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lappir

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There are 2 nuts on the starter stud. The one closest to the case holds the stud in the center of the insulator and when the starter is assembled should be tightened to torque spec. The starter cable goes on, then a lock washer, then the top nut. The final tightening has to be done with the 2 nuts with an open end wrench holding the one closest to the case. The problem is it is hard to get to, and a lot of open end wrenches are too thick to fit. There are wrenches for the purpose. But most lazy mechanics just tighten the outer nut without holding the lower one, and it spins the stud and doesn't get tightened properly. It can also create problems internally if the stud is turned too much. Can happen with any starter, car or truck, any size.

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Thanks for the latest two comments. I did not know about the tightening sequence, but understand the concept. I did not "over tighten" so hopefully no "Stud" issues. Will see about the second wrench if my locktite gives up and will obtain a star washer too. Thought when I had the starter replaced I would never have to worry about it again. The word should maybe needs to proceed never in most cases.

 

Rod

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Heat cycles of dis-similar metals cause electrical connections to loosen with use. Check cables as well as grounds occasionally.

 

Personally, I wouldn't use a thread locking compound on an electrical connector. Why ad an insulator?

Thanks, Put the locktite in the nut before putting it on the stud so not much should have gotten back where the wires connect. and none on the contact surface of the nut to the wires. Not sure if I have enough threads to add the extra nut but may look at that. So far the truck has started every time I have asked since the no start episode. Have a few more days of work with it so it will be started at least every week or two before heading South at the end of October. It will sit in the same place there for several months though. Will scout the area for a good mobile truck mechanic "Before" I may need one. Anyone have experience in the Tallahassee area for a Mobile guy?

 

Thanks,

 

Rod

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Dissimilar metals. I've been told that the very common "compression screw" type lugs in a AC Breaker panel are supposed to be retorqued yearly because of that. I don't know of ANYBODY that turns off th e AC at the pole and goes thru all the lugs on their house wiring. (Would it reduce the # of hose fires more than the increase in electrocutions by those who didn't quite get the idea....??? :o:wacko: )

 

The point is that any electrical connection can loosen over time. I've had tractors where retorquing the starter cable is a yearly check item. Not uncommon. I don't like normal lock washers for this--I far prefer to use a "belleville" spring washer. That pretty much eliminates the problem.

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I've watched more than one electrician check every lug in a breaker box while he was there. It's amazing how many were a little loose.

 

I had one tractor that has one terminal on one battery that required tightening every time it got it's "annual". It require removing a body panel from the cab. What a pita.

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