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mini splits ac system


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Considering this. I thinking 2 interior units would be required. In my Teton I have a bare spot up high above kitchen cabiners. It could blow air towards living room/kitchen. Where to place a unit in bedroom is not so easy. Do the unit have to be horizontal? Not a spot in there. This would be a future project as I need to get back to work soon. Maybe this winter.

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None of the units I have ever installed were vertical. There is a floor model from Mitsubishi that may do what you want depending on the floor space you have: http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/products/multi-room/product-listing/floor-mount

There are also ceiling mount units.

 

The biggest issue in an RV is mounting the outdoor unit. There is typically only 16' (or so) of line between them. That can be challenging in an RV. Also, the location of the outdoor unit can be a challenge. They do need air circulation to operate.

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I can see one on the back of Teton. Issue with that is gas line length. I have seen max length as high as 50' though. That is doable. Seen them on lots of HDTs. HDT would have to be the very worst environment for it due to vibration and the amount of time they travel. If it ain't rolling it not making money. But we don't travel like that.

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Jim and Alie - Thanx for the card (btw). Probably what your seeing is the condenser unit from the APU. Diesel driven. Ours condenser is 15" tall by 24" wide. It struggles mightily in the heat / humidity here during the day, but if you start with a cool cab, it will help maintain a lot. You brought up a good thought, I need to close off the rear sleeper with the curtain and try it, we use it for critter comfort (main reason we got it) and see if that works better.

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I have installed many mini splits. They are available with " long line" kits that allow the condensing unit to be further away. Refgt charge needs to be adjusted but it is certainly doable. I love the sleekness and quitness of the minis. I also like theheat pump availability.

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If you want the most efficient and price is no object here are some super efficient 48v DC units. http://www.geinnovations.net/HSAC_Productline.html

 

The 12,000 BTU HSAC-12H/C only draws 560 watts! That's an EER of 21.43! Its SEER would be well over 30.

 

If course you could add a 48v inverter to power it from 120v a/c current or power it from 4, 12 v deep cycle batteries (at a minimum) for off grid AC when boondoocking. I plan on powering it from 8 GC-2 batteries and at least 1,500 watts of solar for all night AC cooling of an RV bedroom. It uses a rotary compressor which is very soft starting and produces scalable cooling drawing less wattage when less cooling is needed rather than cycling on and off for increased efficiency.

 

Chip

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Wonder how the outside unit would do in the generator area of the storage in the front of fifth? Don't know if it would allow enough air circulation.This would actually be the shortest length for lines as the evaporator units would be at the steps, one blowing forward and one rear. As soon as I get boxes on bed of truck I will not need that storage area for stuff.

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Glenn the condensing unit needs to be able to get rid of all the heat its removing from your living space so needs a lot of ventilation. I thought about that space .....I think that if it can get rid of that heat without recirculating the air it will work. It means providing cross ventilation.

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I was looking at putting it in the generator area. Leave the door open when parked maybe cut or drill some more holes to pull air up from bottom. I believe you could have about 10 inches form the back by mounting as far forward as possible to the door. This all depends on the size unit you go with.

 

I was also looking at using the ducket stile and using the furnace floor vents. Still looking at this idea could connect under the bedroom in basement area.

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I was looking at putting it in the generator area. Leave the door open when parked maybe cut or drill some more holes to pull air up from bottom. I believe you could have about 10 inches form the back by mounting as far forward as possible to the door. This all depends on the size unit you go with.

 

I was also looking at using the ducket stile and using the furnace floor vents. Still looking at this idea could connect under the bedroom in basement area.

Outside unit exhausts air. Removing the heat. I don't see any good solution for this is front storage area. Perfect for line location and length though. One could cut a hole in side door but that would weaken these doors.

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I don't have any data to support my opinion, but I don't think the genset compartment will work. It simply does not have enough ventilation. Especially upward. You want the unit out in the open or in an area designed for good all-around ventilation. The outside unit sluffs off a lot of heat, if you every examined one in operation.

 

One of the HVAC guys would have a better feel, but based on what I have seen - and I've looked at them closely - I would not attempt the compartment.

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My thinking now is mount on rear of Teton. I'm a welder so that not difficult for me. Sizing and placement of the inside unit for bedroom is my main concern now. All the math says 12k unit. Hot air rises so I do believe it needs a unit in the bedroom. I need to talk with some installers on this. I could put an inside unit at rear of Teton and let it blow down toward bedroom. My question would be if bedroom would be cool enough. Will one unit cool 40' long room?

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The largest unit at 120 volts is 12,000 btu. That is not going to cool your Teton. Not even close. Having a separate unit for the bedroom - or only using it for the bedroom - is the way to go.

 

My plan for this has always been to have two units - one for the bedroom and one for the living area. Bot as large as i can go on 120 volts. Which is 12K btu unless something has changed.

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Only once in the 8+ years we been full time have we not had 50 amp service. Also that was very early on and we knew little. And though it is possible to run them on battery I don't see investing that much money into it. It will open more area on roof though.

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