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One side jack not retracting


DuneElliot

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I have an odd problem. When I picked up my Keystone Springdale from a friend's property the driver's side (DS) jack would not retract all the way. The passenger side (PS) is fine. The DS jack still works going up and down to lift the camper off my hitch, until the last 6 inches, then it stops while the PS jack keeps retracting, even with pressure on it. Of course, this means I now have mismatched/unequal jacks and I worry the DS jack will give out completely.

 

Any ideas or reasons why this is happening?

 

I won't be moving into the camper until next year and it doesn't have plates on it. I realize this may be a dealer/RV mechanic issue that I will have to address before I hit the road, but any insight would be helpful.

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Are the jacks even when ran down to the ground then, or does the PS catch-up to the DS from up to down? It's possible one side has jumped a cog in the gearing.

Watch the gearboxes and square shaft between them to determine both turn at the same speed.

Electric trailer jacks have 2 split/roll shear pins(1 each side) to prevent expensive damage to components. That's what I would check first, I would replace them with ordinary ungraded stove bolts and nuts. DO NOT use graded bolts unless you want something expensive to break instead.

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The name on the jack housing is Venture, so assuming that's the brand.

 

They are not even when going to the ground, because I screwed up when retracting them when this first happened and let the PS jack keep going while the DS jack stayed out. Now there is 6" difference between the two. The DS jack will go in and out perfectly fine until the last 6" or so and at the same speed so I am not sure if it has jumped a cog, but it doesn't sound likely; I would expect the jack to not move correctly for the entire extension if that were the case.

 

I can try and check what you are suggesting, but might need a picture of what I am looking at and what I need to replace in regards to the stove bolts. Also, if I do that will it be possible to get them back to the same height at least?

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Atop each jack leg is a 90 deg. gearbox, between them is (usually) a square hollow tube that slides over the solid gearbox shaft. Where the two overlap is the shear pin on each end.

You'll need a pin punch to drive out the old pin pieces, small hammer of course. Use the jack motor to even the jacks, by measuring from the solid housing to the jack foot on each side. Once you have both side the same height, align the holes where the broken pin was and install a bolt there. Double nut the bolts to prevent loosening.

If you prefer not to use stove bolts, you may purchase replacement pins from any RV supply store or hardware store, just take a broken piece along for a correct match. Length should be 1/4" longer than square tube size.

This Atwood pdf has pictures/diagrams of 5er jacks, with instructions(pg 34). Your jacks may be a different brand, but they are all the same basic design.

 

I apologize for the delay. My priority is taking care of my wife, it's been a long year for her already. She was in a serious auto accident Feb. 8, when rear-ended by a tandem-axle dump truck.

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The most typical answers are above. In my mind the jacks placed on at least the two 5th wheel trailers I was exposed to prior to my latest were near junk to begin with. There is a small flimsy washer at the top of each of the screws that move the jacks up and down. It's held in place by a cotter pin. IF you RETRACT the jack too far it will bend the washer and possibly shear the pin and the lift mechanism will come disengaged. If you are real lucky and hit just the right bump before trying to lower (Extend) your jack on that side it might engage and work properly for a bit until you raise the jacks the next time and possibly go to high and disengage the nut again. Happened to me multiple times on my first trailer. It is a PAIN to remove the jack and find out what they are built like. After seeing it I swore I would never have another like it. I would also not spend the amount of money they wanted for a replacement. My fix lasted because I knew what would happen if I raised the jack too high.

 

Rod

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Back in the real world after backpacking all weekend, so don't worry about the delay in replies.

 

RayIN: I will do as you suggest. I know where the motor is and the tube that connects the two gearboxes. Now I know what I am looking for I will try it one evening this week, when it quits raining and isn't muddy. I will report back.

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I need help getting this egg off my face. :rolleyes: Page 34 of the Atwood pdf clearly shows they now use bolts & nuts instead of shear pins. Print a copy of page 6 and compare it to your landing jacks, especially where you see the bolts(item 19).

 

Page six is about brakes and brake actuators. If I go to page 34 it does look like my set up, although the motor and the crank handle is on the opposite sides. If I undo one of the bolts in the tube when I have it hitched up again I should be able to get the jacks level, correct?

 

Which side is the motor on DS or PS. Either way you can get them level again when hitched up. You can adjust the legs with the motor just run them half way down then remove the drive rod and ajust the drive leg to match the slave.

 

The motor (and manual crank) is on the DS. Would you agree with the comment I made above regarding removing the bolt from the tube so the motor won't adjust one leg? Is that what you mean by removing the drive rod (the tube connecting the two legs to the motor).

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I've been busy with by wife and her PT. Sorry I didn't proof-read my post before you saw it, glad you did see the correct page.

Yes, remove one of those bolts, then run the other jack until it measures exactly the same as the one that doesn't move.

re; that diagram of the jacks, think of it as a reversed picture negative, as all manual cranks are on the driver side/port-side.

I suspect you'll find one of those bolts are broken, remove and check both. Do replace with ordinary stove bolts (ungraded), it is the cheapest, and easiest part to replace.

 

Some folks use hardened bolts then complain about something expensive breaking_well, makes one wonder what they expected.

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I've been busy with by wife and her PT. Sorry I didn't proof-read my post before you saw it, glad you did see the correct page.

Yes, remove one of those bolts, then run the other jack until it measures exactly the same as the one that doesn't move.

re; that diagram of the jacks, think of it as a reversed picture negative, as all manual cranks are on the driver side/port-side.

I suspect you'll find one of those bolts are broken, remove and check both. Do replace with ordinary stove bolts (ungraded), it is the cheapest, and easiest part to replace.

 

Some folks use hardened bolts then complain about something expensive breaking_well, makes one wonder what they expected.

 

Hey, don't worry about it...I figured it out :D Since I won't be hitching up any time soon, unless I'm really bored one weekend and can't find anything else to do, I won't be able to do this for a while I probably won't report back any time soon. I will let you know if I run into more problems.

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