Solar system requirements!

[cluwood56]

My wife and I plan to move out of our house in the black hole for solar of the United States. (upstate New York)

We want to be where the sun shines more than 2 months out of the year. We are minimalist when it comes to energy needs. Plan on using lp for most energy ( I work for a major retailer and when I retire I till get a discount).

What do I really need for boon docking solar. Plan on being in areas I don't need AC on a regular basis!

[oldjohnt]

I thought I responded earlier but I don't see it now?? I apologize if its a double posting.

 

GOOD QUESTION, but its so wide open and general I cant give any exact answer. That being said and making a few guesses, here are my thoughts:

 

1) I take it you are NOT on the utility power grid??? If you were, a grid tie system is an option, no need for expensive battery energy storage. When the sun shines you sell energy back to the utility but when not you use normal grid power

 

2) If so (NOT on utility grid) and you want to use Solar and utilize it when there's no sunshine, you will need batteries to store the energy harvested when the sun shines. In an off grid battery energy storage system you might use the huge say L 16 Lead Acid Storage batteries or the smaller more typical 6 volt Golf Deep Cycle Cart Batteries, be they flooded lead acid or AGM or even the newer Lithium technology. The more batteries the more Amp Hours of energy you can store. You also need a Solar Charge Controller which takes the raw solar panel energy output and regulates the charge to the battery bank .

 

3) In the event you need to use 120 VAC appliances, you would need a DC (typically 12, 24, 48 Volt DC etc.) to 120 VAC Inverter and Id recommend it be a Pure Sine Wave PSW.

 

4) You mentioned AC, if so that's a HUGE load and would require high capacity solar panels (maybe 1000 to 2000 or more watts, depends on load) and a quite substantial battery bank (maybe 1000 to 3000 Amp Hours, depends on load) and a huge, maybe 5000 or more watt (depends on AC load) DC to 120 VAC Inverter. THATS ALMOST IMPRACTIAL AND VERY EXPENSIVE TO RUN MUCH AC STRICTLY OFF SOLAR. Perhaps a 4000 to 7500 watt (depends on AC load) Gas or LPG Genset is an option for short term AC versus the huge amount of solar (panels, batteries, inverters) that would be required?????

 

5) If you don't require 120 VAC you can still operate many 12 VDC appliances such as we do in our RV's

 

6) I would use an LP Gas Fridge for sure

 

7) The Amish around us use typical 4000 to 5000 watt fixed solar array panels at the correct fixed angle facing the southern sky, maybe 1000 or more Amp Hours often L 16 or say Trojan T 105 6 volt deep cycle golf cart battery banks, maybe a 4000 to 5000 watt DC to AC Inverter. BUT THEY DONT RUN ANY AC FOR HOURS ON END !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

8) If you do NOT use AC and an LP Gas Fridge I could imagine a typical small system to be at least 400/500 watts of solar panels,,,,,,,,,,,an MPPT Solar Charge Controller,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,at least 4 golf cart batteries (around 450 Amp Hours of energy storage capacity) such as Trojan T 105's,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,a 2000 Watt PSW 120 VAC output Inverter. A typical bigger system might include 1000 watts of solar, MPPT Charge Controller,,,,,,,,,,maybe 6 golf cart batteries (maybe 675 Amp Hours) maybe a 3000 to 4000 watt DC to 120 VAC output Inverter.

 

NOTE these are NOT exact, only raw typical range of numbers and based on pure guesses of your energy needs SO DONT ANYONE HAVE A CALF. HOWEVER if you need to run AC for very long YOU NEED MORE

 

Nuff said for now

 

John T Retired Electrical Engineer and NOT a solar expert so no warranty, see what the solar experts have to say

[Jack Mayer]

Take a look at my website for general info. Skip over the detailed info until you are ready for it. There is a "Phase in" approach outlined there. and a methodology to calculate your needs - called an "energy audit" by the industry. Take a look and see if it provides you any guidance. There is no single answer based on what you have said so far. Some indication of the size or the RV and the types of things you will do and expect to do would provide us more info to better hazard a "guesstimate".

