Any Additional Weight I Need To Consider for RV Weight?

[skp51443]

You'll likely be a lot happier with a Class A than a C, the converted vans look interesting to start with but the compromises involved aren't worth it in my opinion.

 

With either your concern for weight is still a good one, DO NOT get burned by some of the RVs out there that have tiny carrying capacities!

 

On tow bars, shop around and don't take the first one you see. We were looking many years ago and found two things that were very important in our opinions:

 

How easy are they to work if your RV and toad aren't on a very flat surface? We found some that were a real problem and others that were no problem.

 

How heavy are the individual arms? The wife has weak arms and while the lighter units were easy she struggled with a couple of the heavier types, both were strong enough for what we were considering.

[razorbackmark]

Welcome to the Escapees Forum!!!

 

It has always been my understanding that the GVWR of a trailer/5th wheel is the maximum it is designed to carry. That includes all fluids, cargo, etc. So if the 10,000# is really the GVWR not the dry weight or unlaidened weight of the trailer you are looking at; you should use that weight in your calculations for the truck and not plan on loading the trailer beyond 10,000#. 5th wheels can put up to 25% of their GVWR on the truck, so any truck you purchase should have a payload capacity of 2500# plus the weight of all the other items that will be carrying in the truck in excess of a 150# driver. It is not that uncommon for a 5th wheel to put a 3/4 ton truck over its payload capacity, GVWR or rear axle ratings while still being within the Max towing and Gross Combined Weight Ratings. You really need to look at all the numbers, not just one or two. Here is a link to a calculator that may help.

 

Again, Welcome to the Escapees Form!!!

 

 

Be sure and read this carefully, Ive been pulling 5th wheel RV's for over 20 yrs and what I see a lot of in campgrounds is people only look at towing capacity and completely forget (or ignore) payload capacity's. It took me to my second 5th wheel to figure that one out myself. A 10,000 lb (dry weight) 5th wheel can easily go over the payload capacity of a 3/4 ton pickup. As trailer traveler said figure your gross vehicle trailer weight times .25, plus hitch weight, plus anything else you put in the truck including passengers and you get the payload weight.

[razorbackmark]

The hitch looks to be dealer installed but the factory prep kit ($370 option) is the interesting part. I edited my previous post to bold that section. Look under the Equipment link here:

 

http://shop.ford.com/build/superduty/#/config/Config%5B%7CFord%7CSuperDuty%7C2016%7C1%7C1.%7C600A.F2A.137....CBC.X37.REC.NFLEET.996.4X2.44P.SRW.XLL.53W.~F-250.%5D

 

On the hitch heads:

 

 

There is also a lighter hitch also available, rated at 18k for smaller fivers and $1300.00

 

http://accessories.ford.com/exterior/trailer-towing/kit-trailer-hitch-bar-10246.html

 

 

I would suspect you will be able to get other brands of hitch heads to fit the 2016 Ford factory mounting base fairly soon if not already. I found several mentions of them being available from Rese for the 2015 Ford factory prep package.

 

 

there are several options that fit the ford factory mounts I have a B&W hitch in mine. Pull-Rite and Curt also offer them. The Reese hitch looks nice but its almost 2X's as expensive as my B&W. My B&W is rated for 20K.

[jjwicklund]

Kirk and Stanley, guess you haven't been keeping up with the big three offerings in pickups. They all offer various fifthwheel hitch substructure and hitches as options and have for a couple years.

[skp51443]

You are right, I haven't been keeping up, it is good to see the pickup truck manufacturers stepping up and making it easier and safer to have a fiver hitch in a light truck.