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hardwood/vinyl plank flooring on slides


lockmup68

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Posted in another section and no replies, so thought I would ask here.



Putting in new vinyl plank flooring in the 5th wheel. The main slide is a flush fit slide (floor is flush with entire floor when out. How have folks installed new, non-carpet floors in this configuration, like wood or plank vinyl? Can it remain flush? Or do I need to put a thin subfloor in the slide and have a little lip? For being flush, I was thinking of a "T" molding to fill the gap when flush and it would be attached to the slide in ride up and out when the slide is in.



For those who have wood floors or vinyl plank flooring, I assume you have a 1 inch rise on the slide vs. flush?



We are making progress on the remodel, interior paint will be done on Friday. We did three coats of gripper primer, and two coats acrylic eggshell on walls, two coats of glossy on the cabinets. I have 78 drawer/cabinet pulls in a bag, 142 hinges, At 2 screws per handle and 3 screws per hinge on the door side, and 2 screws per hinge on the cabinet side, that's 866 screws that have to be put back on. My wrist is already hurting.....Cabinet doors on, lay the flooring, install the refrigerator, install new range, sink and countertop, then start loading all of our stuff in the week before the estate sale. Goal is to be moved in by the 22nd. Working full time still is not helpful to the schedule. Crunch time....



Thanks,


Shannon



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IMG_6937_zpsvgrdyyoh.jpg


2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Lockmup68 I'll say you are making progress. It is really looking good. Have you been able to get past the slide issue? Hope the rest of it goes as good as this part. I see the heater so I wonder where you are? Why the upgrade? Older unit you are just upgrading? Whatever it looks good so keep it up and keep the pictures coming! Will you be at the ECR? Take care Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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Lockmup68 I'll say you are making progress. It is really looking good. Have you been able to get past the slide issue? Hope the rest of it goes as good as this part. I see the heater so I wonder where you are? Why the upgrade? Older unit you are just upgrading? Whatever it looks good so keep it up and keep the pictures coming! Will you be at the ECR? Take care Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

 

2007 Teton, was originally Desert Rose theme. Modernizing before moving in. All the cabinets were the yellow oak color and it just looked dated. Trailer is in great shape and I don't think it was lived in fulltime prior to us buying. Original owner had it delivered straight from the factory.

 

Paint needs heat, so keeping it warm in there for it to stick and dry. We are in middle TN and it was a high of 20 two weeks ago, to 65 today and will be a high of 40 in a day or two. Been crazy weather.

 

haven't started laying the floor yet. Hope to have all painting done by Friday, then get all the doors back on, then I'll start on the floor. Trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start laying. I do like the flush slide, but I haven't spoken to anyone on how they did the floor. When we were at New Horizons, Phil said hardwoods would have a 1 inch rise on the slide, even though it was a flush fit slide. So I think the answer is I need to lay a 1/2" subfloor on the slide before installing the floor and put some bullnose on the planks. I might try the T molding to see if it allows the floor to sit flush, cover the gap and have enough room to slide in without lifting up the planks on the center floor.

 

Yes, we'll be at the ECR.

 

Shannon

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Pretty much have to keep the carpet inside the slide, to act as a flap over the gap where the slide drops down. Elevated slides are a different story.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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Sorry, no advice on the floor, but i would recommend using a 1/4" 12v impact on the 800+ screws. Just requires a light touch on the trigger and stopping after a couple of hammer blows.

 

I use mine on electrical stuff too, because i'm too lazy to use a screwdriver.

 

Even switchplates.

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Sorry, no advice on the floor, but i would recommend using a 1/4" 12v impact on the 800+ screws. Just requires a light touch on the trigger and stopping after a couple of hammer blows.

 

I use mine on electrical stuff too, because i'm too lazy to use a screwdriver.

 

Even switchplates.

Yup, that's what I used to take them all off and will be using to put them all back on.

 

Apprecaite it.

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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I've seen it done a couple of ways. Both keep the sub floor as is - flush. First method just lays the floor on both sides and uses a thin removable T trim which is removed before the slide moves in, and is reinserted after the slide is out. This is done manually. Depending on the slide, this trim piece may be fairly large to cover a large gap. You may have to fabricate it and not use stock trim.

 

The other way I've seen it done is if the gap is small enough. Then the trim has been permanently attached to the floor and remains in place as the floor functions. The issue is getting a "clean drop" down into the slot. The floor tends to be slightly off sometimes and the trim can catch at the "hole" if there is a T section. So most of those have a simple flat "flap" of the wood material. This works best with Laminate. Otherwise you have to properly taper a wood plank section to fit, and stain to match. With engineered flooring some work is required. But it can be matched OK.

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WOW , What a redo !!

Please keep posting pictures, I promise not to let Miss Judy see them.....We pulled the carpet out of the center of our fiv'er and laid vinyl. Also up the stairs and the bath as well. No concerns yet on scraping the new floor. ( Hope we never do ) We will be at the ECR in 309 so stop and take a look if you want . Wont be there all the time as we have two events to do, but we will spend as much time as we can !!

Denver and Ms Judy Geitgey

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Get the slide strips you lay down before pulling the slide in. I learned the hard way about not knowing about them. A few nice scratches and need to replace a few sections of flooring.

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I see you are still going with the traditional face frame cabinet construction. Re the cabinet hinges, are you going to the old style overlay or a newer semi concealed , euro type hinge. If going to the overlay hinge, something like the Amerock 7629 you will need to pre drill for the screws as the new 5/8" screws will twist off going into hardwood.

 

Also with the overlay hinge you need to push the door flat when hanging it. The hinge side will stay where it is but the handles side will creep to the side. Something like dumping HDT suspension.

 

Once you've sucked in the hinge to faceframe screws the outline or an impression of the hinge will be pushed into the lacquered finish.

 

If going to the euro style, the screws may be 1/2" so that is less of a problem.

 

Re the floor, it would be an idea to protect the floor when underway by putting a 1/8" thick tile on top of the floor where the slideout rollers would sit then slideout is retracted. Constant pounding could leave a mark in the floor.

 

I'm a Cabinetmaker so have been through this extensively on or with my own rig..

 

Roger

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Thanks for all the advice. Few answers:

1. we did not do new cabinets. Simply painting the clear finish red oak that was really yellow.

2. all the hinges are the same ones that were on it, all hidden hinges. I took all of the hinges off for paint, and I put them all back on Saturday. I now remember why I hate hanging cabinet doors. All the alignments take forever for a dummy like me. I'm more block and tackle, vs. finesse.

3. In ponderizing about the floor, I realized that even though the big slide is flush, Teton actually recessed the center floor about 3/16 so that the tile would be flush with the slide. So to make the entire center of the coach flush with the slide, I would need to put in a second subfloor throughout the middle to raise it up. Now that I've spent more time ponderizing about it, I think I'm going to put a subfloor on the slide and just use roundnose on the edge. The entire slide will have a 1" lip. That's how Phil at NH said he would do wood floors on the slides when we talked to him, so I'm going to go with that.

 

Shannon

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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Lockmup68 Keep up the work and soon you will be done! It has been a weather crazy winter. Almost 65 here today. ECR just down the road. Surer Bowl then Daytona and presto Its close to April. Oh I forgot March and its Unknown Weather. I guess I'll just do one day at a time and let the weather take care of it's self. Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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My dining room slide has a 1" lip. It's a non issue.

good to hear. This is the plan. Flooring should be delivered today. Jumping on it tomorrow (while working full time). Conference calls on mute while laying floor! :)

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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