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Fuel tank leak


Ronbo

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I noticed a fuel leak from the passenger side tank last night. It was one of the hoses. I attempted to remove it this am. Put a wrench on the hose and the whole elbow was moving. I was able to pull the elbow with the pickup tube partially out of the tank. I don't believe there are any threads to screw into. There is a round plate held onto the tank with screws I believe. Hard to see it is so dirty. The tank was full this morning and we drove from Sacramemto to LA so there is still too much fuel in it to do much.

 

Can I purchase a replacement bulkhead for the hoses?

Do I need a gasket or silicone?

Is this a dealer item or junkyard item?

Am I looking at a new tank?

There are 2 hoses, supply and return. The vent is more forward.

If I have to replace the tank do I have to use the same capacity, 120 gals, or can I go bigger? I have 2 120 gal tanks.

Can I have a 120 and say a 150 and have them work together properly?

If I need a tank what is a good price for used tank?

Anyone know a source around Houston?

I am going to replace the supply and return hoses to the tanks while I am under there.

I know there is a check valve before the filter on the Ecm cooler. Is there another check valve on the return to the tank?

 

Any and all comments will be appreciated. I have 2 weeks in Conroe and Houston to get this done.

If a dealer item to replace bulkhead, are they standard of proprietary to Kenworth?

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The screwed in round plate is for a fuel sender. The draw/return fittings go into their own holes, which in the older style was just a 1/2 NPT hole and the draw tube was brazed to the bottom of that fitting. So as you've seen even if the 'bulkhead' part of the tank gives it up you don't suck any air. New trucks aren't so lucky. Anyways, you just need to fix that pipe thread somehow just enough to make it stiff again and somehow get the aluminum out of the threads of your draw fitting so it all goes back together again. Maybe you can tap it deeper? Or, as much as I hate to say it, some JB weld to keep you going for awhile? I haven't tried it, but in a pinch I suppose a guy could make a thicker round plate and tap that for a draw tube to get by? [just don't run the truck as empty as before...]

 

The whole 'bulkhead' unit is stamped with all the dates and certifications and welded on as part of the tank. So it isn't sold as a replacement part. In fact, if going with an OEM replacement tank you have to cut it out and send it in to get your core charge back.

 

You can combine a 120 and a 150, but 150's need three of the crossbraces under there between tanks. So if going used be sure to snag a crossbrace setup from the donor truck as well. And note that all crossbrace bushing plates are not created equal either. Some have the bushing centered and some have it offset. Be sure what you are snagging is the right one so you don't have to go back. They all look the same in the mud under a truck....

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Interesting timing. Our T2 has recently developed a leak on the same tank. Ours has always had the dip-tube loose, but as long as I shut off the fuel nozzle when it clicks, and don't park with the passenger side downhill, life has been good. Lately, the level got a lot lower where the leak would begin. Due to travel commitments, we simply stopped for fuel more often. Today I had a chance to pull the skirts, and found a hole rubbed through the tank wall, from the forward edge of the rear skirt. The one where the optional step would be. 5200 marine sealant is curing right now, as a temporary fix, until we get set into our summer digs. I'll likely drain the tank and pull it for proper welding repair, and probably even fix the dip-tube threads then.

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What was rough was the drilling into the lesion and the anesthesia wore off. They couldn't give me any more but had to finish. Wow my leg is sore. They are talking possible multiple meyaloma and bone marrow aspiration. Nurses tell me if it is confirmed, this is the one to get. I will have to have a rod inserted in my femur. Looks like we may be here a while.

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