Broncohauler Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 I have a Atwood G-10 3e water heater that dosnt want to stay lite. I've had trouble of some kind sence day one with this heater. First it would blow suit out the front door on start up Also the relief valve leaked. Now it just won't stay lite. Tryed cleaning the jet and no help. Is there a easy fix? The heater is 10 years old. We most likely will be selling this trailer real soon, so want it to work for the next family but don't want to invest more than needed. On a side note, as we start to design our possible new coach. What do you guys think about a instanhot system?? We drycamp 80% of the time but only turn on the hot water heater when needed. I don't mind running my generator for that. Thanks Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Maybe a faulty gas valve. An easy fix to change it. First I would blow it out the burner with compressed air. That is the cheapest to start with. The relief valve is also easy to change. I helped change a gas valve that had gone bad from the constant leak from the relief valve. You can get a relief valve at a hardware store and it will be cheaper than at an RV dealer. 2004 Volvo 630, Freedomline, Rear view camera, Max Brake, Jackalopee, 38 ft 4 horse LQ Platinum, 40ft Jayco Talon toy hauler Http:/www.flickr.com/photos/shallow_draft/ Https://flic.kr/p/fqhyAN You are not lost if you don't care where you are!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim & Wilma Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 If the burner lights for a few seconds and extinguishes, its likely not sensing the flame. Possibly just a sensor position adjustment. Jim & Wilma 2006 Travel Supreme 36RLQSO 2009 Volvo VNL730, D13, I-shift, ET, Herrin Hauler bed, "Ruby" 2017 Smart Class of 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 On a side note, as we start to design our possible new coach. What do you guys think about a instanhot system?? We drycamp 80% of the time but only turn on the hot water heater when needed. I don't mind running my generator for that. Thanks Charlie I don't have any experience with that particular heater, but HERE is my report on the Truma Aqua Go. I have been using it for 18 months and really like it. It exhibits none of the typical continuous hot water issues. Propane ONLY. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randyretired Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 Electric instant hot water heaters need a lot of power. Propane is the only way I would consider one in an RV. Randy 2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve from SoCal Posted September 10, 2016 Report Share Posted September 10, 2016 I have a small electric instant water heater, it needs 40 amps 240 volts. I am actually looking at re-installing a propane water heater. I removed all the propane stuff in my Teton for safety in my shop. For real camping the water heater is the only problem. I have a 6500 Onan propane generator, even if I shut off everything I still am 3000 watts shy of the water heater draw. I am a proponent of electric appliances but, it requires a battery bank like David (Nuke E) to work in the wild. Steve 2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift 1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta 1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markandkim Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 I didnt know HTD's had hot water heaters. Retired USN Engineer 2020 Ram 2500 Bighorn 6.7 Diesel 2014 Crossroads Zinger 27RL (Traded) 2022 Grand Design Reflection 315RLTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 I didnt know HTD's had hot water heaters. Sure they do! It is called an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 Looks like I'll be staying with propane thanks guys. I wouldn't mind as much if mine would work on both propane and electric like my old trailer did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 OK, they did this to me when I asked a similar question many years ago. "Why do you need a hot water heater if the water is already hot?" Sorry I couldn't resist. Have been waiting years for someone to ask. I have said this before and it worked well for me for several years except in the coldest weather (below Freezing outside). As a single person living in an RV I could use my propane only water heater as sort of a demand heater. I would leave it off unless I was preparing to shower or wash dishes. I usually planned to wash dishes and shower around the same time. I could turn the water heater on listen for it to light, make the bed, sort the dishes (this was before I had the dishwasher) and gather all the stuff. By that time I could start with washing the dishes and by the time I finished that the water heater would usually turn off. I would switch it back off, take a shower and be finished with the water heater until the next shower or dish-washing event. If I decided to just wash dishes after Supper (dinner) in the summer I could still take a shower in the morning with hot water. I do almost always use water sparing techniques. That's my 2 cents. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 We only turn on the hot water heater when we plan on taking shiwe or doing dishes. I've found not letting it run all night has saved me a lot of propane. