bigredhdt Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Anyone try the aftermarket egr valves for d12? $560 (aftermarket) vs $860 (dealer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'mdonewiththis forum Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 What would happen if you unbolted them and put something in the passage and bolted them back on? I know of one car like that (2006 diesel) and it didn't set any code and has been that way for a couple years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 With my previous 05 Duramax that was all i had to do. But the 06 up had to have a software update. If the computer is controlling the egr it will not like it. Will likely go in a protection mode. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffw Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 The OTR kit mentioned elsewhere tells the computer everything is OK. 2007 Volvo 780 Volvo D12D, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 If I had to Volvo that's what I would do. Used the Ugly Stick on my Detroit. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 On the D12 if the signal to the ECM remains constant or is absent it goes into what one may call a limp home mode. When the ECM sends a signal for the EGR valve to open (or close) it expects a return signal verifying that the EGR valve is working. Unfortunately you can't just bypass them or disconnect the wiring. Thankfully, my EGR valves are working. But, if for some reason they stopped working and I was getting fault codes I would remove the valve and make an attempt to clean the sucker up before doing anything else. The valve is controlled by a solenoid. Inside there can be a horrendous build-up of carbon combined with oil, diesel and water. This mixture can cause the valve to freeze. I have a small benchtop blast cabinet - I paid less than $100 when I bought it. It is a handy item to have in your workshop. Glass beads and/or walnut shells can be used to clean up the valve portion of the EGR - which may be all it needs to get it freed up so it will start working again. As long as the solenoid is not "open" you should be good to go if you can get the valve moving up and down again. I believe the hesitancy of trying to salvage a stuck valve is related to labor (time) and the cost of replacement seals, which are thin pieces of metal. It is a fair amount of work to get those suckers off. Volvo also wants you to replace the V- band clamps and tubing associated with the EGR valves. These parts alone can add a couple of bills to the job. I had to remove my EGR valves when I dropped the turbo to replace a broken mounting stud. This gave me a chance to study them on the inside. You can bench test the opening and closing of a EGR valve after cleaning by simply powering the solenoid. If it doesn't work, you really haven't lost anything. If it does work you can consider the next 400 gallons of fuel paid for. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 All this talk of EGR. Tsk, tsk, tsk. The smart has big ears. Just spent the afternoon, and a good bit of the evening pulling , cleaning and re-installing the valve. After today, I'd much rather deal with a 20 lb turbo and 70 lb manifold than the amount of parts crammed under the "hood" of a smart diesel. The valve cleaned up well, with the sticking being taken care of with Brake-Kleen and rags while manually moving the shuttle. The valve position feedback comes via electronics built into the smart solenoid, but it doesn't know how the valve is oriented in relation to the gas ports in the EGR housing. I may have put everything back together 180* out of phase, but I'm not sure. I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigredhdt Posted July 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 I'm getting intermittent faults. What happens in limp mo? I know light duty trucks are severely speed limited. I'm thinking I can wait till the fall to pull apart and clean or replace if necessary. If anyone has details on their cleaning that would be great to see. If I have to replace I will go with the aftermarket replacement part. Theven egr is an integral part of the engine operation. They actual i.prove the efficiency of combustion. There is research out there that shows significant improvement in efficiency with more advanced egr. You can fool the ecm for a while with a programmer, but I would be worried about the long term damage it is causing to the engine when operating without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 EGR shortens engine life. Period. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 EGR shortens engine life. Period. Theven egr is an integral part of the engine operation. They actual i.prove the efficiency of combustion. There is research out there that shows significant improvement in efficiency with more advanced egr. You can fool the ecm for a while with a programmer, but I would be worried about the long term damage it is causing to the engine when operating without it. Sadly, you're both right. Past experience proves Glenn's point. The crud that came out of the smart intake tract couldn't be good for much, except for getting me dirty. It was slightly abrasive, sticky, and dissolved in Brake-Kleen. We don't have any emissions inspection requirements here, but I still don't want to remove the equipment. It's functionally removed from service, but still present. The numbers also prove bigred's statement, as today's diesels are making huge power, at reasonable mileage levels, compared to even 2 generations back. As the engineers get better with materials, at price points the accountants can handle, expect the EGR issues to calm down. Does anyone here remember the early '70's, with their smog control equipped vehicles? That's where we are today, in the diesel world. Back then, the rip-'er-out crowd was trying to remove all evidence of anything vaguely "pollution" related. Today, nobody gives their EGR system a second thought. I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 What happens in limp mode? The ECM reduces turbo boost. The thinking is if you loose EGR you are going to pollute more when you put the pedal to the metal. They say without EGR return gasses turbo temps can significantly rise - so boost is reduced to keep temps down so you don't melt your turbo. Again, this is not an answer - only what "limp home" mode results in. Maybe "limp home" is the wrong word(s) - but no matter, you lose power and end up limping home or to the Volvo repair facility. Yes, I would clean one of the valves like Darryl did first. Like everything pollution related or specifically Volvo, the price is way over what it should be. They know you must have it working so they gotcha'. Pay the man.... Been there, done that..... Hate it....I always look for another source or fix. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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