RickW Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Rick, What inverter/charger are you using? Thanks E.P. I have a Magnum 2812. The same charger/inverter I have in the trailer. It is way more charger/inverter than I need for the truck but I found this one on eBay. It was brand new but dropped with a scratch, dent and broken cleat. It was being sold at a fraction of the cost, full factory warranty and was tested to be in full working condition. The only reason I bought it was it also serves as a back up in the event the one in the trailer bites the dust. While that has never happened it is nice to know that while on the road if the inverter/charger dies I have the luxury of a quick swap and then getting the issue resolved once I get home. 2017 Entegra Anthem 44A SOLD - 2004 Volvo 780. 465hp and 10sp Auto Shift (from 2010~2017) SOLD - 2009 Montana 3400RL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cactus Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I have a Magnum 2812. The same charger/inverter I have in the trailer. It is way more charger/inverter than I need for the truck but I found this one on eBay. It was brand new but dropped with a scratch, dent and broken cleat. It was being sold at a fraction of the cost, full factory warranty and was tested to be in full working condition. The only reason I bought it was it also serves as a back up in the event the one in the trailer bites the dust. While that has never happened it is nice to know that while on the road if the inverter/charger dies I have the luxury of a quick swap and then getting the issue resolved once I get home. Rick Thanks for the come-back and the good info E.P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Ok so I did some rough measuring and where I want to mount my inverter it's going to be approximately 12ft to the batteries. The instructions with the inverter said to use 2/0 with a run no more than 5ft. How do I figure out the wire size needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted March 18, 2016 Report Share Posted March 18, 2016 Size up to 4/0 and let it go. 4/0 is about the largest that you can easily buy and work with without going into the commercial electrical realm. 4/0 welding cable is flexible enough to work within tight spaces without cussing too much! Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 Ok thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoDirectionHome Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg Look up the charging output of your inverter, then using the critical column at 15 ft, determine the wire size you need. Use welding wire and have the ends made up at either a welding supply or electrical supply. I wouldn't skimp here or you'll be dissapointed in your inverter's ability to deliver current. "There are No Experts, Do the Math!" 2014 Freightliner Cascadia DD16 600hp 1850ft-lb 18spd 3.31 260"wb SpaceCraft S-470 SKP #131740 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted March 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I bought a hydraulic crimper to put the ends on my golf Cart batteries so I can make the cables up myself. What's the best way to run the cables through the sleeper since it moves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted March 19, 2016 Report Share Posted March 19, 2016 I drilled a hole and used a fitting like this, sized for the cable. I actually have several of them in the storage area with an assortment of wires running thru. http://www.lowes.com/pd_45744-15527-49092_1z0xc72__?productId=1087617&pl=1 Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted May 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Ok guys it's been a while since my last post but with spring here most my free time has been spent riding atv's. I haven't had time to install my inverer yet but I think I have everything I need. My next question is I have read a lot about hitches and I would like to buy an et hitch but I'm assuming the price is around 4k I can't find an actual price on the internet and haven't had time to call the guy. I was wondering what the benefits are to an et hitch vs a standard fifth wheel hitch and a air ride pin box. We are looking at two campers now. One is 37' with a gvwr of 13500 and the other is 42' with a gvwr of 18000. Thanks for the insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 The ET is around $4k-4.5k but will pay for itself in the long run by the decrease in stress on the trailer especially the 18000 lb one. Got to remember an HDT is not easy on the frame of a trailer. Saying that, Trailersaver, Airsafe, and other air ride hitches are on the market and probably cheaper. A standard hitch with an air ride pin box is an option but in my opinion not as forgiving as an air ride hitch. Understand that is my opinion only and others may feel differently. Also ComfortRide has a hitch using cushioning bumpers and not air bags which is cheaper than an ET. Maybe someone who owns one will give an opinion as they are fairly new to our market. I have heard a head to head review vs. an ET is in the future. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 We have the ET hitch. It is one sweet hitch. I just towed 300 miles with ours and camper was very smooth over some very rough roads. Louisiana to Texas via I-10. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
txdslshop Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 One thing I was told when I was shopping hitches... I have a 13K fiver that doesn't have a lot of pin weight. ET hitches are amazingly strong and the best made. But, I was encouraged to buy something designed for less pin weight so that the air bag size in the hitch would be appropriate for the pin. You should call Henry and discuss your specific application. I ended up getting a nice used trailersaver from someone who upgraded to a larger 5th. When I upgrade to a much larger 5th wheel down the road, there is ono question that I will be picking up an ET. Just my 2cents. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 I have less than 6 but more than 5k pin. Currently moving some stuff from Teton to HDT. ET sweet match. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dblr Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Don't forget he has the ET Junior for lighter pin weights. That is what I have and really like it, smooth riding. 