 

These days, for people seriously into boondocking, I usually "start" by suggesting as many panels as their roof will hold (unshaded). Then go down/up from there based on budget and need. Panels are cheap enough per watt these days that for most people that is the best "starting" answer. But there is far more to the system than just the panels. Website is jackdanmayer.com

[Smitty77_7]

In addition to Jack's site, a great read that allows you to dive as shallow or deep as you desire:)!, also check out AM Solar. They have good easy to read fundamentals.

 

I like the idea of easing into this. Get out and about for awhile under multiple seasons and boon docking vs non boon docking, and get a feel for where your needs fit.

 

When you do put your toe in the water and start the glow of solar. Suggest on each major component, you consider future upgrade paths. Say the costs of going to a fatter wire is minimal, and it gives you the ability to add more power as needed. On a controller, don't just size for the now installation, leave some headroom to add more panels if you find you need them. Etc.

 

Another advantage of taking your time, is that the rapidly evolving Lithium options are both continuing to mature, more products are becoming available, and costs are dropping. IMO, for a moderate to heavy boon dock usage - Lithium solutions are becoming cost effective today. Mostly due to the longer Life Cycles, which of course then delays that payback period.

 

Best to luck to you, have fun!

Smitty

[cluwood56]

Here is question I have which I have when going solar!

If I go solar why not dump the generator which I should be able to sell.

Add a couple extra batteries and a small motor driven alternator when they get low!

I have had solar hot water for 30 years and never questioned why! But I question why we stay we old methods we no are not efficient.

Why charge batteries with solar to run 120 volt appliances.

120 volt ac is only good for long distance transmission.

Short distance 12 volt works fine.

You can get most appliances to work on 12 volt , maybe ac is the exception 12 volt ac is expensive.

[oldjohnt]

Cluwood, good questions, FWIW (Nothing) here are my thoughts:

 

1) If I go solar why not dump the generator which I should be able to sell.

 

If you have no need whatsoever for a generator WORKS FOR ME. If you need 120 VAC however, you either need a generator or go the battery and inverter route so which is more practical and efficient???????????/ DEPENDS ON YOUR ENERGY NEEDS. I like having options, so am hanging onto my Generator

 

2) Add a couple extra batteries and a small motor driven alternator when they get low!

 

That will indeed "work" HOWEVER as far as a more correct and complete charge in order to extend battery life and performance, a modern 3 or 4 stage so called "Smart Charger" does a better job then an automotive alternator. HEY an alternator will work don't get me wrong or have a calf, I'm ONLY saying a modern computer controlled progressive 3/4 stage smart charger is better in the long run for our deep cycle batteries.

 

3) I have had solar hot water for 30 years and never questioned why! But I question why we stay we old methods we no are not efficient.

 

I LOVE AND AGREE WITH SOLAR HOT WATER

 

4) Why charge batteries with solar to run 120 volt appliances.

 

ONLY IF you need to power 120 VAC appliances would you need to go the battery and inverter route

 

5) You can get most appliances to work on 12 volt , maybe ac is the exception 12 volt ac is expensive

 

Indeed there are many 12 VDC appliances available and that saves the conversion from DC to AC and its inefficient wasted heat losses.

 

I AGREE, I like 12 VDC when practical and efficient provided you use sufficient size cables and keep distances short........... I think Inverters are well over 90% efficient if you MUST use 120 VAC............Gotta love solar hot water.............

 

John T NOT a solar expert so no warranty

[skp51443]

A generator is essential in my opinion, too many times you have no sun. Might be weather or just wanting to park in the shade where it is cooler. We saw this enough we did some thinking about moving our solar panels from the fiver to the truck, a couple friends did do it with mixed results so we passed on doing it.

