Yarome Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 .. not to mention you won't have an inverter or charger on-board for awhile. Depending on how your rig was wired, it might be possible for you to get by on your old converter in the interim If I was to remove the inverter to send to be repaired, wouldn't that stop the batteries from being charged? And since my interior lights are 12V I could drain my batteries. Right? It depends on how your rig is wired. It undoubtedly came with a converter which is capable of providing 12vdc for your lights and such.. as well as charging your batteries while on shore power. When your Maggy was installed there have may have been several "conditions". 1. The converter failed so your Mag was installed as an alternative upgrade. In that event, the converter may still be there, but is disconnected and non-functional. 2. The converter is functional, but a Mag was installed as an upgrade and to add inverter capability off-grid. In that event, one of two "conditions" may be true... 2a. Transfer switches were added so that the converter and Mag are capable of supplying 12vdc to your coach and batteries depending on power source. This is LEAST likely because the cost is prohibitive, it's complicated for most, and serves no purpose other than convenience. 2b. It is the MOST likely that your converter was simply disconnected/taken out of the loop during the course of upgrading to a Mag inverter/charger but is still there and is functional. If so then it's a simple matter to disconnect your Mag and re-connect your converter. It would supply 12vdc for your lights and keep your batteries charged when on shore power. It, more than likely, isn't of the best quality charger, but it would certainly keep you up and running in the interim. This would be my FIRST choice if your Maggy needs a little TLC outside of the home. 3. If your converter is not present or non functional, it's really not ideal, but picking up a semi-decent auto battery charger and plugging it into shore power would keep your lights on and your battery charged. All that being said... here comes the big hiccup if you're not comfortable with electrical wiring... your shore power and DC currents pass through your Mag. If you remove you Magnum, then you will also need to provide a temporary path for even your shore power. It's fairly simple to pick up a non grounded terminal post and just "jumper" the input and output legs though. I've heard of a good mobile tech here in Myrtle Beach and will be calling him after my call to our extended service provider. I had another thought, as mentioned above could I just request new boards and have a tech install them? What else could the problem be but the boards? I would definitely recommend a mobile RV tech if you don't feel comfortable with the electrical system. It's nothing very complicated.. check on the converter status.. disconnect the Mag.. jumper and/or reconnect converter as needed and available. Bada-bing! Best case.. you won't even notice much of a change in your day-to-day until your Mag is back in business. Worst case... you might have to babysit a battery charger, but other than that it won't cramp your style much. It IS possible to obtain boards and a transfer switch for self repair... I would... but I wouldn't recommend it to most. Especially if you have an extended warranty there is no practical reason to do so, and of top of that, I highly doubt an extended warranty service would foot the bill for the components in a self repair situation. There are set procedures and you run the risk of letting the blue smoke out of additional components. I don't know that I would trust a general RV tech to do so, anyway. Reading back to see if all your bases are covered... I didn't see you comment on it, but you MUST test your VAC circuits to ensure there is not a culprit circuit creating on overheat situation on your Mag's FET board. Follow the output cables to your power distribution board and kill the breakers, attempt an inverter reset and see how it plays. Alternatively, you can simply disconnect the VAC output cables from your inverter and then perform a reset. If you fail to rule out a VAC issue, you'll have the same problem all over again. It might also save you a great deal of headache if you find that the boards themselves are not the issue. It doesn't sound "likely", but it MUST still be addressed and ruled out prior to a hardware repair/replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 VAC??? Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 VAC??? 120v AC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 Contacted my extended service provider and they're going to replace the Magnum. All I have to do is pay my $100 ded. Sounds like a win for me. But I still think I need to have the mobile tech check out the system to see what caused the failure if anything in the first place. Otherwise I could end up right back where I am. I'll let you know how it works out, he'll be here Monday. Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 All I have to do is pay my $100 ded. Sounds like a win for me. But I still think I need to have the mobile tech check out the system to see what caused the failure if anything in the first place. Absolutely! Great news, that. If they will go for it, you might see if they would also replace the battery sensor module (it's item#: ME-BMK). It's an "integrated sensor" (I would use that terminology) so they might go for it. If not, you're probably fine, but it never hurts to ask and there 'is' a very very slight possibility it could be reporting inaccurate sensor information to your Mag that it "critical to proper operation". If not, you're probably fine, but it's better to ask now as a "package" replacement then trying to go back after the fact for an additional component replacement. It's really just a better safe than sorry measure.. so if they're willing to do it on their dime.. KWIM? In the interim, review and record your current inverter/charger settings so they are not inadvertently lost. (I'm assuming you have the RC50 remote/control panel.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I have an SB50. Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I have an SB50. Umm.. That would be a Blue Sky panel for your solar controller. How exactly do you turn your inverter on and off? Check out this page and see if you can identify the inverter/charger controller. I may have made some assumptions.. I apologize. What is the actual model# of your inverter/charger? MS2812 isn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Yes it's a MS 2812, and I turn the inverter on & off with a ME Series control. The first one on the page from the site you suggested. Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 Yes it's a MS 2812, and I turn the inverter on & off with a ME Series control. That's what I had thought. So you also have the battery sensor module (it should be near your Mag and connected with the gray phone style cord) and the temperature sensor? It's the battery sensor module you might see if your extended warranty plan would change out as well. If you "don't" have either of those, and your piggy bank will put out, it would be a very good idea to add those to your system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 I also have a Link 10 battery monitor that has never worked properly. It will show one red light on the far left which I assume means low battery. But my batteries are fine. Now if I pull the inline fuse to it, and reinsert it, it will show all green which probably means all I'm doing is resetting it. And it will stay all green for about three days. Then it will slowly start going down til it's red again. The total time is about 5 days for this to happen. This monitor & the ME Series controller is in a cabinet in the bedroom just above where the inverter is in an outside bay. Another thing I thought of, by installing a new inverter does any adjustments have to be made? Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 16, 2016 Report Share Posted January 16, 2016 I also have a Link 10 battery monitor that has never worked properly. That's actually not a bad monitor. Kind of the "go to" meter in the marine world, but one of it's downfalls is having to "sync" it properly when installed and each time the meter is disconnected/reconnected to your battery bank. It might just be a bad unit, but I wouldn't toss it until you've ensured it's not just a syncing issue. You also want to ensure it is properly shunted and all connections are tight and clean. This may not be your exact meter, but the installation and syncing info would be near identical. Refer to pages 16-17. Link 10 manual Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 I really appreciate all the time taken to try and help me wade through all this. So, this syncing should probably need to be redone when the inverter is replaced Mon.? Any other resets needed? Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 So, this syncing should probably need to be redone when the inverter is replaced Mon.? Any other resets needed? Not necessarily. Without actually seeing your wiring, I can't say definitively, but it should be connected to your shunt and shouldn't require disconnection in order to remove/replace your Mag. HOWEVER... if it is necessary to disconnect the ground wire from your batteries, either physically or with a cut-off switch "upriver" of your shunt, then yes, it may need to be sync'd again. Caveat: That's under "normal" conditions... however... that being said... you mentioned that it had not been operating properly which might indicate that it had not previously been sync'd. In that case.. then yes... when your new Mag is installed, and the tech is there, would be a great time to go through your link 10's sync procedure. Additional resets? No, but you will want to run through your ME-RC control panel settings to verify your previous settings have not been reset to default when your Maggy went on vacation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 Just some additional info on the link 10 from what you mentioned previously. Basically, when you were removing then replacing the in-line fuse, you were "syncing" your battery meter... telling it "this is 100% state of charge".. and it would then report battery levels based on what you told it. So here's what can happen. Your battery is at 70%. You remove and replace the fuse which tells your meter 70% "actual" is 100% (all led's illuminated). As your battery level drops.. it might only be down to 50% "actual", but your meter may "see" it as only 10% (single led in the red) based on what you told it was 100%. Does that make sense? Maybe over simplistic, but I'm not the greatest s'plainer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 Ok, I now have a new Magnum Inverter. After replacing the old one, I removed the cover to see if anything would be visible as to what was wrong with it. Well Lo & behold it was petty obvious what was wrong. I have no idea what to call them, but there are 7 little black blocks soldered to a board. Well one of them had broken off and was sitting on it's side not hooked to anything. Magnum must have had this problem before because the new one doesn't have them. Instead it looks like they replaced them with one large capacitor. I'm going to see if the little black block can be re-soldered and if that will fix it. And if it does, I'm going to sell it, as long as it all checks out as being fine. The new one works great and is doing exactly what it should. Thanks for all the help. Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 18, 2016 Report Share Posted January 18, 2016 7 little black blocks soldered to a board. That's great news!! Yes.. that would be the FET board. I wouldn't say that it's been a "problem" per se. The failure rate overall is "extremely" low, however, when they do have an issue, the FET board isn't at all an uncommon culprit. Glad so see back up and running!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 I guess the inverter is toast. I had it bench tested and was told no 110 getting through, which surprised me since I was getting 110 before. What I was getting was a DC overload message. It's still probably worth it to have it repaired at an authorized Magnum facility. I'm going to check into it, and if it can be repaired at a reasonable price, it might still be worth something to someone who wants a 2800w PSW. Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 if it can be repaired at a reasonable price, it might still be worth something to someone who wants a 2800w PSW. Certainly worth looking in to, but I wouldn't plan on making much of anything back on the deal. If it were me, I wouldn't bother with all that. I would pass it off to someone hurtin for a decent inverter/charger and willing to do all the leg work.. or maybe in your case.. ask for $100 to get your deductible back (although 100 bones for a new unit is quite a deal). A FET board alone.. if that's all that's wrong with it, will likely run you $500-$600 all told. With the way the prices have come down you can pick up a refurbished these days for under a grand. A used unit from a private party.. if you could get $700 out of it I think you would be extremely lucky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mariner Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 You're probably right. A guy here where we're staying was sniffing around wondering what I was going to do with the old one. Maybe I'll just give it to him. He'll have to come & get it, lifting it you'd think you were carrying a Volkswagen. It's HEAVY!!!!!! Fulltiming since 2010 2000 Dutch Star 2009 Saturn Vue Myrtle Beach, SC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarome Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 You're probably right. A guy here where we're staying was sniffing around wondering what I was going to do with the old one. Maybe I'll just give it to him. He'll have to come & get it, lifting it you'd think you were carrying a Volkswagen. It's HEAVY!!!!!! That's no joke! I think the 2812 is somewhere around 60lbs. Maneuvering them in and out of tight spaces is NO joy whatsoever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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