Scrap Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I want to hear about it! So all kidding aside, there's a couple of changes in the works that I'm not really 100% on board with. But then again, I've never had a dash mounted spike like a Volvo or Freightliner either so that's not really in my mental 'oh _ _ _ _' repertoire either. My hand goes right to the RH side of the steering wheel where the valve has been all my life. So what are things you've used it for? I need to recreate the situation on the track and see if what I got going on is any better. Even boring old trailer tug test is fine. Not using the air valve but squeezing your electric brake controller is cool too. You spike it to back your double trailer and towed? Slipped your way around or through something? Was all the action in front of you or in the mirror? Anyways, thanks in advance for what y'all have to share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIBERNUT Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Yeah, I wouldn't be without mine (Johnson bar) . I relocated it to the Autoshift pedestal along w/ the jake swiches, my hand falls right on it now. 2000 Volvo 635 A/S, N-14 Cummins"The Phoenix"'03 KA 38KSWB http://s918.photobucket.com/user/sibernut/library/?sort=6&page=1Furkids- Sibe's CH. Sedona & Tseika Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adept99 Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I use mine to hold the rig on a hill in traffic. Only works with the trailer, but don't need it when bob tailing. BTW, you coming to the MATS show this year? Paul Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog... 2001 Volvo 770 Autoshift, Singled, w/ Aluminum Bed - Toy Draggin 2013 395AMP XLR Thunderbolt Toy Hauler 2013 Smart Passion 2012 CanAm Spyder RT 2013 Harley Davidson Street Glide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billr Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Hang an Air freshener on it! Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups 2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio 2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3 2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beyerjf Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 There a more than a few instances where I use the trailer only application valve. You mentioned a tug test. I recently delivered a brand new Schnieder trailer to their Atlanta terminal. The trailer had at least 4 decals on it listing the 7 items all drivers should do when hooking up a trailer, including a tug test. But none of their tractors have a trolley valve. I know, you can leave the emergency valve in the evacuated position a do the same thing, but the trolley valve is good for more than that, including preventing a jackknife under certain circumstances. After all, it is their load, their brakes can stop it right? But I know why they are being eliminated. The entry level driver of today has no idea how to use on properly. The same with the switch to automatics. I am glad I am on the way out of the business. Jeff Beyer temporarily retired from Trailer Transit 2000 Freightliner Argosy Cabover 2008 Work and Play 34FK Homebase NW Indiana, no longer full time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I use it for tug tests all the time. I've used it a couple of times in slippery conditions but generally ONLY for tug test, which I do EVERY time. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broncohauler Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Scrap, My work truck is a 2015 Volvo with the broker handle on the dash, and I'm NOT a fan of it at all. Working nights it's to hard to locate in the dark, and to close to the dash valves for me. I use it all the time for not just a tug test, but more often for sliding and locking my trailer axles. Our new trailers have air actuated slide locks. You exuast the trailer to unlock the tandems and re- supply it to lock them. Then use the broker handle to slide and relock into position. Any factory input please leave it on the column. Most of our drivers have said the same thing. Thanks for asking. Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil D Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 I use mine every time that the tractor needs to be moving and the trailer needs to be stationary -- tug tests, hitching up, and unhitching. I've also used it a few times just to see how much trailer braking I was actually getting (bleeding the hydraulic brakes on the trailer has been problematic at times). Phil 2002 Teton Royal Aspen 2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore. ET Air Hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 ICE. I drove 4 hours in freezing rain slick enough that even a light application of the tractor brakes made the rear axle of the lightly loaded HDT start sliding. I used the bar to GENTLY slow down without the truck slipping. Also, sometimes on long gentle downgrades will alternate between truck and trailer only, just to save air and unload the truck brakes a bit more. (May not be good--but seems to work in some scenarios--the Jbar hooked to an electric brake controller uses less air than the truck brakes) I also use it regularly to test the trailer brakes. Every hour or so, grab the J bar and move gently until you feel the trailer brake activation. I've had several times I've lost the connection to the brakes while driving. Having the ability to activate the trailer brakes separately as a quick test while rolling is essential...and the Jbar by the wheel is a LOT easier to find without looking than the slide on the controller, and a lot easier to feather. Slam the slide on the controller and you may well skid the wheels. No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick & Alana Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Tug test, hooking and unhooking Rick and Alana Fulltimers 2018 Newmar Ventana 4037 2020 Jeep Gladiator 1997 Jeep TJ 2009 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3 formerly owned 2000 Volvo 770, 600 Cummins ISX,18 speed autoshift, 14 foot "garage" ET,Jackalopee,MaxBrake,Pressure Pro pro www.rickandalanasgreatadventures.blogspot.