 

For me either a 1000 or 2000 watt inverter-generator like the little Honda units do fine for my needs. The 1000 is enough if you have a good sized inverter but it won't carry most coffee pots, microwave or an electric skillet making the 2000 watt unit more attractive. Check the long-term wattage on a generator, not the surge rating so you don't get surprised. With a good converter you can use it, powered by the generator, to keep the batteries up while using the inverter to make AC power for the RV if you are using more power than the panels are making.

 

12 volts is fine for a lot of stuff, lights, fans, and a lot of electronics. You can use more stuff on other DC voltages (no AC conversion) if you get some DC-DC converters to match the voltages you need. The biggest worry for me when using the RV 12 volts to power something designed to run off an AC powered 12 volt converter is that the RV's voltage can vary from the mid 10 volt range (low battery and high loads) to over 15 volts (during equalization) and that may be more than the internal power circuitry can deal with.

[hemsteadc]

 

Add a couple extra batteries and a small motor driven alternator when they get low!

 

Why charge batteries with solar to run 120 volt appliances.

120 volt ac is only good for long distance transmission.

Short distance 12 volt works fine.

You can get most appliances to work on 12 volt , maybe ac is the exception 12 volt ac is expensive.

Driven by what motor? Because 120v appliances are available everywhere and work well. 12 volts require fatter wire, sometimes really fat. Most appliances? No, not anything that works very well, especially things that make heat.

 

The 'efficiency' argument is highly overrated.

[cluwood56]

So my real question is if you have ample solar panels with batteries and an inverter why carry the generator?

Like I first said I am a minimalist when it comes to energy and Propane will be cheap. Heat and hot water covered.

Don't think of AC ever being used! I cook with gas mainly and won't get upset if I don't have a microwave.

[oldjohnt]

""""So my real question is if you have ample solar panels with batteries and an inverter why carry the generator?""""""

 

If you have AMPLE solar panels and batteries to handle all your long term loads WITHOUT EVER DISCHARGING THE BATTERIES TOO MUCH OVER 30% DOWN (50% Max in my opinion) VERY OFTEN OR LONG, you can get by just fine with no generator I guess.

 

The thing is if you don't have enough battery and solar capacity and/or if there's no good long term sunshine and you end up deep discharging your batteries often, their life expectancy is diminished.

 

ITS STRICTLY YOUR CHOICE NOT OURS and depends on your energy requirements and solar and battery capacity ONLY YOU CAN DECIDE WHATS NEEDED

 

John T

[skp51443]

So my real question is if you have ample solar panels with batteries and an inverter why carry the generator?

Like I first said I am a minimalist when it comes to energy and Propane will be cheap. Heat and hot water covered.

Don't think of AC ever being used! I cook with gas mainly and won't get upset if I don't have a microwave.

 

It isn't exactly a question of "ample solar panels" as that really only addresses one part of the issue. Ample for a sunny day, good. Ample for a shaded spot in cloudy weather in January, fantastic. But what ample means is a bit off here, instead say you are willing to live within the limits your solar system can provide and it would give a better picture of the situation.

 

I have been in conditions where my panels made zero power for weeks on end, no way my battery bank could have supported me if I turned off everything but the propane detector! Wonderful spot, deep in some forest so deep and dark it was unbelievable and we'd have been a lot poorer not taking the chance to park there when we got the chance.

 

Other spots have given me an option of parking in the sun and living in a very hot RV with an unhappy spouse or moving into nearby shaded sites and being a lot cooler. This was a common issue and while we could have gone further north and sought higher, cooler sunny campsites it would have caused us to miss what we were in the original spots for. Flexibility in power needs is one thing but having your power needs dictate your camping location is another issue entirely.

 

As has been said, you have to decide, if you want to invest a small fortune in your solar system (panels and batteries) to make sure it provides enough power in a few transient conditions/locations then you'll be happy. Alternatively, if you are willing to reduce your power use to the level your system can support and leave areas where it can't support the minimum you need that will work too. Maybe it will be great for you but not so good your spouse, better check to be sure that there is no objection to the rather Spartan conditions you'll be living under.

