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How to remove fridge from 630!?


Jeff.Sloan

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Today was demo day (I love demo day!) in the cab of my new 2004 630 and I was able to get both bunks and all the compartments except the fridge. I can't figure out what I am missing. I removed the two 12mm bolts on the floor behind the drivers seat, the two 13mm nuts on the inside back of the compartment. The two small Allen heads from the left inside of the fridge door jamb, and the one Torx at the bottom of the fridge door jamb under the rubber grommet. I am trying to get to the remaining 12mm bolts that are underneath the fridge into the cab floor but the fridge won't come out.

 

post-8344-0-94537300-1474259563_thumb.jpg

Can anyone tell me how to get the fridge out!? I was pulling on it pretty hard and relieved it of it's door, but I can't figure our how to get the fridge assembly out of the cabinet. Am I just not pulling hard enough? Any wisdom or help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Jeff

 

P.S. Anyone need cheap 630 interior parts? This stuff won't last long before it goes to the trash bin.

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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Today was demo day (I love demo day!) in the cab of my new 2004 630 and I was able to get both bunks and all the compartments except the fridge. I can't figure out what I am missing. I removed the two 12mm bolts on the floor behind the drivers seat, the two 13mm nuts on the inside back of the compartment. The two small Allen heads from the left inside of the fridge door jamb, and the one Torx at the bottom of the fridge door jamb under the rubber grommet. I am trying to get to the remaining 12mm bolts that are underneath the fridge into the cab floor but the fridge won't come out.

 

attachicon.gifdemo day web.jpg

Can anyone tell me how to get the fridge out!? I was pulling on it pretty hard and relieved it of it's door, but I can't figure our how to get the fridge assembly out of the cabinet. Am I just not pulling hard enough? Any wisdom or help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Jeff

 

P.S. Anyone need cheap 630 interior parts? This stuff won't last long before it goes to the trash bin.

 

Hi Jeff,

 

I am sorry to say that I can not help you with your fridge. I thought I remember reading about someone removing there fridge over a year ago. May be do a search in the hdt section. Maybe the person that was removing their fridge was Refuzn-To-Grow-Up.

 

I have a question for you. Are you planning to remove the back wall in the sleeper area ? If so, can you post how you did it. I think that the back wall might be held on using Velcro. I have a need to remove the rear wall in the sleeper in my truck, that is the reason for the question.

 

Best of luck with removing your fridge,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Just ordered up this brand new 2016 Ford Transit van rear seat on eBay to put into the Volvo. (Click on the image for big picture)

 

post-8344-0-45021700-1474343654_thumb.jpg

 

It's 62" wide and the cab interior is 72" wide. Should be a nice fit and provide safe seating for five total in the cab. Cab side windows are next. Hoping to find a pair of the 28" x 18" Freightliner Columbia windows with retainer rings for easy install. What tool is recommended for cutting the cab sheet metal once everything is marked out?

 

Thanks for the feedback on the fridge, I bet it is on sliders that I just didn't pull hard enough on. I will try again tomorrow night.

 

I'll also snap a few pics of the back wall interior panels as well once I get them off.

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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alan

 

The rear wall is held in place with dura-lock (super velcro). Remove the belts and just pull it out

 

Hi Forxlr8n,

 

Thank you. I thought that might be the case. This going to help.

 

 

Hi Jeff,

 

This is just an idea that I want to through out there. You are doing some nice work in your truck. Have you ever thought about adding some sound deadening material to the walls and floor of the truck ? I have used a material called Rattle Trap before that you can buy on E-Bay. At the time they seemed to have the best prices. I have no connections with them at all. This is just an idea. If you take out the seat belt bolts be very careful that the nuts do not brake loose from the truck. Don't ask me how I know this. It is a two person job. One person under the truck with heat on the nuts and the second person in the cab with a ratchet. Keep a wet rag handy.

