oldride Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 My Dometic Ac has quite. Is there a reset at the unit itself? I have reset the breaker and left it off for a day in case it froze up. Just trying to see my next step. The front ac still works but I don't want to over use it, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I've had our front unit not start after a season of non-use . I had to remove the cover and manually spin the fan a few turns . It's been functioning as it should ever since and that was a few years ago . To answer you question : I don't recall seeing a reset button under the cover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed ke6bnl Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Even if the fan was stuck you would hear the compressor humming. Unlikely both are bad. Need see if you have power at the unit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Even if the fan was stuck you would hear the compressor humming. Unlikely both are bad. Need see if you have power at the unit We do need more info from oldride . He didn't say if any 'noises' can be heard upon trying to start the unit . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldride Posted July 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 I don't hear anything when turning unit back on. Nothing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Need see if you have power at the unit That^ . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 It would really take some trouble shooting with a good volt/ohm meter to be able to do more than just guess. If nothing at all is happening, that would sound like a power problem. When you checked the circuit breaker, did you open it manually to fully off, then close it again? A tripped circuit breaker has the handle in a mid position and to reset it you must fully open it before closing it. It could well be that the start capacitor could have failed, but that would not likely prevent the blower from starting. Since the blower and the compressor are each powered by a separate motor, it does seem strange that neither is working at all, but it would require going up on the roof and removing the shroud and at least observing what is or isn't turning. If you own a good meter, this would be a good time to start using it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Does it have an inside blower FAN (such as low med high) PLUS a COOL (again low med high) rotary switch??? If so does the FAN run in any speed???? Ive seen bad compressor motors etc but that didn't stop the inside fan from turning. If the inside fan wont run and you don't hear any humming or buzzing whatsoever up on the roof, Id question if there's any AC Power getting to the unit. Insure the breaker isn't tripped and is fully RESET in the ON position (NOT spongy feeling in the middle) and if its delivering 120 VAC on its output (to load) terminal. Then Id check the panels white Neutral connections to the Neutral Buss looking for a loose or burned wire. There ought to be a metal junction box where the incoming 120 VAC branch supply circuit connects to the AC unit. That's a darn good place to insure good voltage is present from the panel even if with only a 120 VAC test light BE CAREFUL that's hot if the breaker is on. Best I have not being there armed with some test equipment. John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Have you checked for both legs of 110? Each a/c on a different leg. Usually something else would not work also though. I recently had this to to happen but fridge went out too. Badly oxidized plug on cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldride Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I have checked power both legs 110 V have reset breaker fully off and then back on. Next will be to get on top remove cover and check power at roof unit. My unit has a dual thermostat . I have turned the temp down on program 1 and 2, still no change. The trailer is under a car port cover with about 2.5/ 3 ft of clearance. Maybe tonight I can get the cover off and do some more checks. I'm currently working 12 hr days so time is limited somewhat. Thanks for all the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 oldride, before you go to the trouble of crawling up on the roof, I cant swear to as it I've owned too many different RV's, you might drop the inside cover and see it there's a control and/or power junction box there for electrical testing and troubleshooting. John T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEST YEARS Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 It sounds like you have one thermostat and two zones, if this is true then in the control box there is a circuit board it may have a fuse on it that you should check. You also need to check to see if you have 12 volts DC to the board if all that checks out ok then the cord that looks like a phone cord will have to be checked some times the connections corrode. I hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrknrvr Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 What thermostat do you have. You may just need to reset the thermostat. Search in your manual or online as how to rest your system. After you reset the thermostat see what works, Fan , compressor or nothing. Test rear and front both for operation. Give them a few minutes to operate before changing settings. Safe Travels. Vern Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 We had the front/bedroom ac quit on our DRV. It was the rj11 plug connecting the two units to thermostat. The control board was on the rear/living room unit. That was where the bad connection was. But I also had no second zone on thermostat. It didn't see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57becky Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 A couple years ago, we had our bedroom A/C quit. After doing some simple checks, removed the panel at the ceiling, and checked the control box, Dometic CCC2 system with one thermostat controlling two units, and discovered the circuit board was severely corroded. I ordered a new box, replaced it, and all was good again. No idea why all the corrosion, but it has worked good since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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