 

For us it made a lot more sense to spend what a 100 watt panel cost to get a 1000 watt generator and have the power to stay where and when we wanted. Today the trade-off is a bit different, you sure can't get a 1000 watt generator for what a 100 watt panel costs! But other limits still come into play and there is no practical way to add roof area although some folks are trying sidewall and ground mounted panels.

 

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An issue I missed above was the option for an alternator/motor setup to use instead of a conventional generator setup. That can work and if you visit yachting sites you can see some very good charging solutions that are in the same class as a multi-stage RV charging system. The downside is weight and noise, you are unlikely to be able to design something that is going to be as quiet as one of the small generators, they do a really good job of both keeping noise from being created (variable speed motors) and in containing (mufflers, baffles and sound control materials) what is created. I'd guess that you'd see around a 25% weight penalty from doing your own integration over a factory built unit too.

 

 

It all comes down to what you are willing to compromise on, the more compromises you make the more options you have at lower cash cost, the cost in your lifestyle options may be more than you are willing to give up. We decided that we could give up air conditioning to avoid a large generator but not our computers, TV, microwave, coffee pot and espresso machine. Your choices will be different but think them through (with the spouse) before you paint yourself into a corner.

[cluwood56]

 

It isn't exactly a question of "ample solar panels" as that really only addresses one part of the issue. Ample for a sunny day, good. Ample for a shaded spot in cloudy weather in January, fantastic. But what ample means is a bit off here, instead say you are willing to live within the limits your solar system can provide and it would give a better picture of the situation.

 

I have been in conditions where my panels made zero power for weeks on end, no way my battery bank could have supported me if I turned off everything but the propane detector! Wonderful spot, deep in some forest so deep and dark it was unbelievable and we'd have been a lot poorer not taking the chance to park there when we got the chance.

 

Other spots have given me an option of parking in the sun and living in a very hot RV with an unhappy spouse or moving into nearby shaded sites and being a lot cooler. This was a common issue and while we could have gone further north and sought higher, cooler sunny campsites it would have caused us to miss what we were in the original spots for. Flexibility in power needs is one thing but having your power needs dictate your camping location is another issue entirely.

 

As has been said, you have to decide, if you want to invest a small fortune in your solar system (panels and batteries) to make sure it provides enough power in a few transient conditions/locations then you'll be happy. Alternatively, if you are willing to reduce your power use to the level your system can support and leave areas where it can't support the minimum you need that will work too. Maybe it will be great for you but not so good your spouse, better check to be sure that there is no objection to the rather Spartan conditions you'll be living under.

 

For us it made a lot more sense to spend what a 100 watt panel cost to get a 1000 watt generator and have the power to stay where and when we wanted. Today the trade-off is a bit different, you sure can't get a 1000 watt generator for what a 100 watt panel costs! But other limits still come into play and there is no practical way to add roof area although some folks are trying sidewall and ground mounted panels.

 

---------

 

An issue I missed above was the option for an alternator/motor setup to use instead of a conventional generator setup. That can work and if you visit yachting sites you can see some very good charging solutions that are in the same class as a multi-stage RV charging system. The downside is weight and noise, you are unlikely to be able to design something that is going to be as quiet as one of the small generators, they do a really good job of both keeping noise from being created (variable speed motors) and in containing (mufflers, baffles and sound control materials) what is created. I'd guess that you'd see around a 25% weight penalty from doing your own integration over a factory built unit too.

 

 

It all comes down to what you are willing to compromise on, the more compromises you make the more options you have at lower cash cost, the cost in your lifestyle options may be more than you are willing to give up. We decided that we could give up air conditioning to avoid a large generator but not our computers, TV, microwave, coffee pot and espresso machine. Your choices will be different but think them through (with the spouse) before you paint yourself into a corner.

