winching my new Smart

[GlennWest]

I dug out the tow bolt on my new Smart. It is way beefer than my 2013 bolt was. I am planning to winch my car from this point. Will be a straight pull, no side load. Winch from rear. I know many of you advise against this. I'm going to try it though. How high a pulley are ya'll using to clear deck enough. Planning to put a cutting board on deck just in case.

[hone eagle]

Going from memory the pulley is close to 2' above to deck, however 99% of the time I just drive it up and down.

I can get a exact dimension tomorrow if you want.

[SuiteSuccess]

My riser pulley is 18" which gives a level pull when the car breaks onto the deck.. I use synthetic rope and it touches bed only briefly at the start. I have a cone pulley on the ramp side in which the rope rides during that time to keep it from fraying or cutting. These may work better for you than a bread board to protect your bed.

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/site-search?keywords=Strap+protector

[GlennWest]

I was thinking about the plastic cutting board. I still have the steel cable on mine. Will be ordering spool for rope and rope later. I will make mine 18" based on your suggestion.

[rickeieio]

I really like Darryl's idea (winch on the car). I'll be doing that over the winter.

[GlennWest]

Don't believe it is doable on a new Smart. Only 1 bolt hole on rear.

[Dennis M]

Winch pulley is level with tow hooks. I have a roller in pillow block bearings on the edge of deck for winch cable.

 

The body panels on the smarts are quite easy to remove. You might look and I bet there is still a second bolt hole under the panel.

[GlennWest]

GeorgiaHybrid pulled the panel on his. No hole on passenger side, just drivers

[rdickinson]

You can come under the bumper with a small receiver then a pull ring on a pull bar with a riser or come thru the bumper. My guess is over the muffler then a cut out thru the bumper. I'll find out in a couple of weeks when mine gets done.

 

Tiedowns have been altered to fit bigger tires, old ones were 22" diameter, new ones are 24". That's why tiedowns wouldn't sit down tite over tire.

 

Modifications to chocks, tiedowns and relocating ramps is going on now.

[SuiteSuccess]

Hey Glenn, measure your eyebolt from the ground on a level surface before you accept my suggestion of 18". That is what the measure was on my 2013 smart. Your new smart may be higher.

[Jack Mayer]

Glenn, when you say "new smart" if you mean a 2016 or newer, that does not have the two tiedown bolt holes, then just drive it up/down.

 

That is what I am doing and it is simple with that generation vehicle. The car has plenty of power to stop on the ramps and restart. So you can take it as easy as you want. Drive on from the passenger side...drive off from the drivers side of the truck. OR if you want you can simply back off the passenger side....we have done everything but drive up backwards...which is not happening with me, anyway. HERE is a link to video of going off backwards. Normally we drive off forwards, but I wanted to see the implications of backing off....and, of course, my frind Marc was driving....so if there were issues the only thing *I* had at risk was my car

 

I was serious when I said I would no longer winch at all. It is trivial to drive on/off with the new car....even with 12" ramps.

[GlennWest]

Jack I never come on straight. I thought with practice I would but alas not. It is a little crowded up there with new Smart. That is why I doing this.

[Larry&Donna-AK]

Glenn, when you say "new smart" if you mean a 2016 or newer, that does not have the two tiedown bolt holes, then just drive it up/down.

 

That is what I am doing and it is simple with that generation vehicle. The car has plenty of power to stop on the ramps and restart. So you can take it as easy as you want. Drive on from the passenger side...drive off from the drivers side of the truck. OR if you want you can simply back off the passenger side....we have done everything but drive up backwards...which is not happening with me, anyway. HERE is a link to video of going off backwards. Normally we drive off forwards, but I wanted to see the implications of backing off....and, of course, my frind Marc was driving....so if there were issues the only thing *I* had at risk was my car

 

I was serious when I said I would no longer winch at all. It is trivial to drive on/off with the new car....even with 12" ramps.

Nice...do you have a driving up video to share.

[Jack Mayer]

Nice...do you have a driving up video to share.

I do not. But Gregg does. He shot it at the Rally as we loaded. So you should see it some time....when he gets caught up with the backlog from being away from home/business for a month.

[rdickinson]

Glen, my car gets loaded straight 50% of the time, most of them it's not bad enough to roll down, straighten up then reload. There are 2 sets of holes in the deck, one pair closer to the edge of the truck and also the boltholes in the base of the chocks have been lengthened and slightly widened to allow for twisting of the chock to compensate for the "twisted car" syndrome.

Yesterday I backed the car up the ramps without the aid of a nearby dirt bank to reduce ramp angle. Pucker factor was significant. It doesn't matter if the wheels are straight and the steering wheel bar is horizontal, if you are not perpendicular to the truck you can drive off the ramps. Feet need to be on both the brake and throttle at the same time, add to that the rt hand on the emergency brake. With these new '17's, the brake deactivates the throttle. If foot brake or emergency brake is released and you are not super quick on the throttle, I'd roll backwards. If you boot the throttle, there is a risk of spinning the wheels which in my case sent me sideways a bit.

My last try was done from a slightly running start to jump on the ramps then all the way up and over the hump onto the deck in 1 try then pull on the emergency brake when on the deck. The winch "A" frame was put in the passengers side just in case I fouled up and was going to jump the rear chocks.

 

You also need to factor in the proximity of the truck fairings to the mirror when loading and unloading. You gain 1.5" or so with the mirror folded in.