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 We only turn on the hot water heater when we plan on taking shiwe or doing dishes. I've found not letting it run all night has saved me a lot of propane. X2 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 11, 2016 Report Share Posted September 11, 2016 If you don't have the manual, let me know and I will endeavor to get it to you. On the Atwood, the spark electrode and the flame sensor electrode are the same device. This is what the manual says about the spark probe assembly: CHECK THE INTEGRITY AND POSITION OF THE SPARK PROBE ASSEMBLY.The gap between the sparking probe and the ground probe should be1/8 inch. The probes should be clean and free of cracks, flaking andcorrosion. Position the probes so that they are in the path of the gasflow. Cracks in the ceramic insulator can also be the source of anintermittent problem. To check for cracks insert a fiber washer or anyother type of insulation material in the 1/8” gap between the rods.Remove the gas valve from the circuit and turn the unit on. If you seea spark jumping from the ceramic to the ground rod or bracket,replace the spark probe. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 There is a 1/4" screw on top of the burner tube that holds the burner/ igniter assembly to the tank. Loosen and tighten that screw three times, then try the water heater Safe Travels, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Thanks nevereasy and wrknrvr I'll check those out. It takes maybe three try's for the heater to light, then it will sound like it's running out of fuel. Meaning it burns load and hard then slows down until it goes out. This will happen for about a 1/2 hour, then it runs ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 You may also have a regulator problem if it slowly runs out of fuel. I would start with the main propane regulator as it is allowing pressure to the low side of the system. But not enough volume. On occasion I have also experienced a hose end problem at the bottle being to tight. Or the hose not passing enough volume. If you have a separate bottle on each side of the RV there maybe two regulators . Safe travels. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Perhaps not related, but one of the things I always do, when I disconnect (to fill up) a propane tank from the rig is to put a ziplock baggie over the open line and seal it with a rubber band. This keeps little critters (like spiders) from crawling up in the lines to make it their new home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 More thoughts on more intel provided. Does the kitchen stove suffer from the same fuel starvation? If the problem is back towards the propane tanks the whole system should be starving. The "three try's for the heater to light" sounds like not enough fuel at the onset. That and the change from loud to decreasing burn might point to a bad electric gas valve. The fact that it opens at all would mean it is getting 12VDC control voltage but it would not hurt to put a meter across it to be sure the control board is working. When you get it going and then the propane fuel appears to decrease try tapping the gas valve to see it it picks up. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 I have the same problem with both tanks. 2 regulators with auto switch over. Stove is on same line and works ok, granted it uses far less propane. Furnace is on other side of the trailer separate line but same tanks and it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted September 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 I'm leaning towards the regulator on the hot water heater. It's 10 years old so most likely should just replace the whole thing. But $550 for just the complete heater hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Thermocouple??? Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 By thermocouple do you mean "thermal cut-out"? The thermal cut-out is simply an in-line meltable fuse. It will kill power to the gas valve if the temperature in the water heater cavity gets to its melting point, usually meaning the fire has gotten out of the tube. That prevents the water heater from burning up the RV. The Thermal cut-off cannot be reset or recovered. It has melted and must be replaced. If that happens, the gas valve will never open until repaired (or bypassed for testing). The schematic for the Atwood has the Thermal cut-off and the ECO switch labeled backwards. The ECO Switch and the Fixed Temp Cont Thermostat are physically connected together behind that black rubber cover. The ECO Switch can be reset by pushing the place that says RESET on the black rubber cover. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 13, 2016 Report Share Posted September 13, 2016 Broncohauler, Don't give up! This is fixable. By "regulator" do you mean control board? The control board sends 12VDC to the gas valve and opens it. The LP then flows at a constant rate until the control board gets an open signal from the thermostat and removes 12VDC to the gas valve. The control board (regulator??) is good if 12VDC gets to the gas valve. There is no variable regulation of the LP. It is either on or off. Are you willing to do some things that some might consider risky? Like opening the LPG line to the gas valve? Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 You may want to purchase a manometer for this job. One with a gauge has worked best for my use. I had an electronic one and did not like it. The gas in regulated to about 11" of water collom. At what ever volume the system will allow to flow. Test at the stove to begin with. Then operate the water heater and see what happens. Safe travels, Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted September 14, 2016 Report Share Posted September 14, 2016 Thermocouple operates by using the pilot flame to create an electrically current to operate the control valve etc. So the opposite of this "By thermocouple do you mean "thermal cut-out"? Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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