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120 Volt A/C for Volvo Cab

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In a house with good insulation that unit will definately cool things down great. In a truck, with limited insulation, you will find 10K to be OK if it is not real hot, and marginal in full sun and hot weather. It is the minimum I'd put in a truck IF you do not want to draw the cab curtain all the time (separating the driver's area from the condo. In "regular" heat - say in the 80's - it should do the job just fine. But get into the 90-100+ range and it will likely struggle if the APU-based units are any indication. If you insulate the interior better than Volvo does then it will work well.....

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Thanks Jack. I have been pondering the insulation for a few weeks. I will definitely be upgrading as I threw out all of the old nasty insulation that was in the walls. Open to suggestions. Maybe I need to figure out how to spray my own closed cell foam. Jeremy

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Thanks Jack. I have been pondering the insulation for a few weeks. I will definitely be upgrading as I threw out all of the old nasty insulation that was in the walls. Open to suggestions. Maybe I need to figure out how to spray my own closed cell foam. Jeremy

Others will have better ideas and for sure comment... :)

 

I'd put in a sound deadening material first, then layer on as much insulation as I could. You might look into something like astrofoil as a base layer over the sound deadening. Then standard insulation. I'd use the cans of non-expanding spray foam in areas that are tight and corners. If you are keeping the truck the effort will pay off.....and since you took off the existing insulation you have to do something.

 

I've been in trucks that had sound deadening in them....and the difference was noticeable.....although Volvo's are, in general, pretty quiet (for a truck).

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Txdslshop, I went the window unit route with an 8k unit and Jack is exactly right. Without extra insulation, really hot weather performance is marginal with my 8k unit. Your picture of the unit sticking out of the back of the truck looks like you are taking the condensate drain into consideration. Unless the unit is tilted back, you may get water in the cab if parked nose down and perhaps during stops. I drilled another drain hole in the a/c case to limit the condensate level and it took care of the condensate slosh. Be safe, Charlie

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Thanks!! I aired up the cab and took some measurements to make sure I have a little fall to the rear. I am thinking another drain like yours is in order. I am going to try and finish up the install the next couple days. If I am gonna have a chance of making it to Hitchinson, I better get busy. My big butt ain't gonna sweat while I am trying to sleep. LOL

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Ok, Finally got some time to work on the A/C project. I am pretty much done with it now. Even had time for my boy to work on his insulation skills with some Reflectix. Here are a few pics of the end result. I am happy with how it turned out and was even happier when our new seating showed up Yesterday as well!! Jeremy

 

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I am getting pretty excited!! We finished up the insulation/soundproofing in the sleeper, reinstalled the headliner, and even got the seats mounted on the factory bases. Dropping it off Tuesday to have the wall upholstery work done. I am ready to button this thing up. Bad news, no Rally for me this year. Next week was the only shot for a month to get the interior upholstered. Here are a couple pics. Jeremy

 

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Looks great, Jeremy. I can't wait to see this thing in person.

 

I would beef up your rear bracing (on back of cab) quite a bit. I would cut some solid triangle plates to weld inside of those braces as gussets and attach them to the base of the A/C unit as well. The amount of force those mounts will take will be pretty substantial.

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I am getting pretty excited!! We finished up the insulation/soundproofing in the sleeper, reinstalled the headliner, and even got the seats mounted on the factory bases. Dropping it off Tuesday to have the wall upholstery work done. I am ready to button this thing up. Bad news, no Rally for me this year. Next week was the only shot for a month to get the interior upholstered. Here are a couple pics. Jeremy

 

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Hi Jeremy,

 

Can you tell me what insulation that you used in your truck ? And where you bought it at ? Curious minds need to know. I have the interior panels out of my truck and now is the time to add some insulation before I put the interior back together.

 

Your truck is looking good. Keep up the good work,

Al

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Just wondering if you have considered that when you are living in or sleeping in that cab and esp with all that insulation you have added, wont you need some "fresh" air to BREATHE?? Making it so air tight that it retains the cooling benefits of the new A/C will also cause the "stale" air to be kept inside the cab. Are there any vents that can be left open, esp some that are low in the cab? Hate to hear that the cab was so tight that the sound sleep was forever.

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Hi Jeremy,

 

Can you tell me what insulation that you used in your truck ? And where you bought it at ? Curious minds need to know. I have the interior panels out of my truck and now is the time to add some insulation before I put the interior back together.

 

Your truck is looking good. Keep up the good work,

Al

 

Hi Jeremy,

 

I should have done a better job of reading. I found the answer to my question. I saw you used Reflectix reflective insulation. I do have one question. How did you hold the insulation in place ? Did you use a spray adhesive like 3M Super 77 ?

