Will not START

[Randyretired]

We are in Cedar City Utah and the truck will not start, just clicks. The Loves Mechanic changed the batteries and the starter. Cleaned all of the connections. Still just clicks as the starter engages but that is it. Tried turning the flywheel and it is free. Any ideas?

[NoDirectionHome]

 

 

The Loves Mechanic changed the batteries and the starter

I'd have to start with the question: Based on what? There was obviously no diagnosis done. I'm thinking you have a bad terminal corrosion issue or a bad wire.

[Randyretired]

Thanks for the reply. I agree with you 100%. They tried at my insisting to jump around the battery to starter cable but used some worn flimsy car jumpers. Not sure if they even made connection. Shade tree guys at best but we are stuck here.

[Darryl&Rita]

Footer shows Autoshift. In "N"?

[MrSeas]

Check your computer fuses in the battery box area.

[Randyretired]

The autoshift shows nuetral. The "mechanic" said he checked the fuses but I will recheck. Thank you for the replies.

[roadfitter]

HI RANDY!

 

Well it is no doubt an electrical connection, probable a ground. If you haven't got jumpers can you

borrow a couple cables off your trailer battery bank and if your batteries are 12vt. borrow one of

those to bump the starter with. That should at least help eliminate some issues. The problem with these low voltage systems is not so much corrosion but oxidation on the connection points, hence the need

for dielectric grease or Vaseline petroleum jelly. I used the jelly for years before I even heard of dielectric stuff.

Well good luck I hope this helps, at least your not stuck in Maine or a blizzard some place.

 

roadfitter

[Randyretired]

We are in a Loves truck stop but afraid to put the slides out as this place fills every night. Just stopped a guy from hitting our 5er while backing. Stopped him about 2" before hitting last night. We just stopped for a burger yesterday and that was it.

[MrSeas]

There is a KOA just down the road from the Love's if you need to get the trailer towed somewhere for a night or two.

[Randyretired]

MrSeas, thanks. I just talked with the Love's manager and we have new mechanic from a place that specializes in Cummins to look at it in the AM. In the meantime they sectioned off the spot next to us for the mechanic and allow us to put 2 of our slides out. They have agreed to bill for only 1 hour of work and put the old starter back if it isn't bad. Hopefully we will get it going tomorrow.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

When mine made the dreadful "Click", It was cables that tie the batteries together, replaced the postive side first and that got us started, replaced the negative side later.

The other item to look at is the engine ground. It will corrode and rot away before you realize it.

[jkennell]

Randy: You got a DVM? If not, walk into the Loves and buy one. If so, one quick and easy check will aim you in the right direction.

 

1) Set it to DC Volts.

2) Put the red lead on the big post at the starter the battery cable connects to.

3) Put the black lead to a clean bolt/thread etc. on the metal of the starter. The DVM should read 12-14V.

4) Have somebody hit the key.

5a) If the voltage stays up...you have a key, fuse, starter solenoid, or starter problem.

5b) If the voltage drops to < 5V, you have a cable or battery problem...either the hot cable or the ground. Then move back up the cables toward the batteries until you find where the voltage does not drop. The problem is in between the last two tests.

[noteven]

Also if you have a clamp on ammeter available clamp around the + cable as near as possible to the starter. Have someone switch to start position. If you have many amps there it is the starter. If you don't have many amps refer to ^

[sclord2002]

Randy, if you use a clamp on ammeter, be sure it is made to read DC AMPS. A lot of clamp on's out there read ONLY AC AMPS. Trying to read DC amps on an AC ammeter can throw a monkey wrench into your troubleshooting. Wishing you the best of luck in getting this solved. Charlie

[ray.service]

Your starter can draw upwards of 700-800 amps. I don't think you'll find a readily available DC amp meter that will read this accurately. The cables sometimes are corroded/loose INSIDE the crimp and will drop ALL your battery voltage at the bad junction.

Give the battery cable a GOOD pull at both ends.

Jumper cables, unless they are something like 3/0 or greater and a very good connection (not just the clamps) are probably not going to do the job. They will just become heaters.

What does your dash lights/instruments etc do when you try to start.

Jeff's advice is best.

[DuffMan]

They will just become heaters.

 

 

Which will tell you where the problem lies - ie that cable you shunted with the jumpers. If all the cables are good, even the cheap jumpers will have no effect.

[MrSeas]

Any news?

[Randyretired]

Fixed yesterday afternoon. The neg battery cable to the starter would not carry the load. It was internal to the cable as the end connections were clean and we cleaned them again when this began. The first mechanic claimed to have jumped around the cables but his jumpers were small and well used. With a good set of jumpers the starter turned slowly one time. We knew what the problem was then and replaced both pos and neg cables. With all of the change it and see approach from Love's mechanics this battery cable problem cost $1,500. Love's did offer to refund the price of the starter but the old one was obviously worn some so we just left it.

 

THANKS for all of the replies. This group is great!

[MrSeas]

Glad you got it fixed.

[ray.service]

 

Which will tell you where the problem lies - ie that cable you shunted with the jumpers. If all the cables are good, even the cheap jumpers will have no effect.

so true

[Dollytrolley]

I stopped by my Heavy Equipment Electrical Guru yesterday to have the alternator load tested on my wifes Samarai (all 50 Amps.....only got 36 until I cinched up the belt tension).

 

Anyhow I told Huston about the Cedar City no start problem and I ask what the problem would be in his opinion........Huston smiled and said ......"well the very FIRST thing I do is check the grounds and at least 50% or more that fixes the problem,,,,,now if a rig is towed in here and the owner has spent $500 to $2,000 or more and it will not start than I know with about 95% certainty it IS THE GROUND......"

 

Huston's dad was a old-time DC electrician who taught Huston well and he would always tell Huston as long as DC has a ground you will be a rich man fixing ground problems after everyone else has been trying to fix the positive side or replacing every component...........

 

And indeed Huston is a rich man........

 

Drive on.....(Stay well.....grounded)