 

Keep up the good work and post some pictures,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Jeff;

The refrig is mounted on a slide track. Bottom & Top are affixed to the truck, middle piece (the slide) is mounted to the refrig. Once the bolts are out, the expectation would have been to just slide it out.

 

Fat chance of that if your truck isn't brand new. It's rusted in place. There is no Joy and No Easy Way. Use a pry bar very carefully to push it side to side to break the "hold" - seriously, I broke the front cabinet on this step. Now use a heavy strap out the passenger door and in the luggage door. (Pad your paint) Wrap a strap around the base of the refrig and put a ratchet of some kind between the two straps and tighten it up. Wiggle the fridge. You may need to drive a mechanical hacksaw blade down in the slide area. PB Blaster helps. Keep wiggling and tightening. Cursing helps.

 

BTW - The bolts for the fridge are all in the front. Don't remember if there are two or four, but the point is any other bolts are to hold the slide frame in place and are not directly connected to the refrig.

 

If you don't understand what I'm trying to explain, send a pm with a phone #

 

Good Luck

 

Paul

 

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin

2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler

2013 Smart Passion

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Thanks Paul this is great. I am hoping to get back to this tonight. I will try your recommendation and probably mix in the BFH and/or swazall for extra fun.

 

I will be sure to share some pics :-D

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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Hi Forxlr8n,

 

Thank you. I thought that might be the case. This going to help.

 

 

Hi Jeff,

 

This is just an idea that I want to through out there. You are doing some nice work in your truck. Have you ever thought about adding some sound deadening material to the walls and floor of the truck ? I have used a material called Rattle Trap before that you can buy on E-Bay. At the time they seemed to have the best prices. I have no connections with them at all. This is just an idea. If you take out the seat belt bolts be very careful that the nuts do not brake loose from the truck. Don't ask me how I know this. It is a two person job. One person under the truck with heat on the nuts and the second person in the cab with a ratchet. Keep a wet rag handy.

 

Keep up the good work and post some pictures,

Al

 

Thanks Al, I am planning to use "redneck Dynamat" all through the interior:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fortifiber-6-in-x-75-ft-FortiFlash-25-Mil-05020/202094346

 

I've done it on several other cars over the years with great results. It works as well as real Dynamat and is a fraction of the cost.

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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Jeff,

 

I have looked at that product once before for a small project and pulled up the safety sheet. Think it is safe for long term use in a closed environment? Not criticizing your selection just asking for my own education. Contains asphalt. Any lingering smell?

http://www.fortifiber.com/pdf/sds/sds_fortiflash.pdf

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

"Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!"

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Jeff,

 

I have looked at that product once before for a small project and pulled up the safety sheet. Think it is safe for long term use in a closed environment? Not criticizing your selection just asking for my own education. Contains asphalt. Any lingering smell?

http://www.fortifiber.com/pdf/sds/sds_fortiflash.pdf

 

That is the reason why I used Rattle Trap myself. The price on E-Bay seemed to be good. On some of the car sites guys talk about the asphalt product and they say there is a smell to it on hot days. I have not used any asphalt product in a car or truck. So I have no idea if there is a smell. I am just going off from what I read.

 

Jeff, good luck with your build and please post some pictures.

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Yeah I have read these types of comments over the years as well. I have been working on four wheelers for ~20 years and have used this in 2 or 3 of my cars already, never had any odor issues. I had done a little research years ago and found one article that seems to state asphalt needs to be around 300-400 degrees F to off gas. I personally have never had issues in the cars that I have done.

 

Edit: Here one article that talks about it:

http://assets.cmp.bh.mxmcloud.com/system/7ee1805bb02ce6000b88393adfdad986_npra-q-a-d3_1010_draper.pdf

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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Hi Jeff,

 

I have a question or too for you. In the picture that you posted it looks like the storage cabinet behind the passenger seat has been removed. How hard of a job was it ? How many screws or bolts need to be removed ? Does the top section need to be removed first or can the whole cabinet come out together ? I have a need to remove mine for now.