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haulin Boat Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Kicking the truck out of cruise control. You can keep your foot on the throttle, allows me a smoother transition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyA Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 My Brake Smart is on the lower left of the dash. To use the red controller handle I must lean forward and look down. To activate the trailer brakes via the Johnson Bar takes a drop of my right hand and never take my eyes off the road. There are times when a strong wind gust or bad road unexpectedly moves the trailer. When that happens I like to "tighten up" by tapping the Johnson Bar. Tug test? Yes - easier to do. Then other times I like for the trailer brakes to come on earlier than the Brake Smart is set for. Again, the Johnson Bar is more accessible and my first grab. I have used it when backing the trailer into a tight spot to increase my angle of attack without moving the trailer further back - but only on dirt, sand or gravel, never pavement. I also like to hang the remote start/stop transmitter for my APU off the bar. That way I don't lose it. I would definitely miss having it. Randy, Nancy and Oscar "The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks. ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan412 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 On my dump truck I use it to hold the trailer when I lengthen and shorten the reach on the pup. 2011 Volvo D13 485/1750 Eaton 13 Speed 2016 Montana 3820FK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big5er Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I use mine every time I hitch and unhitch. I back up close to the trailer and plug in the trailer electrical cord. I get back in and hold the johnson bar to keep the trailer from moving and back under it. Before I drive away, I use it to do a pull test and when I get ready to unhitch I do the reverse of hitching: unlatch the hitch, hold the johnson bar so the trailer doesn't move as I drive out from under it. I then get to listen to all the helpful onlookers scream at me that the electrical cord is still connected. After the truck and trailer seperate, I get out and unplug the the cord. I do not rely on wheel chocks to hold the trailer in place during hitching or unhitching. My trailer has hydraulic disc brakes which hold better than a flimsy RV wheel chock ever will. MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~ 2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 2014 smart Fortwo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewhoknowslittle Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I use mine every time I hitch and unhitch. I back up close to the trailer and plug in the trailer electrical cord. I get back in and hold the johnson bar to keep the trailer from moving and back under it. Before I drive away, I use it to do a pull test and when I get ready to unhitch I do the reverse of hitching: unlatch the hitch, hold the johnson bar so the trailer doesn't move as I drive out from under it. I then get to listen to all the helpful onlookers scream at me that the electrical cord is still connected. After the truck and trailer seperate, I get out and unplug the the cord. I do not rely on wheel chocks to hold the trailer in place during hitching or unhitching. My trailer has hydraulic disc brakes which hold better than a flimsy RV wheel chock ever will. X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I use mine every time that the tractor needs to be moving and the trailer needs to be stationary -- tug tests, hitching up, and unhitching. I've also used it a few times just to see how much trailer braking I was actually getting (bleeding the hydraulic brakes on the trailer has been problematic at times). That brings up a point I did not. I don't use it for unhooking because I have "parking brakes" in essence on my trailer. As does Phil, since he also has a BluDot system. As long as you have air in the trailer tank, simply disconnecting the emergency (red) line will lock your trailer brakes until the air bleeds off - days, in theory. So to hook up I first get near the trailer in "hookup ready" position. Hook up my air lines, air the trailer, then simply use the Johnson bar when backing into it. On the unhook side - remove the lines and the trailer is locked down. When parked, unhooked and leveled I bleed the air off of the trailer, since I do not want my disc brakes to remain locked. It is not good for the lines and seals to remain fully pressured. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob86ZZ4 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Kicking the truck out of cruise control. You can keep your foot on the throttle, allows me a smoother transition. I've owned my truck for 7 years and just figured that out a few weeks ago. I have electric trailer brakes so don't use it for them. I was on the road and my sister-in-law was riding up front with me. She asked what that lever was for on the side of the steering wheel. I said it's to apply air trailer brakes for certain times. Then I gave it a yank and the cruise cut off. Wow, what a surprise. I had always just switched the power off at the dash switch when I wanted to cancel the cruise. I hate to apply the brakes to cancel because I think that's a waste of fuel and brakes. The problem with switching off the power is that it loses the memory for the set speed. Now I know I can cancel it with the Johnson bar and resume without having to use the go pedal. '03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters. St. Paul, MN www.bobwinsor.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Bob. I'll have to try that on my oldy! Nice. BTW, one good reason to use a light tap on the brakes or the Johnson bar to shut off the cruise: It lets the idiot tailgating you know you are changing speed! And replacing the brakes is WAY cheaper than repairing the rear body panels! No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob86ZZ4 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 I agree. But it's much more rare that somebody is close on me when I want to cancel the cruise. Somebody told me the brake lights come on with the jake on some trucks. I don't know if mine do or not. I'll have to have somebody behind me that I can talk to on the phone and see if they do. '03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters. St. Paul, MN www.bobwinsor.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Thanks guys. I need to get it all together and get y'all represented. LOL air freshener hanger..... Do I get to bring my Pam Anderson to work with me? Nope, no Kentucky for me this year. Had to sit this one out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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