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Bludot ABS help


Heavymetal

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Has anyone installed the Bludot w/ABS? I received my Bludot air/hydraulic brake kit today and am sorting through everything and I had some questions.

 

I would ask the techs at Bludot but they never answer their phone and it took me three calls and five days for them to return my call so I could order their product and I would like to install this tomorrow.

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Do you have ABS on the **trailer** ? Commercial trailers may have it, but especially a 2005 Newmar, I seriously doubt it. The truck doesn't care what you have behind it, & the BluDot system is totally (electrically) independent from the truck. The truck thinks it's pulling a non-abs older trailer. PM me if I can help.

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Do you have ABS on the **trailer** ? Commercial trailers may have it, but especially a 2005 Newmar, I seriously doubt it. The truck doesn't care what you have behind it, & the BluDot system is totally (electrically) independent from the truck. The truck thinks it's pulling a non-abs older trailer. PM me if I can help.

No the RV does not have ABS I bought the ABS kit with the Bludot.

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I told ya to get the Tucson! :wacko: Just kidding.

 

Are there wheel speed sensors in the kit. If there's no sensor or reluctor wheel to measure wheel speed and BluDot just provides a modulator valve, there isn't anything to signal the valve.

No wheel sensors that's why I was asking! The instructions show it with and without that's what had me miffed. I will give them till tomorrow to return my call and if they don't I'll return their kit.

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IIRC there was about a $100 difference between the ABS system and the regular system. And the other guys have it correct, your trailer, I believe, does not have an ABS system on it, so you don't need the BlueDot system for ABS.

 

And I know Ron knows this, but there is nothing electrical about your new Bluedot system, without the need for ABS.

 

What I don't know is if what they sent you is the regular base system with some type of addition, or is there a special base system when ABS is involved. It may not be as simple as sending just the ABS parts back to them.

 

You've probably posted this before, but what brakes (whose brakes) do you have on the Newmar? That will also decide which Bluedot system you need.

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IIRC there was about a $100 difference between the ABS system and the regular system. And the other guys have it correct, your trailer, I believe, does not have an ABS system on it, so you don't need the BlueDot system for ABS.

 

And I know Ron knows this, but there is nothing electrical about your new Bluedot system, without the need for ABS.

 

What I don't know is if what they sent you is the regular base system with some type of addition, or is there a special base system when ABS is involved. It may not be as simple as sending just the ABS parts back to them.

 

You've probably posted this before, but what brakes (whose brakes) do you have on the Newmar? That will also decide which Bluedot system you need.

I have two Dexter 10k axles with tandem dually's with the Dexter disc brakes. I told the the rep with Bludot what I had and he sent the A/H 2S/1M actuating kit with the RV-4002 ABS valve.

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It is safer to get the axle/outer end mfgr's sensor kit anyways so you know the block fits the clip, which fits the sensor, and it all stays in place. A universal kit from the valve guys doesn't always fit anyways. Can you keep the ABS kit and then buy a set of Dexter sensors, clips, and a couple of rotors with the tone wheel pressed in? Can you get a tone wheel only and press it into existing rotors? You only have to do the fwd axle. Do you have to add an ABS light on the back LH of the trailer? How does the ECU wire? Does it use the standard 5 pin trailer harness or do you have to hand wire it?

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It is safer to get the axle/outer end mfgr's sensor kit anyways so you know the block fits the clip, which fits the sensor, and it all stays in place. A universal kit from the valve guys doesn't always fit anyways. Can you keep the ABS kit and then buy a set of Dexter sensors, clips, and a couple of rotors with the tone wheel pressed in? Can you get a tone wheel only and press it into existing rotors? You only have to do the fwd axle. Do you have to add an ABS light on the back LH of the trailer? How does the ECU wire? Does it use the standard 5 pin trailer harness or do you have to hand wire it?

Ok Scrap I knew I would find the right person to answer this question. I think you have hit on the right questions in your post I really don't won't to piece mill my brakes I do want to have ABS, but for now I will stick with what I have. I plan on removing the Dexter axles when I have collected enough cans to pay for the Mor/ryde IS anyway and they told me to give them about four months to gather all the parts for the tandem dual setup. I just wanted some type of ABS in the interim, I really don't won't to see my RV out the side window durring an emergency stop. You know it's not only hard on my DW's nerves but also on my paint job.

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The difference in towing the Teton with your new Western Star vs an LGT is huge. If the Teton's current brakes work at all, the truck will take care of the rest with ease.

Having the ABS would be nice, but in my opinion not required with the HDT.

Brakes work fine I just don't won't them locking up during an emergency stop and have my RV ending up beside my truck. The truck having ABS disc and not the RV seems to be asking for trouble. I guess I could replace my hydraulic brake booster with one that has the ABS module on it or adjust my trailer brakes to apply after my truck brakes do, but then I have no way to stop a swaying RV without taking my hand off the Steering wheel to manually apply the brakes.

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It looks like the sensor kit is fairly obtainable. Add# 70-006-2 for a rotor with a couple tone wheels already set in it if you want to do it that way.

 

http://www.dexterpartsonline.com/page/405037606

 

For the power harnesses. You'll need to pick and choose the right one since an RV will probably be short on the power side and long on the ABS light side. That is the exact opposite of a 'normal' install. It'll plug right into your ECU connector and then wire the blunt ends to the back of the trailer nosebox. Be sure power comes from the center pin of the tractor.

 

https://www.haldex.com/en/na/abs/anti-lock-braking-system---trailer/power-adapters-cables--cords-/full-power-cables/

 

For the speed sensor extensions. I can't say I've ever worked with a 40ft ABS sensor before, but the last one on the list is probably what you need.

 

https://www.haldex.com/en/na/abs/anti-lock-braking-system---trailer/sensor-extensions/universal-sensor-extensions/

 

You should post pics of your pile of parts so far. The books look like you get a Haldex PLC Select ECU on top of your relay valve. If so, that a real common, easy to install, trailer ECU that will plug right in with the harnesses above and work straight up with the trailer ABS light in your dash. Again, be sure power comes direct (no relays, no relayed power, no trailer 12V) from the center pin of the tractor or it won't work. Any truck dealer should be able to get these parts if you give them the Haldex #'s.

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