I know my wife well and she is more frugal than I am! As long as she has hot water and heat she will be happy! Thanks for the info on the multi stage rv charging!

[cluwood56]

On the generator issue did a little more research.

The Onan 5KW weighs 279 pounds. A Honda powered alternator tied to a 3 stage smart charger weighs in at around 90 lbs.

Doesn't make more sense to go the the alternator route and upgrade the inverter if needed

[skp51443]

The Onan 5K puts out about 5000 watts of power, roughly 400 amps of 12 volt DC after conversion. I can't imagine an RV battery bank that could actually use that much power even for a couple minutes at the start of the bulk charge so it seems like vastly more power than you'd need from what I thought you indicated above.

 

The Onan 5K (link below) has about a 13 horsepower motor, a lot of sound suppression bits as well as the 5.5 KW alternator and weighs 288 pounds.

 

https://powersuite.cummins.com/PS5/PS5Content/SiteContent/en/Binary_Asset/pdf/Consumer/specsheets/a-1425.pdf

 

I didn't do any looking for a stand-alone 13 horse motor or 5.5 KW alternator for the build your own concept but I'm really surprised you found something that light. To the weight of the engine and alternator you'd have to add your sound suppression bits as well as a mounting frame so don't forget to add that into your calculations too.

 

--------------

 

In your situation as described above I just can't see any need for 5000 plus watts of power so we aren't thinking the same thing at all. I see that I need far more information on what you are planning.

 

How big a battery bank (number of batteries and size) are you planning and what technology (flooded, AGM, Lithium) batteries?

 

What will the safe charging current be for the bank?

 

What is the maximum wattage you expect to draw for your other (non battery charging) stuff 120 volt stuffed hooked to the generator while you are charging?

 

--------------------

 

As you look at the above information you might want to rethink the size of the generator/alternator you are looking at and make sure it matches both your power and weight/size needs. From reading your first posts I'd really have thought you were looking for a small light generator setup that would charge your battery bank in a reasonable amount of time, not a huge 5000 watt beast that should easily run 2 air conditioners.

 

 

For charging purposes you can use the Trojan numbers and be close enough for initial design planning for most other brands of flooded batteries. Adjust as needed if you are planning on another type battery bank.

 

So say you have two T-105 (six volt) batteries connected in series giving you a battery bank rated at 225 Amps at the 20 hour rate:

 

T-105 - http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

 

And you want to hit them with the maximum safe charging current at the start of the bulk cycle:

 

Scroll to Charger Selection - http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/

 

 

the charge rate should be between 10% and 13% of the battery’s 20-hour AH capacity. For example, a battery with a 20-hour capacity rating of 225 AH will use a charger rated between approximately 23 and 30 amps

 

So your 225 Amp bank can take between 23 and 30 amps, planning on a middle value of 25 Amps is reasonable. If you double that bank size to four T-105s in two strings you get 450 Amps at the 20 hour rate and about 50 Amps as a safe charging rate.

 

From personal experience an old clunky Honda (pre-inverter type) EX-1000 with a true 843 watts of output will drive well over 50 amps into that four battery bank using an IntelliPower 45 amp smart charger with the Charge Wizard set to boost mode, and it will do it at 7000 feet with no problems.

 

Just using numbers rather than the measurements I took off my system above the 843 watts of AC power comes very close to being 70 watts of DC power so my limitation was my converter, not the little Honda. I could have easily upgraded the charger to a 75 amp version and gotten half again as much DC power using the same 1000/843 watt generator but that would have been a damaging charge current for my small (4 T-105s) battery bank.

 

Looking at the current Honda units the 1000 at 30 pounds is really rated at 900 watts so it gives you a bit more than my old one.

 

http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu1000i

 

Now if you have more than six T-105 golf-cart sized flooded batteries or another battery type that can take more charging current the 2000 or 3000 may better match your maximum charging current. The 2000 at 45 pounds and 1600 watts or the 3000 at 78 pounds and 2600 watts. That would be roughly 130 or 216 charging Amps.