 

Any help would be appreciated,

Al

 

PS; Thank you for posting the article

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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yeah that came out pretty easy. Three bolts on the floor, two nuts on the back/sidewall about waist high, and a couple up top I think. I was able to get mine out as a unit. The bolts on the floor can be hard to get out. Someone here suggested heat, that's a great way to go. I go under the truck and scrape them down with a wire brush and spray some WD40 or thread penetrating oil on them. Unless they are rusted real bad often that is enough. I did break one bolt off on the fridge side, but that's OK I have no plans to put anything back in the hole. It's an easy way to plug the hole in the floor that's for sure hahah

 

Tomorrow morning I'll finally get a change to get back out there. I've decided to take the fridge/cabinet out in pieces with my sawzall. Fun pics coming soon :)

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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yeah that came out pretty easy. Three bolts on the floor, two nuts on the back/sidewall about waist high, and a couple up top I think. I was able to get mine out as a unit. The bolts on the floor can be hard to get out. Someone here suggested heat, that's a great way to go. I go under the truck and scrape them down with a wire brush and spray some WD40 or thread penetrating oil on them. Unless they are rusted real bad often that is enough. I did break one bolt off on the fridge side, but that's OK I have no plans to put anything back in the hole. It's an easy way to plug the hole in the floor that's for sure hahah

 

Tomorrow morning I'll finally get a change to get back out there. I've decided to take the fridge/cabinet out in pieces with my sawzall. Fun pics coming soon :)

 

 

Hi Jeff,

 

Thank you for the help. I have one cabinet removed from the truck.

 

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Fridge is out. Interior is out. Ready for my FL Columbia windows to arrive. I ended up cutting the top off of the fridge cabinet and working the fridge side to side, front to back. After a couple minutes it broke free and came right out.

 

EDIT: The shared album was a failure, so I hosted the pics on one of my own websites:

http://nicoleandjeff.net/vnl/

 

pano.jpg

 

Also realized that the headlights have failed and fogged internally, so I ordered a new set of headlights and fog lights from eBay. The left headlight chassis plug is burned up and missing pins. Going to call Vander Haags Monday to see if they will sell me a pigtail.. Any other ideas on where I might find one?

 

Thanks

Jeff

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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No pics.

 

This site's image hosting abilities are pretty lame. Click on the Google shared album to see all of the pics :-)

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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I can get to the pics OK, but I'm a google user.....and I'm signed into my Google account.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
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Fridge is out. Interior is out. Ready for my FL Columbia windows to arrive. I ended up cutting the top off of the fridge cabinet and working the fridge side to side, front to back. After a couple minutes it broke free and came right out.

 

Created a google shared album for this project, will update as I go along:

https://goo.gl/photos/ybUmYJtxY7JgfiMs9

 

 

Also realized that the headlights have failed and fogged internally, so I ordered a new set of headlights and fog lights from eBay. The left headlight chassis plug is burned up and missing pins. Going to call Vander Haags Monday to see if they will sell me a pigtail.. Any other ideas on where I might find one?

 

Thanks

Jeff

 

 

 

Hi Jeff,

 

You might want to send Nuke-E a p/m. David owns Deep Space Lighting. He has done a load of work developing a replacement head light system for the Volvo trucks. He might just know where you can find the parts you need.

 

Also, I am not able to see your pictures.

 

Keep up the good work,

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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Hi Jeff,

 

You might want to send Nuke-E a p/m. David owns Deep Space Lighting. He has done a load of work developing a replacement head light system for the Volvo trucks. He might just know where you can find the parts you need.

 

Also, I am not able to see your pictures.

 

Keep up the good work,

Al

 

Thanks. I am/was planning to go the HID route with David's kit, but the headlight housing itself had failed and had major fog and debris internally. They need to be replaced entirely. If the new headlight assemblies don't have enough lighting, I will definitely be getting the HID kit.

2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster

2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK

Full time June 2017

DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs

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