tyates007 Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Looking to change out the bearings on my 2008 Mobile Suite in preparation for 2017 fun. Is there anything crazy I need other than bearings and a press to do the job? Thx for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCooter Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Large snap ring pliers. I freeze the cartridge before pressing them back into the hub just so it goes in with less force. 1999 Peterbilt 385 C12 430/1650 13spd 2006 Dodge 3500 DRW 4x4 2010 Hitchhiker Champagne 36 LKRSB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief 62 Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 When I owned my 2007 38RL3 Mobile Suite I ran into a problem early on with a bearing going bad from what appeared to be improper torqueing at the factory. Get yourself a good torque wrench and try to get the correct torque specs. You should take a good look at the brakes, rotors and brake calipers when you do it. If the brakes need attention that would be the time to do it. When my bearing went bad I had to also change the rotor since it tore up a lot. Gary & Penny 2015 Lance 1172 2005 Chevy 3500 2013 Bass Tracker 190 Pro Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sclord2002 Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Make sure that the new bearing is pressed in by applying pressure to the outer race only. I had my son make an arbor that was concave except for the contact area of the outer race to ensure no pressure was applied to the inner race. Freezing the bearing in dry ice will make the installation easier, like Cooter said. Some never-lubes require quite a bit of pressure to press out and in. If you can source the French or US bearings, I prefer them over the Chinese ones. Charlie. Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Tyrates, Â If you are doing it yourself, pressing out the bearing will take a different size arbor than pressing in the bearing. The back side of the hub has a lip to center the bearing. When pressing in be sure you are mainly on the outter casing or you risk destroying the bearing. I took mine to a skilled machine shop. I also put the bearings into the freezer overnight and the tech heated the hubs some to help. If I remember correctly the torque on the spindle nut is 145-150 ft/lbs. and as mentioned above have some good snap ring pliers because there is a large snap ring and a small one on the spindle. Here is a review of everything. Posting at same time as Charlie. I took mine to his hometown cause he knew what to do and where to get it done. http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/600-8K_Service_Manual/Hubs_Drums_and_Bearings.pdf 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" Â "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Personally I would just look up a Dexter axle service center and have them change the never lubes (I made the assumption you have Dexter axles). If you have any doubts get it done soon and don't wait. I lost a never lube last year and the entire wheel went out the back of the 5er. As a full timer I do not have the tools and after watching them change the old ones I would not attempt. They had a BIG press to get them in and out and had to use a torch to cut one of the snap rings because another bearing was getting ready to go and they could not get the snap ring out. And it is a big snap ring. Not that expensive to have done if you already have the bearings. Â I also have an opinion on carrying an additional hub with the bearing already pressed in. I would never try to change one on the side of the road. Besides that if you did not catch it soon enough and it failed like mine did you will need a new axle because the spindle is probably damaged also. Â Brad Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 Agree with Brad. I carry two extra hubs with the bearings already pressed in and extra, small snap rings and spindle nuts. I carry the tools to change out on the side of the road if necessary and if the spindle was not damaged. I actually went to Fastenal and have a die to fix the threads on the spindle if they are burred. Overkill, probably, but you will be sitting for a long time trying to find a shop that knows how to press in these bearings if they aren't familiar with them. Now as a disclaimer, if I ever change out my drum brakes and hubs, I'm going to revert to just standard bearings and I'll repack yearly. BTW if you source the non-Chinese NevRLubes please post it. I bought direct from Dexter and they were from China. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" Â "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted December 27, 2016 Report Share Posted December 27, 2016 I am with Brad on this one. Can't think of a more critical assembly. This is not the time for on the job training. You need tech/shop that has done this a bunch of times. No guarantee that they will do it correctly, but odds are in their favor. Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit 2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover 2008 Work and Play 34FK Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Thanks everyone for the replies. I don't think I have dexter axle and hubs. I'm pretty sure it is the Kodiak setup last time I checked them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad & Jacolyn Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Tyates007, I have no idea if they use the same thing in Kodiak as they do in Dexters but if it is a neverlube I would have to guess that everything that has been said would still apply. Just a different axle. Still need big press. Â Brad Brad and Jacolyn Tucker the Wonder dog and Brynn the Norfolk Terrier 2009 Smart "Joy" 2004 VNL630 "Vonda the Volvo" 2008 Hitch Hiker 35 CK Champagne Edition VED12 465 HP, Freedomline, 3.73 ratio, WB 218" Fulltiming and loving it. