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rdickinson

Old smart to new tie downs

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Loaded the '17 Smart yesterday. Obviously the footprint is different from the Gen 1 Diesel so the tiedown and ratchets need to be relocated.

The ratchets were thinking of welding a plate to the bottom of the existing chocks because doubled up deck plate under doesn't come close enough to the outside of the deck to give double thickness to fasten to or through.

The 'D' rings put on initially, well only one works out and that is the right rear or the one closest to the passengers side fairing. None of the others work out.

 

So the question is, what type of tie down system to use? Things have evolved since 'D' rings. I'm thinking of a type of track, maybe along the lines of BMZero's. There are a few online one system comes in 8 or 13" wide by 30" long pcs which would cover existing, maybe, and provide a more flexible system.

 

The old 'D'ring system is raised above the deck by maybe an 1/8 or more so that needs to be taken into consideration if I want to cover any of them up. I'd rather not grind welds and make a hatchet job out of it to remove existing and welding from top or bottom would probably melt the deck coating.

 

Nothing is carved in stone so ideas are welcome.

 

Thanks

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I've said it before, banjo holes. Nice flat surface, nothing to trip over. Worse feeling in the world when a slight stumble on a deck surface makes you totter toward the edge.

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Darryl has a point. Many of the commercial car haulers have punched hole decking and their strap hooks tip into the holes and pull against the underside of the deck. There are lots of hooks but something like this might work. http://www.ctscargotiedown.com/index.php?search=38186. Or you could cut keyhole slots and drop a chain in the hole.

Holes in the deck would also help with drainage considering where you live most of the year.

 

Nigel

Edited by Nigel

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The deck is 1/4" material and no great way to punch holes. Torching is't an option as it will melt deck cover material. also edge of deck will be exposed to rust maybe loosening Rhino covering or whatever it is.

At this point, I'm leaning towards a track system but not E-Track found inside commercial trailers. -Track was suggested and turned down some time ago as I recall.

 

A single narrow rail can be thru bolted and mounted beside existing 'D' rings.

 

http://www.superclamp.net/supertrac.asp

Edited by Roger Dickinson

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Do you have a picture of what you currently have on how much you have to move?

 

It sounds like your current d-rings are welded to deck. Can you mount new ones with bolts or do you need to still cut a hole to recess them some?

 

One thought without seeing what you havr would be add another attaching point and connect a chain to that point and the existing d-ring and the attach your tie downs to the chain.

 

Dave

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Do you have a picture of what you currently have on how much you have to move?

 

I can send by regular e-mail but not Photobucket forum friendly

 

It sounds like your current d-rings are welded to deck. Can you mount new ones with bolts or do you need to still cut a hole to recess them some?

 

Current ones are welded to the deck and would make a mess cutting them loose. In looking at them a recess would have to be cut for the D ring itself so yes they would have to have a hole cut.

 

One thought without seeing what you havr would be add another attaching point and connect a chain to that point and the existing d-ring and the attach your tie downs to the chain.

 

Good thought but the front rt is only 3" out so i'ts half a tie down footprint out so there would be over lap..wouldn't look good.

 

I spoke to Randall, the boss at Superclamp in Calgary, he wants pics of the deck tie down pattern as it is now. Also wants a pic of the car on the deck. I have a pic of a 2016 on the deck taken last May.

 

Were leaning towards the black non skid skidoo pads to maybe cover existing tiedowns if needed and the Supertrack as a means to secure the car to deck. Baskets will need to be enlarged as tires on '17 are bigger and hook will have to be changed.

 

Ratchets and chocks have to be pushed further out to the sides of the truck 'cus footprint is longer. Deck is 98" wide.

 

We'll make it work. I can get under the deck and attach nuts to bolts coming thru.

Dave

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I use bolt on d rings. My weld in one's didn't work out. Not surprisingly though. I was hundreds of miles from builder. But they work nicely. I drill and tap. Has enough thread to hold good.3\16 decking. And if you don't trust the amount of threads put a nut on bottom. Just relocated mine today for new Smartcar since mine was totaled monday. Set mine close to cab as possible, will have to fold mirrors next to cab. Left fairings in place. Intend to add a drom box later. My Smart measured 4' 10" in front and 4' 8" in rear to centerline of tires. I had to relocate all 4 stops in order to get rv turning clearance.

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Thanks Glen, that is another option. I'll look them up.