 

Driving of not so much of a problem, I move the seat fwd, sit on a jacket and watch the front wheel out the window to keep lined up. The new car scrapes the black air dam at the front, the old one missed by about 1.5" and that is without the angle iron in the ramp hinge to reduce breakover angle and yes the bags were dumped. That drops the truck 4" or so. Looks like race ramps are on the Xmas to do list. Probably out of 1" thick rubber so they can also be used to level the trailer.

 

Mine is getting a hitch fabricated as we speak, something like one of the other members posted. We will either come thru the rear black plastic below the bumper with a small receiver then add a riser like Dr Pepper, I think, or the second method is to come out thru the bumper above the muffler, not sure yet. There will be 6 grade 12 bolts holding the hitch on so strength is not an issue.

 

Too risky to drive up all the time, and in reverse....forget it. Speed, momentum plus reaction time and U Tube are the enemy. The hitch will also take my bike rack so that is a plus.

 

The new toy will get winched on thank you, others can do as the see fit. Too much time, money and effort has been spent on the upgrades to the "17" to take risks.

 

The gent doing the work is the Parts Manager at Three Point Motors in Victoria which is Canada's # 1 Smart dealer, he is also a Machinist so the job will be done properly.

 

Roger

[Jack Mayer]

Here is my opinion for what it is worth. 2016 smart. Drive on. Drive off.

 

I drive on from the passenger side of the truck. To do this, the chocks on the front side of the car HAVE to be cut down to 4". They then miss the rubber air dam...that is not on the gen1 smarts. Place the "front" (truck driver side) smart chocks in place and simply drive up until you (gently) hit them. There is no issue driving up from the truck passenger side - other than carrying the ramps around to it. The only "issue" is half way up when you seem to be pointing to the sky. Simply look out the window until you get over the arch in the ramps. Slowly and gently throttle on. The Gen2 car has plenty of power. It will roll back if you let off the throttle, but gentle throttle control overcomes that.

 

DO NOT try to back up the ramps. That is not safe - again, MY opinion. You can drive off forward, or back off.Your choice and both work about as well...I prefer to drive off forward. Plus, that means I don't have to carry the ramps around the truck.

 

I have my chock bolt holes slotted out for adjustment. Plus if the car is off of one chock a half inch or so it is fine. the nets hold it down.It does not have to be against all 4 chocks to be safe.

[rdickinson]

Driving on from the passengers side with the original bolt holes would have worked for the 17 as the are close enough for both front and rear wheels to hit with enough safety margin. We had welded new plates to the rear chocks and re drilled them for deck attachment. The cars' drivers side was moved to the left of the car and both moved rearward as the car is wider and longer.

 

The idea was to back the car on and up to the rear chocks which had already been positioned then set up the front chocks which is what we did.

 

Agreed, backing on is not safe. Arnie had me lined up dead on the numbers and I watched him, nothing else. After a couple of tries and minor adjustments, it was up and over.

 

The ht of my chocks is not an issue, coming off and the nose hitting the dirt is but not by much.

 

The 2017 Smarts have a couple of ht options, not sure whether mine is the higher or lower. Something about Sport suspension. Mine was the only ragtop in or coming in until next April so I took it and did the outside color switch, upholstery changes and electronics modifications later.

 

My '06 does have a black plastic pce below the front, whether that is an air dam by definition, I'm not sure but can find out tomorrow when Three Point opens.

 

If the ramps were 15" wide, I'd consider driving up.

[Jack Mayer]

Roger, I was hesitant about driving up the 12" ramps. But the big difference in the gen1 and Gen2 cars is the tires are inline with the gen2. Believe it or not, that gives you more leeway with the position on the 12" ramps. Try it...it is not an issue.

[Brad & Jacolyn]

I have been driving my 2009 smart up and down for 5 years on 12" ramps. It is not bad really. Run the front wheels up on the ramp and see exactly where they have to be. If need be put a mark on the drivers side ramp to follow. Then turn around and back up on the ramps a bit. This will tell you where the rear wheels hit the ramp. That is all the info you need for driving up and backing down. I slide my back up the seat and look at the front tire and drive right up. Same with backing it back down. Mine is also set up to go from either side. All of 2 - 3 seconds on the ramps.

 

Like Jack said this is just my opinion of the way to do it but it is not hard.

 

Brad

[rdickinson]

I'll give it a try, drive up one side and off the other.

[billr]

I'll give it a try, drive up one side and off the other.

Move the ramps first eh??????

[rdickinson]

I thought of that after posting wondering if anyone would catch my flawed Hinglish. Funny to think about...the new car driven off the passengers side standing on its new square nose, rear wheels spinning. Kinda like movies with a ship sinking and the props still turning.

 

That would make a good 'T'shirt logo.

[GlennWest]

Roger, I was hesitant about driving up the 12" ramps. But the big difference in the gen1 and Gen2 cars is the tires are inline with the gen2. Believe it or not, that gives you more leeway with the position on the 12" ramps. Try it...it is not an issue.

You stated tires are in line on gen 2. I forget what the exact measurements was but there is inches difference in front and rear on my 2016.

[HERO Maker]

You stated tires are in line on gen 2. I forget what the exact measurements was but there is inches difference in front and rear on my 2016.

From the inside of your front tires to the outside of your rear tires is 10 inches, depending on your tires.

 

Sorry, this would be for models prior to 2016.

[GlennWest]

I measured them to relocate stops. Several inches wider in front than rear. Center line of tires