 

http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators

 

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Hopefully I'm helping here not adding to the confusion?

[cluwood56]

The Onan 5K puts out about 5000 watts of power, roughly 400 amps of 12 volt DC after conversion. I can't imagine an RV battery bank that could actually use that much power even for a couple minutes at the start of the bulk charge so it seems like vastly more power than you'd need from what I thought you indicated above.

 

The Onan 5K (link below) has about a 13 horsepower motor, a lot of sound suppression bits as well as the 5.5 KW alternator and weighs 288 pounds.

 

https://powersuite.cummins.com/PS5/PS5Content/SiteContent/en/Binary_Asset/pdf/Consumer/specsheets/a-1425.pdf

 

I didn't do any looking for a stand-alone 13 horse motor or 5.5 KW alternator for the build your own concept but I'm really surprised you found something that light. To the weight of the engine and alternator you'd have to add your sound suppression bits as well as a mounting frame so don't forget to add that into your calculations too.

 

--------------

 

In your situation as described above I just can't see any need for 5000 plus watts of power so we aren't thinking the same thing at all. I see that I need far more information on what you are planning.

 

How big a battery bank (number of batteries and size) are you planning and what technology (flooded, AGM, Lithium) batteries?

 

What will the safe charging current be for the bank?

 

What is the maximum wattage you expect to draw for your other (non battery charging) stuff 120 volt stuffed hooked to the generator while you are charging?

 

--------------------

 

As you look at the above information you might want to rethink the size of the generator/alternator you are looking at and make sure it matches both your power and weight/size needs. From reading your first posts I'd really have thought you were looking for a small light generator setup that would charge your battery bank in a reasonable amount of time, not a huge 5000 watt beast that should easily run 2 air conditioners.

 

 

For charging purposes you can use the Trojan numbers and be close enough for initial design planning for most other brands of flooded batteries. Adjust as needed if you are planning on another type battery bank.

 

So say you have two T-105 (six volt) batteries connected in series giving you a battery bank rated at 225 Amps at the 20 hour rate:

 

T-105 - http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf

 

And you want to hit them with the maximum safe charging current at the start of the bulk cycle:

 

Scroll to Charger Selection - http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/

 

 

So your 225 Amp bank can take between 23 and 30 amps, planning on a middle value of 25 Amps is reasonable. If you double that bank size to four T-105s in two strings you get 450 Amps at the 20 hour rate and about 50 Amps as a safe charging rate.

 

From personal experience an old clunky Honda (pre-inverter type) EX-1000 with a true 843 watts of output will drive well over 50 amps into that four battery bank using an IntelliPower 45 amp smart charger with the Charge Wizard set to boost mode, and it will do it at 7000 feet with no problems.

 

Just using numbers rather than the measurements I took off my system above the 843 watts of AC power comes very close to being 70 watts of DC power so my limitation was my converter, not the little Honda. I could have easily upgraded the charger to a 75 amp version and gotten half again as much DC power using the same 1000/843 watt generator but that would have been a damaging charge current for my small (4 T-105s) battery bank.

 

Looking at the current Honda units the 1000 at 30 pounds is really rated at 900 watts so it gives you a bit more than my old one.

 

http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu1000i

 

Now if you have more than six T-105 golf-cart sized flooded batteries or another battery type that can take more charging current the 2000 or 3000 may better match your maximum charging current. The 2000 at 45 pounds and 1600 watts or the 3000 at 78 pounds and 2600 watts. That would be roughly 130 or 216 charging Amps.

 

http://powerequipment.honda.com/generators

 

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Hopefully I'm helping here not adding to the confusion?

Just made me think I have to set down and do the math myself!

You are all correct!

Too many variables to give to some one else!

That being said! What are the energy requirements for the systems in a motor home?

I know my house requirements!

But the motor home will be a new world to me!