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newadventurers Posted December 29, 2016 Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 I just changed my never lube bearings in my 2008 DRV 36TK3. CHECK your axels mine were Lippert Axels. I ended up ordering Timken bearings from 123Roulement.com. I found out the 3 bearings that Dexter offers did not work on my Lippert 7000# axels.... I had a engine machine shop press them on and off... Terry and Lindsey and our Border Collie Daisy Mae 2008 Select Suites 36 TK3 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab DRW Fulltimers since May 20, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Thanks again for all the help. I will get the bearings ordered and then see what happens. Is there a better way to check these sealed bearings than just checking for wheel movement and listening to them during my annual check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 2 or 3 pages down tells the amount of play that is acceptable. http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/600-8K_Service_Manual/Nev-R-Lube_Bearings.pdf Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Thank you all for the documentation as well. Appreciate all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newadventurers Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 DRV used Lippert axels in 2008... Dexter components won't work... the torque then to 150-155lbs... Terry and Lindsey and our Border Collie Daisy Mae 2008 Select Suites 36 TK3 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab DRW Fulltimers since May 20, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Correct. They are Lippert. I will have to get the bearings for the Kodiak disc brakes. Everything else looks very similar to the Dexter install from a process perspective. Think I will purchase bearings and see what install will cost me at shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 So I contacted Lippert. I am being told that my axles sound like they are the sbs, sealed bearing system which are now obsolete. My only option is to switch axles. I am going to try and contact Kodiak who is the disc brake and hub to see if they still have parts. I really don't want to change the whole axle out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 I would take a set of old bearings or hub with bearings to a bearing supply house. I can't believe there's anything special about them. I'll wager a 12 pack of Dr. Pepper that there at least six different bearings that meet spec. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 I would take a set of old bearings or hub with bearings to a bearing supply house. I can't believe there's anything special about them. I'll wager a 12 pack of Dr. Pepper that there at least six different bearings that meet spec. My thoughts exactly. I did get a response from Kodiak today saying they stock all the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief 62 Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Try a local NAPA store. NAPA has many resources for getting bearings. I know because I work at one. Gary & Penny 2015 Lance 1172 2005 Chevy 3500 2013 Bass Tracker 190 Pro Team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickW Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 I agree check with NAPA first. I have Kodiak disks but not never lubes. I have had no issues in getting bearings and seals from NAPA for my I/S setup. Now NAPA was unable to find the wheel studs that are used on my Kodiak disks. I had to go to eTrailer to find the correct studs. Â With as many never lube bearings being used on so many different types of trailers I would be very surprised if NAPA is unable to source the bearings. 2017 Entegra Anthem 44A SOLD -Â 2004 Volvo 780. 465hp and 10sp Auto Shift (from 2010~2017) SOLD - 2009 Montana 3400RL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newadventurers Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 When I went to change my bearings on my 2008 DRV Lippert said that they did not have the bearings either. I ordered my bearings from 123Roulement.com. I got Timken bearings #JXC25469CA cost $60.00 each with a new c clip # CIRCLIP-INT-85 for $8.10each.... These fit the best and in my research, for these bearings, are not available in the USA until next month.... I then took the drums to a machine shop where they pressed out the old bearings then machined in a new grove for the C-clip and pressed in the new bearings on their 20 ton press. The reason is that the new bearings are about 1/4inch longer than the OEM part. It cost me $250 for the machine shop. It works great and went back together without issue.... Â On a separate not I HATE anything Lippert. They do not stand behind their products, and make crappy products as well.... We are in the process of buying a new DRV and all summer long we heard one horror story after another about issues with their frames and how they do not know how to hangs Moreride suspensions and Kodiak brakes on new DRV's. There jack systems are failing to the extent that when I get mine I will either modify it or put on another system to replace it... Terry and Lindsey and our Border Collie Daisy Mae 2008 Select Suites 36 TK3 2015 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn Crew Cab DRW Fulltimers since May 20, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyates007 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Try a local NAPA store. NAPA has many resources for getting bearings. I know because I work at one. Thanks Chief Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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