Toad Brakes Air vs Mechanical System

[Kevor]

Thanks for the replies. I contacted RoadMaster and was told that if the brake lights are activated when the exhaust brake is used (common on newer rigs, per BrakeMaster) then the Invisibrake will activate. There is a work around that involves rewiring. Customer service person at RM highly recommends Brake Master for air brakes.

[Stiltner]

Thanks for the reply Kevor, I was told just to opposite from Roadmaster. They stated that the salesman I was talking to was confused about hydralic versus air brakes, and that it takes pressure on the coarch brake petal to activate the TOAD braking system. Nonetheless, I went with the Air Force One that is being installed next week.

[SpaceNorman]

We just passed the 12,000 mile mark with our SMI Air Force One system used with our Jeep Liberty. We haven't had a lick of trouble with it. Connecting and disconnecting the brakes literally takes seconds - and involving connecting the two ends of a single "quick connect" air line. It wasn't the cheapest system to purchase and/or have installed - BUT, in terms of use - I can't imagine finding anything that is more simple and convenient to use!

[Dutch_12078]

We just passed the 12,000 mile mark with our SMI Air Force One system used with our Jeep Liberty. We haven't had a lick of trouble with it. Connecting and disconnecting the brakes literally takes seconds - and involving connecting the two ends of a single "quick connect" air line. It wasn't the cheapest system to purchase and/or have installed - BUT, in terms of use - I can't imagine finding anything that is more simple and convenient to use!

 

All it takes to connect the brake operating system built into our ReadyBrute Elite tow bar is clicking a clip on an eyelet. A basic mechanical system that's quick to hook up and requires no modifications to the OEM brake system for installation. That's simplicity and convenience...

[Guest davidsmith]

Your opinions and spirit are really appreciated.

[Stiltner]

Agreed David!

[Walking thunder]

I'll throw my 2 cents in. I have owned several RVs and I am a service advisor at a national RV service center.

SMI AF1 for air brakes and the Stay and play duo for RVs with hydrolic brakes are the systems that our shop installs several times a week. MAJOR difference between the Stay and Play and Invisibrake are: SMI requires both a signal from brake light and inertia. If it doesn't have both inputs it doesn't activate. This is an advantage in that it lessens the possibility of unneeded brake application. That system is designed for RVs with hydrolic brakes.it is NOT direct proportional braking which differs from the AF 1 for diesel RVs with air brakes. Proportional brake systems are in my opinion the best bet.

One of the main draw backs of the invisibrake is in the installation process. Most new vehicles don't have the necessary space for the box to fit under the front seat. I have had to put the box way in the back cargo area which increases the length of the wire that operated the brake pedal with a pulley. This has cause some issues for customers in that the cable gets caught on floor mats or has other issues with the angle that the pulley must be installed on the firewall floor. . We still sell that system but haven't sold one since we started carrying the SMI products . With the exception of the actuator that is installed on the pedal, the "box" is under the hood on both SMI products. If you trade out either the RV or the toad there are parts that can be ordered and installed saving the cost of having the system un-installed the re-installed on the new vehicle. It can be an advantage when selling the RV that part of the system is already on the trade. Also AF1 is the only system that will not void the warranty on most RV chassis manufactures.

 

It's is a fact that the brake lights do come on when use of an engine brake.

[Walking thunder]

Good choice IMO! Personally I have always used the M&G braking system. I looked at the AF 1 and Roadmaster systems this year, but they require mounting under driver seat, my new Silverado hasn't enough room under the driver seat for the "box".

Only the Roadmast invisibrake goes under the seat. See above

[Ray,IN]

Aah, you're right. The SMI/AF1 unit requires a 12V hot wire from the towed battery to operate. The Roadmaster mounts under the driver seat frame.

I'm not going to buy anything that requires wiring to the towed battery, which then must be recharged from some source.

I'll stay with the M&G braking system, nothing in the towed cabin or wired to the towed battery.

 

Only the Roadmast invisibrake goes under the seat. See above

[Walking thunder]

Aah, you're right. The SMI/AF1 unit requires a 12V hot wire from the towed battery to operate. The Roadmaster mounts under the driver seat frame.

I'm not going to buy anything that requires wiring to the towed battery, which then must be recharged from some source.

I'll stay with the M&G braking system, nothing in the towed cabin or wired to the towed battery.

 

Easy fix:Small solar panel with non skid on the dash, plug into cig lighter 12v and it will back charge Most folks that have issues with dead batteries are from either a mechanical style(R2D2 is what I call them) that require 12 V to operate or some like the Honda Oddysy don't allow you to tow with the key in the first position thus draining the battery. . AF1onlly 12volt draw Iis for the indicater LED light that's mounted in the window of the toad that you can see from the rear camera. No 12 V draw to operate the brake. Stay and play has minimal draw that is fixed with the solar panel or simply starting the toad during bathroom stops. Some vehicles like the Acadia require battery cut off switch and pulling fuses which is a whole new issue.

[Walking thunder]

Aah, you're right. The SMI/AF1 unit requires a 12V hot wire from the towed battery to operate. The Roadmaster mounts under the driver seat frame.

I'm not going to buy anything that requires wiring to the towed battery, which then must be recharged from some source.

I'll stay with the M&G braking system, nothing in the towed cabin or wired to the towed battery.

 

Easy fix:Small solar panel with non skid on the dash, plug into cig lighter 12v and it will back charge Most folks that have issues with dead batteries are from either a mechanical style(R2D2 is what I call them) that require 12 V to operate or some like the Honda Oddysy don't allow you to tow with the key in the first position thus draining the battery. . AF1onlly 12volt draw Iis for the indicater LED light that's mounted in the window of the toad that you can see from the rear camera. No 12 V draw to operate the brake. Stay and play has minimal draw that is fixed with the solar panel or simply starting the toad during bathroom stops. Some vehicles like the Acadia require battery cut off switch and pulling fuses which is a whole new issue.

[RV fan]

I'll throw my 2 cents in. I have owned several RVs and I am a service advisor at a national RV service center.

 

 

It's is a fact that the brake lights do come on when use of an engine brake.

 

 

 

Really? FYI, not all RV's or other vehicles with engine brakes activate the brake lights when the engine or exhaust brake is activated.

 

 

[Walking thunder]

I would believe that this would be a malfunction.

[Stiltner]

Thanks for the technical information Walking Thunder. That's exactly what I wanted to know. I just came off the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range using my engine brake all the way down to the dealer for installation of my tow bar and accessories for installation. As far as the fuse removal, given that my TOAD is a 2014 CRV, I requested a Roadmaster Fusemaster, and they recommended to save a few dollars and put in a trickle charge line from the coach while they are wiring it instead of the Fusemaster. The technician said it's much easier to add 10 cents of wire with an inline fuse.....probably for his sake, but I thought to keep the TOAD as less involved as possible. I didn't want to waste a calorie turning the switch....Ha!