 

First thing is to get the rear chocks re positioned then the front ones which will use the same holes as the ramps. The hook end of the basket cage can wait until the guy in Calgary gets back to me with options. There is only Saturdays to work on this as the car is at Audio, Upholsterer and FX Graphics during the week. Then after that the hitch has to be done.

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Try Jeff at Snapping Turtle. Buddy of mine in PA, manufactures tie down systems. They stock every off the shelf strap configuration, plus every kind of track and attaching hardware. The best part is he can custom build any strap configuration you need, and is in the business of doing that for show cars, exotic car transporters, race cars (think Penske, that has every kind of racecar there is to deal with). If you can't dream it up, he can. Not a sales pitch, just a recommendation to a friend that can help you.

 

www.snappingturtle.com

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HR, Thanks, looks like most of the same products advertised out of Calgary. Sent off an e-mail anyway. He may have other options.

 

R

Edited by Roger Dickinson

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Radar, I must have glossed over that site, I remember the vehicle hanging but missed the tiedowns. This is the simplest method of all so far. Also the smallest footprint.

 

It has been fwded to Arnie the fabricator.

 

Thanks, much appreciated

 

R.

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The Versa tie-down points work well. I have used them in the past. You can also use standard surface mount L track and easily drive over it. Either works and is relatively easy to mount. Just make sure enough bolts are used and a backing washer.

 

My wheel baskets fit fine on the new car. I'm a little surprised yours do not. For now I'm able to use the chock points at the rear of the truck and it works OK. But they are not lined up correctly. That does not really matter....they can pull at a slight angle. A longer term solution would have them straight, though.

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Hadn't tried my baskets yet. Had not thought it would be an issue. Better basket them this evening. I didn't move my d rings either. Close enough.

Edited by Glenn West

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Thanks for the nod! For what it's worth Colin Maclemore, the owner of Mac's and I, have talked quite a bit since I reached out to him about our Smart car needs a year or so ago. I completely trust his products without hesitation. They have worked well for me and are very flexible.

 

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Any hole you drill will require touching up the coating. I understand not wanting to use a torch or plasma in making T hook Banjo holes.. Why not use a metal hole saw to drill a larger hole, and a regular drill to drill a smaller hole, and a jigsaw or sawzall to cut between them. A small die grinder would touch up the cuts, and then touch up the edges with paint / bedliner.

 

Or just use the hole saw to inset new D rings. Just a suggestion.

 

Not near as sweet as the above track systems, but simple to do.

Edited by Jeff- C IL

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Roger

Take a look at the D rings from Macs. We used the Versa Tie down System http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/versatie-anchor-plate-pack-25x15-machine-screws/D-Rings. They are a little pricey but well worth it.

 

I've used Mac's for years. Call and talk to them, they will steer you in right direction. Their stuff just plain works.

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HR, Thanks, looks like most of the same products advertised out of Calgary. Sent off an e-mail anyway. He may have other options.

 

R

In the catalog, you are correct. But call him. He is a custom manufacturer and can make any configuration of strap, wheel bonnet, or whatever you can dream up. Car guy, been in the business a long time, and they've done a lot of one off stuff.

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Macs also supports the various communities (4x4, drag, roundy-round, etc.) by attending events, wheeling with you, and also doing cool demonstrations of this products. In this one, they hung Colin's personal jeep strapped down to the trailer and hung it from a crane for all of Jeep Safari week.

 

I really love the custom low-boy trailer he built too.

 

Edited by Lockmup68

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Darryl has a point. Many of the commercial car haulers have punched hole decking and their strap hooks tip into the holes and pull against the underside of the deck. There are lots of hooks but something like this might work. http://www.ctscargotiedown.com/index.php?search=38186. Or you could cut keyhole slots and drop a chain in the hole.

Holes in the deck would also help with drainage considering where you live most of the year.

 

Nigel

I'm leaning towards the 2 bolt bolt ons for ease of installation.

 

Re the weather, I just looked up your location. Down to 28f tonight, Vic will be in the low to mid 50's for the next few days. Re the precip, at least I don't have to shovel it.

 

The hooks will be along the lines of what your link provides.

 

My wheel baskets fit fine on the new car. I'm a little surprised yours do not.

 

My original car is a 2006, the new one is a 2017. The tire cage sits on top of the new tire leaving a big gap between the top of the tire and the inside of the strap.

 

Thanks

Edited by Roger Dickinson

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