 

Al

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Sorry guys, I was down at the coast for a few days and didn't keep up with this one. I will take another quick look at the bracing Brit. But, I must say that the aluminum flat bar that I used was pretty dang rigid. I actually hung from the unit once installed and it feels solid as a rock. But, I will check again just in case. As far as insulation and air quality. I only insulated the sleeper section and the cab is by no means air tight. The cheap windows I am sure will let in a bit of air and the a/c has a fresh air port that brings in a bit of outside air when open. I think things should be good to go in that dept. The insulation came from a company here in Texas that does commercial sound deadening in truck and equipment cabs. www.cabinsulation.com. I picked up a couple rolls of their Metalized Mylar and it has its own adhesive backing. I did originally use 3m spray adhesive and reflectix and ended up adding the Metalized Mylar just for good measure. The cab is much quieter and all is good. My main goal with the insulation was to offset removing the rear a/c evap and maybe the front would cool the sleeper decent enough on all but the hottest of days. We shall see this next summer. So far, the quiet cab was worth the money in insulation. Jeremy

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Thanks Brit!! I wish I had the CAD experience and design capabilities that you have!! Or, you just need to move to Texas!! LOL But, I am happy with my Budget Redneck hauler. Took me a few minutes of looking at the new wall covering to realize that they cut in the vents for the rear a/c from the old wall pieces that I sent as a template!!! UGH. Considering they go nowhere, I am not quite sure what they were thinking!! Oh well, I am sure not going to make them rebuild them and wait another 2 weeks!!! I have shocks, brake chambers, hoses, electrical, backup cameras, exterior lighting, seating, Oh my!! I have a ton to do before our Chritmas trip to TN!! Jeremy

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I wish I had the CAD experience and design capabilities that you have!! Or, you just need to move to Texas!! LOL

 

If you ever need anything drawn up, just let me know. I'll be glad to help.

 

Took me a few minutes of looking at the new wall covering to realize that they cut in the vents for the rear a/c from the old wall pieces that I sent as a template!!! UGH. Considering they go nowhere, I am not quite sure what they were thinking!

 

You could always throw in some low voltage LED accent lighting in the vent holes! http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xcompressor.TRS0&_nkw=ambient+led&_sacat=0

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Thanks guys!! I was actually thinking of some Blue accent lighting and may very well do that at a later point. But, it will have to wait on the 40 other things to get done before our trip!!! Side Boxes and Auxillary lighting are at the top of the list as soon as I get this interior finished up. And maybe backup cameras... It never ends!!

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Hi Jeremy,

 

I have a question or too. Did you remove the head liner in the truck ? How much of a job is it ? I have most of the stuff out of my truck. If you removed the head liner, did you insulate the roof ?

 

Thank you for any help,

Al

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Al, I did remove the headliner. I thought it was fairly easy, and I did add some insulation to the single layer portions of the roof. I was hoping to knock down a bit of the radiant heat. Hope this helps. Jeremy

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Al, I did remove the headliner. I thought it was fairly easy, and I did add some insulation to the single layer portions of the roof. I was hoping to knock down a bit of the radiant heat. Hope this helps. Jeremy

 

Hi Jeremy,

 

A couple more questions. Is this a one man job ? Is there anything special about how the headliner is held up ? Is it straight forward ? No hidden fasteners ?

 

Thank you for your help,

Al

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I don't remember exactly every fastener. But, I will try to recall most. Seems like we pulled the speakers, Bunk light in the center, the aluminum track for the bunk curtain, and a couple "Christmas Trees" and it came down in one big piece. I do remember having to drop the rear down first as to let it slip out from under the front section of headliner. Hopefully you can decipher "Redneck" and kind of follow what I am sayin. LOL I had my oldest son there to help me balance it a bit. But, in a pinch, I think I could of done it alone. Also, seems like I had to remove some of the wall pieces, especially the rear, to allow it to come down. There are some velcro pieces that were kinda holding it up as well. I hope this helps. Jeremy

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I don't remember exactly every fastener. But, I will try to recall most. Seems like we pulled the speakers, Bunk light in the center, the aluminum track for the bunk curtain, and a couple "Christmas Trees" and it came down in one big piece. I do remember having to drop the rear down first as to let it slip out from under the front section of headliner. Hopefully you can decipher "Redneck" and kind of follow what I am sayin. LOL I had my oldest son there to help me balance it a bit. But, in a pinch, I think I could of done it alone. Also, seems like I had to remove some of the wall pieces, especially the rear, to allow it to come down. There are some velcro pieces that were kinda holding it up as well. I hope this helps. Jeremy

 

Hi Everyone,

 

Here is some more info for anyone wanting to remove a headliner out of a 2012 VNL 630. Besides what Jeremy has talked about, there is also 11 total pieces of Velcro on the headliner. Four per side and three down the middle. One person can do the job there self if you take your time. Move the headliner a little at a time. Be careful of the bolts that hold the cabinets on the sides. The passenger seat needs to be removed also. This will give you the room to move the headliner out of the passenger door.

 

I hope this can help someone,

Al

Edited by alan0043

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