I appreciate the input!

[oldjohnt]

"That being said! What are the energy requirements for the systems in a motor home?"

 

 

SAME ANSWER it depends on your energy needs, GREAT INFO FROM STANLEY

 

 

Iffffffffff you use LED lighting and an LP Gas fired fridge, occasional vent fans and water pump, its not so cold the furnace has to run very very often, and don't need to dry camp days and days on end...(and I have a 4KW Genset when needed)

 

Id say the MINIMUM (for my use, maybe NOT others) is 200 watts of Solar and two true deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries for around 230 Amp Hours of energy storage

 

HOWEVER I started with that but now have 400 watts of solar and four golf cart batteries for 460 Amp Hours and I can pretty well dry camp indefinitely and the batteries (subject to sun) stay charged.

 

ALSO some on here who require more energy then I do may have like 500 to even 1000 solar watts and 500 to 1000 Amp Hours of battery energy storage

 

TO EACH THEIR OWN, THERES NO RIGHT OR WRONG ANSWER, IT DEPENDS ON YOUR ENERGY USE AND SUN AND WEATHER but I still consider 200 solar watts and 230 Amp Hours as a minimum for my energy use, but like 400 and 460 MUCH BETTER. If you use more energy or want to dry camp longer YOU NEED MORE

 

John T Live from Agave Gulch Military Family Camp (Air Force Base) in Tucson Arizona.......................

[NH2]

Stan did a great job outlining the needs for a generator. We have an Onan 6,500 on board and a portable Honda 2000. We hardly ever use the Onan but wouldn't want to think about life without the Honda. We have 700watts of solar panels running two PSW inverters; one 600w inverter is dedicated to the 18 cu ft residential refrigerator.

Mark

[skp51443]

cluwood56, if you use the reply option rather than the quote button you won't have the post you are looking at duplicated in your post, it is at the bottom of the topic. Or you can just delete all or as much of the quote as you desire.

 

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An energy audit is the way to go, you can do a quick and nasty one by adding up the power draws on your device labels and Googling for stuff you can't find a label on. To do a real audit you need something like a Kill-A-Watt meter (@ $20-30) and a good multi-meter (@ $30-50) with a minimum 10 Amp range, 20 is better.

 

Turn on each device and let it settle in for a minute and then record the power draw, multiply by how many hours you'll use it and you'll have your Amp hour requirements. Add in 20% for a system loss factor and you'll be near the number for your solar/generator power requirements.

 

---------------

 

We needed a single 100 watt panel to survive in the winter (lowest production and most usage) but were less aggravated by the limitations with 200 watts of panels. A key power saver is we avoided the RV furnace and used an un-powered propane heater, we also ditched our incandescent lights.

 

We added 2 more 100 watt panels for 400 watts on the roof and were a lot happier as now we had power for some TV watching and our laptops and satellite internet gear. Summers we didn't have much problem as long as we had full sun, winters we'd supplement with the little Honda as needed.

 

At today's prices, which make me cry when I think of our $500-600, 100 watt panels, we'd have gone with as much panel as we could fit on the roof and skipped the step-by-step way we went. We'd also have been a lot happier without having to carefully and actively manage our power use to try to keep the generator use to a minimum.

 

We'd have also got the 2000 watt Honda because it would run our coffee pot and espresso machine, where the 1000 (really 843 watts) wouldn't.

[2gypsies]

We easily got by summer and winter with 300Watts of solar. The only time we used our onboard generator was if it was raining or heavy clouds for more than 3 days which was rare. Parking in trees wasn't a problem if we got some sun during the day and we'd park so we could do so. We also 'exercised' our generator once a month because we felt it was a good thing to do. We boondocked/dry camped 90% of the time for 16 years of full-timing. We used a stove-top coffee perculator which made terrific coffee, for toast we'd butter the bread and pop it in the frying pan. We didn't watch T.V. We grilled almost daily and didn't need the microwave.