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Hot water heater


Broncohauler

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I have a Atwood G-10 3e water heater that dosnt want to stay lite.

I've had trouble of some kind sence day one with this heater. First it would blow suit out the front door on start up

Also the relief valve leaked. Now it just won't stay lite.

Tryed cleaning the jet and no help. Is there a easy fix? The heater is 10 years old.

We most likely will be selling this trailer real soon, so want it to work for the next family but don't want to invest more than needed.

 

On a side note, as we start to design our possible new coach. What do you guys think about a instanhot system??

We drycamp 80% of the time but only turn on the hot water heater when needed. I don't mind running my generator for that.

Thanks Charlie

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Maybe a faulty gas valve. An easy fix to change it. First I would blow it out the burner with compressed air. That is the cheapest to start with.

The relief valve is also easy to change.

I helped change a gas valve that had gone bad from the constant leak from the relief valve. You can get a relief valve at a hardware store and it will be cheaper than at an RV dealer.

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On a side note, as we start to design our possible new coach. What do you guys think about a instanhot system??

We drycamp 80% of the time but only turn on the hot water heater when needed. I don't mind running my generator for that.

Thanks Charlie

I don't have any experience with that particular heater, but HERE is my report on the Truma Aqua Go. I have been using it for 18 months and really like it. It exhibits none of the typical continuous hot water issues. Propane ONLY.

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I have a small electric instant water heater, it needs 40 amps 240 volts. I am actually looking at re-installing

a propane water heater. I removed all the propane stuff in my Teton for safety in my shop. For real

camping the water heater is the only problem. I have a 6500 Onan propane generator, even if I shut off

everything I still am 3000 watts shy of the water heater draw.

 

I am a proponent of electric appliances but, it requires a battery bank like David (Nuke E) to work in the wild.

 

Steve

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OK, they did this to me when I asked a similar question many years ago. "Why do you need a hot water heater if the water is already hot?"

 

Sorry I couldn't resist. Have been waiting years for someone to ask.

 

I have said this before and it worked well for me for several years except in the coldest weather (below Freezing outside). As a single person living in an RV I could use my propane only water heater as sort of a demand heater. I would leave it off unless I was preparing to shower or wash dishes. I usually planned to wash dishes and shower around the same time. I could turn the water heater on listen for it to light, make the bed, sort the dishes (this was before I had the dishwasher) and gather all the stuff. By that time I could start with washing the dishes and by the time I finished that the water heater would usually turn off. I would switch it back off, take a shower and be finished with the water heater until the next shower or dish-washing event. If I decided to just wash dishes after Supper (dinner) in the summer I could still take a shower in the morning with hot water. I do almost always use water sparing techniques.

 

That's my 2 cents.

 

Rod

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If you don't have the manual, let me know and I will endeavor to get it to you. On the Atwood, the spark electrode and the flame sensor electrode are the same device. This is what the manual says about the spark probe assembly:

CHECK THE INTEGRITY AND POSITION OF THE SPARK PROBE ASSEMBLY.
The gap between the sparking probe and the ground probe should be
1/8 inch. The probes should be clean and free of cracks, flaking and
corrosion. Position the probes so that they are in the path of the gas
flow. Cracks in the ceramic insulator can also be the source of an
intermittent problem. To check for cracks insert a fiber washer or any
other type of insulation material in the 1/8” gap between the rods.
Remove the gas valve from the circuit and turn the unit on. If you see
a spark jumping from the ceramic to the ground rod or bracket,
replace the spark probe.

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You may also have a regulator problem if it slowly runs out of fuel. I would start with the main propane regulator as it is allowing pressure to the low side of the system. But not enough volume.

On occasion I have also experienced a hose end problem at the bottle being to tight. Or the hose not passing enough volume.

If you have a separate bottle on each side of the RV there maybe two regulators .

 

 

Safe travels. Vern

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More thoughts on more intel provided. Does the kitchen stove suffer from the same fuel starvation? If the problem is back towards the propane tanks the whole system should be starving.

 

The "three try's for the heater to light" sounds like not enough fuel at the onset. That and the change from loud to decreasing burn might point to a bad electric gas valve. The fact that it opens at all would mean it is getting 12VDC control voltage but it would not hurt to put a meter across it to be sure the control board is working.

 

When you get it going and then the propane fuel appears to decrease try tapping the gas valve to see it it picks up.

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By thermocouple do you mean "thermal cut-out"? The thermal cut-out is simply an in-line meltable fuse. It will kill power to the gas valve if the temperature in the water heater cavity gets to its melting point, usually meaning the fire has gotten out of the tube. That prevents the water heater from burning up the RV. The Thermal cut-off cannot be reset or recovered. It has melted and must be replaced. If that happens, the gas valve will never open until repaired (or bypassed for testing).

 

The schematic for the Atwood has the Thermal cut-off and the ECO switch labeled backwards. The ECO Switch and the Fixed Temp Cont Thermostat are physically connected together behind that black rubber cover. The ECO Switch can be reset by pushing the place that says RESET on the black rubber cover.

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Broncohauler,

Don't give up! This is fixable.

 

By "regulator" do you mean control board? The control board sends 12VDC to the gas valve and opens it. The LP then flows at a constant rate until the control board gets an open signal from the thermostat and removes 12VDC to the gas valve. The control board (regulator??) is good if 12VDC gets to the gas valve. There is no variable regulation of the LP. It is either on or off.

 

Are you willing to do some things that some might consider risky? Like opening the LPG line to the gas valve?

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You may want to purchase a manometer for this job. One with a gauge has worked best for my use. I had an electronic one and did not like it.

The gas in regulated to about 11" of water collom. At what ever volume the system will allow to flow. Test at the stove to begin with. Then operate the water heater and see what happens.

 

 

Safe travels, Vern

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