2017 River Stone Legacy 38MB 2001 T2000 Kenworth 2009 Smart Passion ET Junior hitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 Don't forget he has the ET Junior for lighter pin weights. That is what I have and really like it, smooth riding. The Junior with a single bag has a HIGHER pin capacity than the ET Senior with 4 bags. Just to Clarify the names. You also don't want to use an air ride hitch and an air ride pin. Use one or the other. Rod White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors, JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift. 1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022 2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top. 2007 Honda GL 1800 2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Ok Thanks for the info. I had read not to use an air ride hitch and pin box together. I was just wondering if I could get away with using an air pin box and standard hitch to save money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Ok Thanks for the info. I had read not to use an air ride hitch and pin box together. I was just wondering if I could get away with using an air pin box and standard hitch to save money. In the short run, you could save money that way. Over time, with the heavier trailer, the air hitch will save you grief. We picked up a used Trailer Saver from someone here who was upgrading to the ET Jr. as it's a direct swap, uses same mounting, v. the Sr, which is mounted differently. Hopefully Henry will jump in and correct me if I'm wrong. If I'd known we would soon have a heavier trailer, I would likely have gotten the ET, as it's widely considered the best. KW T-680, POPEMOBILE Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer. contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickW Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Save yourself some grief and aggravation and install an air ride hitch from the get go. No mater which one you choose they will all out perform a traditional rigid hitch. Not only will your trailer thank you but so will the stuff inside your trailer. The biggest difference you will notice between a rigid hitch and an air hitch is your stuff inside the trailer will be exactly where you left it. My wife and I even travel with our desktop computers. All we do is place them on the bed. We do not pack them in anything. We have yet to have any problems. I would never do this with a traditional rigid hitch. Personally I have a ET. I have had it for 6 years now over 70k miles. I am as impressed with it today as I was when I purchased it. One of the best features to me is the auto leveling valve. While it could be retrofitted in to most other brands/models it is standard on the ET. While our 5th is the primary trailer I pull, what is nice is when I pull another trailer I do not have to adjust anything. I also have a 25' flatbed gooseneck trailer with a kingpin that I use regularly. The load always varies on that trailer. The hitch automatically adjust each time I hitch even as I load/unload the trailer. Even this weekend I moved my fathers 5th wheel. Much lighter than my 5th wheel but again just hitch and go. Nothing to adjust. Did not have to add/remove air or rubber bumpers for the different trailers. It is not a huge thing but it is always the little things that seem to make the biggest differences. 2017 Entegra Anthem 44A SOLD - 2004 Volvo 780. 465hp and 10sp Auto Shift (from 2010~2017) SOLD - 2009 Montana 3400RL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Understand wanting to cut costs. Things add up quick when retrofitting an HDT. The Hitch area is not a place to cut though. Everything behind you is riding on it 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Thanks for the opinions and insight guys. I think I'll just bite the bullet and go with an et. Other question I have is most of the pictures I've seen have the hitch mounted in between the frame fails at the rear. Without stretching the rear frame I would have to go on top because of the shock mounts at the rear of the frame. Would this put my hitch too high? Is there a standard height for the plate on the hitch. And hall tall is the et hitch. Sorry for all the questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkennell Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I found the biggest issue with the OEM rigid hitch was no side to side motion. Watching in the mirrors I could literally see the trailer twist as I pulled into a rough campsite. All the caulk seams around the nose popped loose every trip. IMO, you HAVE to have either a rigid 2 axis hitch + an air ride pinbox, or an air-ride 2 axis hitch. The air ride hitch is generally preferred. The hitch will need to be mounted "down in" the frame, there is a standard for height and it requires the hitch to sit down in. (I'm sorry I don't have those figures memorized, but Henry (ET) can get you all that.) Extending the hitch out is no biggie...lots of people on here have done it. Solutions include extending the frame, extending a couple heavy (4x4) box irons out the back, etc. Again, a picture of the rear of your frame, and Henry can probably recommend what you need to do. Don't be afraid to put the hitch "out back"--the trailer steers better! No camper at present. Way too many farm machines to maintain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 I'm a welder so I have no issues with adding the frame extensions I'm just trying to keep from any major modifications in case we decide it isn't for us and I need to sell the truck to a commercial driver. These Pete's are pretty well sought after and I got a steal so I will stand to make good profit if I don't make any modifications that hender commercial use until we decide it is right for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 47" to top of pin plate. Highest point on hitch is standard. Measure your height to pin box though.Mine was less. ET measurements on his web site. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yotaonrocks Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Haven't bought the camper so don't have a pin box to compare to at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 47" work with most 5thers. You do have adjustment also in pin box. Most are in 2" changes. I need to correct previous post. I did end up going with 47", initially thought it would be less. Have pin box is neutral position. Can go equally up or down. Level. Hitch is between frame rails. Mine is in dead bottom due to taller tires. Bolts in bottom not typical sides. We also built my bed low because of this. There is months wait for a hitch. Call Henry and verify this. He got mine sooner. It simply goes in open end of frame and raise to needed height and drill holes. Hook up air. It does the rest. Sweet hitch. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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