alan0043 Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Hi Everyone, My truck just came down with a problem. I will try to describe the problem the best that I can. I first start with turning the key to the first position to on and watch for the icons to light up on the dash. That is where the problem is at. The icons will not light up and you can not hear the solenoids click in. You think that the truck has dead batteries. The truck is always plugged in to a battery minder, so the batteries always have a full charge. To prove it to myself I will turn the key farther to the start position and the truck will start. The truck will build up air pressure. Let the truck run for about 5 minutes and then turn the engine off. Now go and try to start the engine again by turning the key to the first position and the dash icons will light up now and you also can hear the solenoids click in. Where do I start to look to for this problem ? The truck is a '98 Volvo with a Cummins N 14 engine. All help is welcomed, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Al, Will say it first. Check all grounds, especially at the battery. I've learned from this forum that is the most common issue. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dollytrolley Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Al,Will say it first. Check all grounds, especially at the battery. I've learned from this forum that is the most common issue.[/quote X 2 Drive on......(pesky grounds.....) 97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Al, Will say it first. Check all grounds, especially at the battery. I've learned from this forum that is the most common issue. X3 Especially cab or dash grounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted September 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 X3 Especially cab or dash grounds. Where would I find the dash grounds ? The battery terminals are all clean and the batteries are showing 14.2 volts where the truck is running. Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Al, No expert here but you will find ground posts on the upper right firewall under the hood and also inside the cab under the dash. In my truck down close to the pedal that allows the steering column to be moved. Probably others I'm not aware. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 You might also check your computer fuses at the battery. When you check your fuses use a multimeter to be sure they are good. Also check you battery voltage before you start the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Check ecm fuse link by battery bank. Maybe corroded. Intermit connection. Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERO Maker Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Has it only happened once? Can you repeat it? Try wiggling the key and see if you can get it to not have the lights on again. Rocky & Sheri Rhoades '01 Volvo 770 2016 DRV Mobile Suites, HoustonHERO Makers Ministry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Has it only happened once? Can you repeat it? Try wiggling the key and see if you can get it to not have the lights on again. It happens every time I try to start the truck now. Let the truck run for about 10 to 15 minutes then shut the truck off. Now restart the truck and every thing is just fine. The truck acts normal. Wait for about 3 to 4 hours and the truck has the problem back. Wiggling the key does not help. Is the ecm located on the engine ? Is there any kind of soleniod or soleniods that the truck has before it goes to the fuse box ? Where can I find a wiring diagarm for my truck ? I just need the starting diagram. Please keep the help coming, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Al, Just thinking out loud. Sounds like something is heat sensitive so as truck runs and warms up it conducts or functions normally but when cold doesn't. Will leave it to the gurus to figure out what that component might be. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Have you laid the dash forward and checked the connections on the back side. There are 2-3 plugs that connect to the back. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Read all of the posts! Check your fuses! Use Google to find a wiring diagram! When you go to the first position on start up does any other of your ACC stuff work like a radio, CB, power windows or anything else you have on that "key on" circuit? https://volvotrucks.vg-emedia.com/InformationListing.aspx?GroupId=412 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Last year I had my instrument panel out and apart replacing the bottom left hand LCD display (Thanks Roger!). While I had it all apart I cleaned everything with contact cleaner, the printed wire diagram, all the pins and plug ports. Not saying this is the problem, but the tach doesn't jump around, and all the lights work, back lighting, etc. While playing with a tail light issue, I removed every fuse, and either replaced ones that were old and corroded looking or just put back in the socket. Several things happened. The original electric horn that I thought was dead started working, and the sleeper cigarette lighter power plug started working. I didn't find any fuses that were visually "Blown", but moving them in the slot cleaned the blades enought to pass power again. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Consider yourself lucky that you can at least start the truck when this happens. I have no idea the cause or fix, but will be watching for a resolution. Good luck with your quest. My 2001 had a bad starter solenoid when I first got it. Took me a while to find out my intermittent starting issues. I have the Volvo engine though and initially thought I had dead batteries but had just shut down the truck so I sort of knew that wasn't the problem. Check the connections at the starter. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick & Alana Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 On my 2000 VNL there is a large group of grounds all terminate to the firewall. Inside if cab above to throttle pedal. I would think it might be a ground issue that is out in the nasty environment. However if your checking grounds check this one also. Rick and Alana Fulltimers 2018 Newmar Ventana 4037 2020 Jeep Gladiator 1997 Jeep TJ 2009 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3 formerly owned 2000 Volvo 770, 600 Cummins ISX,18 speed autoshift, 14 foot "garage" ET,Jackalopee,MaxBrake,Pressure Pro pro www.rickandalanasgreatadventures.blogspot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Hi Everyone, Things are getting better. I have used some 180 grit sand paper and clean all the fuses making them look new in the fuse box. Now when I try the key for the first time the icons will not light up. But when I try a second time the icons will light up. This is why I say things are getting better because the truck would not do that before. Has anyone used contact and tuner cleaner in the ignition switch ? I have not opened the side of the truck to clean the ecm fuse yet. I will still clean the ground wires under the hood. Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Al-, in the ignition switch I used https://www.amazon.com/AGS-LE5-Lock-Ease/dp/B000CIJUGA on a sticking lock on the truck. Worked great. Pull the cover on the column- 2 screws- and I sprayed some in the lock, then sprayed canned air- like you would use to blow dust off a keyboard into the lock. The gunk that ran out was amazing. I repeated several times, no more sticking lock. Lowes and Homedepot sell a lock cleaner/lube similar to Lock-Ease that should work. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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