chooseopen Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 Hi All, Well my Volvo broke down on the side of the road for the first time a couple weeks ago. The coolant pipes that feed the cab and sleeper heaters ruptured. Anyone replaced this part? I am having a hell of a time with it! First, I figured out that I had to remove the front shock absorber to get enough clearance. Of course the top and bottom bolts were rusted. Even my 1" impact was no match. Ended up having to cut them off with a cutoff wheel. Anyways... I am finally trying to put the truck back to together and it seems that the Dorman 936-5502 aftermarket part doesnt fit very well. It is quite a bit bigger than the OEM part. The Dorman site claims it fits. They even boast that they improved on the OEM design by making it out of stainless. https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-vhd-vn-vnl-bunkhouse-heater-tube-dorman-936-5502/i/dmhcm00001 I am so tempted to just run a pair of 7/8 heater hose and do away with the pipe completely. Anyone else have any experience to share? 2007 Volvo VNL670, Singled, Air ride hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I have used the heat in the back maybe twice since I have owned my truck. Even when I have been in the midwest until after Christmas. I would consider just capping off both ends until a time when a Full winter would be spend in the snow and cold. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted December 28, 2016 Report Share Posted December 28, 2016 I am so tempted to just run a pair of 7/8 heater hose and do away with the pipe completely. I did just that with mine as a preemptive repair - simple two hour project . . . once you get the right parts!. I used 3/4" silicon heater hose along with a couple Sharkbite 3/4" elbows and valves secured with worm drive hose clamps. Routed and strapped hose with tie wraps to old pipe. Like Rod, I don't expect to use much so I put in valves to reduce the heat flow into the cab when warm weather and also a means to shut the supply should we have a downstream leak. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chooseopen Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hmmm decisions, decisions. I feel like I have invested quite a bit of time and money in this project already. Good to hear Jim & Wilma that you had success in bypassing your pipes with heater hose. Wish I talked to you before I bought that $150 part and then destroyed my shock absorber with a cutoff wheel!! 2007 Volvo VNL670, Singled, Air ride hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Problem I had was finding reasonable priced 3/4" elbows and valves. Ended up using Sharkbite pex fittings which I misused a bit but they work just fine. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
On The Road Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 I also replaced my with blue silicon heater hose. A lot easier when the lower panels are removed. I left the original heater pipes in place. Mine were not leaking but looked very rusted. Have not had a problem since I replaced them. "> 2001 610 Volvo -Volvo power 465HP/1650 -autoshift2009 Smart Passion / cross loaded on Volvo2014.5 Mobile Suite 41 RSSB4VOLUNTEER CHRISTIAN BUILDERS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chooseopen Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 And my bad luck continues. Apparently I ordered the wrong front shock part. I ordered a Gen II Front Shock Absorber Part#21436086 but didnt notice until just now that my truck apparently uses Part# 20485633. The weird thing is that this is listed as a Gen I part. I guess the lesson of the day is to ALWAYS check part numbers 2007 Volvo VNL670, Singled, Air ride hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hone eagle Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 Mine are pinched and welded shut ,theynhave been since before Gregg had it I suspect - always been a cold weather truck. 2005 volvo 670 freedomline singledNewmar Torrey Pine 34rskswoot woot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 I did mine out of 3/4" brass & silicone hose. Waste of time, just plug the things off & give the passengers a blanket 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.Sloan Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 How do you guys bleed the air out of the coolant system after replacing these pipes? Replacing mine on the ISX with new OEM pipes soon and have been wondering what the correct process for bleeding the coolant system is. Thanks -Jeff 2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster 2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK Full time June 2017 DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Probably just like a LGT system, leave the radiator cap off, crank the engine and turn on the sleeper heater, high idle the truck until the thermostat opens, it should purge itself. Jim's Adventures Old Spacecraft.... Who knows whats next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.Sloan Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 perfect, thanks! 2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster 2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK Full time June 2017 DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chooseopen Posted January 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2017 Just a little update. Last weekend I was able to put in some time/effort and got my truck put back together. The whole reassembly only took me about an hour. One new coolant pipe, new Monroe Gas Magnum shock absorber, and a few new bolts... The process of flushing and refilling the radiator was simple enough. I put in about 12 gallons of new ELC coolant. Here is all short video of the new parts/pieces installed. 2007 Volvo VNL670, Singled, Air ride hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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