpful.

 

Re the glass, I understand but have not been able to get an answer whether they got it out of adjustment by loosening the hinges or caught a cord or something in the door and the wind if any blew it shut on the cord.

 

Getting up 7 or 8 ft and trying to bend the door frame is not that easy. Randy looked at it and shook his head.

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Somehow or another this equates to Randy's using a Tampon for injector harness. This method won't fly. Putting a 2x4 in the door hinge area and slamming the door would bend the top of the door out further. The Torx wrenches are in the truck, so I'll try something.

 

Are you on something tonight??

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Somehow or another this equates to Randy's using a Tampon for injector harness. This method won't fly. Putting a 2x4 in the door hinge area and slamming the door would bend the top of the door out further. The Torx wrenches are in the truck, so I'll try something.

 

Are you on something tonight??

I didn't mention the hinge area, I wrote "appropriate place". IF the door is bent, there IS a correct spot, or multiple spots, where it will work. Would I do it on my truck? I have, gently, and it worked. I have a truck with no more adjustment left in the hinges (2000 Mack, CH613), and that was the only way.

 

BTW, I think Randy's idea is rather elegant. The idea of a return line to the filler tube is even better.

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If the top of the door needs to go "In"-

-Roll window down

- Open door

-Place long 2x4 thru window so that the tip of the wood is outside the window frame at the top, place padding between wood and painted door frame.

-With the longer end of the 2x4 hanging down to the inside space between the truck body and door, place padding on the bottom window sill or arm rest wherever the wood 2x4 touches the interior of the door.

-Gentle press the 2x4 towards the door, a light springing/bouncing motion is acceptable, it will not take much to adjust/bend the frame back into place.

Don't go all gorilla on this. The leverage of the 2x4 is plenty to move the metal around.

I usually tighten the window area until you cannot slip/pull a dollar bill thru the rubber gaskets.

Small adjustment, roll window up, close door on dollar, test pull, repeat as necessary.

 

Now if the door frame has an obvious Wam'o where its bent in 1 short spot, then a body shop will be needed.

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