thats it ! no more RV trailers for me

[RoosterBooster]

noteven

 

yes, some kind of "over-inflation" devise is also on my list

 

i already experimented with that on my fairly low riding <T> ;

 

 

to make it KISS i had the idea to simply mount the level valve onto a pivot

i added a little air cylinder/dash switch to move it (what raises the suspension)

and a return spring to make it "fail save"

 

worked excellent in theory, but the little air cylinder was not really up to it (would need to be stronger/bigger diameter)

 

surprisingly i dont really ran into much ground clearance problems with my <T> for now,

so i never bothered to replace the cylinder

(its on the "things to do" list)

 

for the trailer i`m thinking to may do a similar setup, but i`m definitely open for any other ideas and suggestions

[Dollytrolley]

So........ just to toss more gas on the fire.....

 

In my last Weight & Balance number-crunch (post #47) Rooster & Star took the lazy-man-method to regain within-limit-trailer-axle-loading by just sliding the 15K trailer axle BACK 90 INCHES.......Gulp......but the desire to haul 2,400 POUNDS of adult beverages makes folks do desperate things.......

 

Of course Rooster had already posted the image of the improved 20K trailer axle and if he had installed that axle at the start of the "project" then Star could just have to add a couple THOUSAND pounds of adult beverages in various locations to arrive at the "perfect-center-of-gravity-location".....and still have a few pounds of axle capacity left to spare......

 

Ok.....here comes the "gas-toss"........up here on the view-point-mom-in-law-mansion-overlooking-the-Columbia-River at Rainier, OR......most days we see upwards of 1,500 loads of logs hauled into the ship loading docks across the river in Longview Washington........Basically we have two types of log trucks.......the first type is a transfer-log-hauler that operates almost exclusively from one log storage site to another site on paved public roads........the second type of log hauler is called a long-logger and it is a totally different animal but most folks do not seem to notice the difference......but the differences are huge......

 

Whenever the long-logger is empty it almost always hauls it's trailer piggy-back on the back of the truck.......IF the trailer is unloaded and needs to be moved empty you just hitch up the trailer and drop-in the "compensating-reach-lock-pin" and then the trailer tows just like any hook-hitch trailer..........now things are about to get a bit-weird.......as soon as you start loading long logs onto the truck trailer combo you have to remove the "compensating-reach-lock-pin" because now the logs are the only part of the combo that actually is the structure that transfers the tow energy to the trailer.....NOT the trailer-reach-stinger..........once the logs are loaded the trailer reach / stinger only steers the trailer it has no actual tow-pulling loads........

 

The log bunk on the truck swivels much like a fifth-wheel-hitch and the log trailer log bunk ALSO swivels like a fifth-wheel-hitch and the trailer

"compensating-reach-stinger" extends in and out as needed as the truck turns left and right on the narrow and twisty back wood logging roads that often are a chore to drive a crew-cab pickup on........

 

The fairly simple self-steering long-logger combo very closely tracks the truck.........something that is sadly missing in larger RV's........of course most RV parks have plenty of room to maneuverer a long rig.......ya right......

 

I know .........there goes "KISS".....maybe......there are plenty of commercial steer hardware options off the shelf............

 

Ok.....where is my Nomex speedo............(not a pretty picture).......

 

Drive on..........(Why did that trailer not hop the curb and that corner.......)

[RoosterBooster]

Dolly

no fireproof underwear needed;

that is a very interesting idea

 

in a moment of "what if money would be no problem" i also looked into a steerable rear axle

dual tire steer axles like this Hendrikson are available ...

 

 

naturally steer angle is limited due to the duals but still adequate

it would be absolutely pimp to baffle everybody when you back your trailer into impossible spots

 

sadly that setup (and the sub-system to remotely steer and lock out for travel) is not something i can afford

[Dollytrolley]

Ok .....I been......"OUTED"........

 

Stekay has been running my Wt & Bal calcs in the "stealth-mode" and has uncovered a "deep-lie-number".........I been using D20 in place of H20..........10.8% more dense.........Stekay seems to know that we are next-door to the defunct Trojan Nuke plant and so we have been tapping some 'heavy water" I suspect..........

 

Anyhow like I said...... lairs, number and.......numbers lie......

 

So if you use H20 ......120 gals will likely be 996 Lbs NOT 1008 Lbs.......and so 40 gals of h20 in the reserve tank will be about 332 Lbs NOT 336 LBS..........No wonder smart folks simply give up on water and simply drink .....Adult-Beverages.......the more you drink the less the numbers count.........

 

Drive on............(Park and mix a Harvey-Wall-Banger.........weigh it later)

[noteven]

Guys take a look at Simard Suspensions there is a video of a steering semi trailer concrete mixer motoring around an office parking lot...

[PSD_Tweaker]

If you get back to looks & design, I think something along these lines would be pretty cool:

https://www.facebook.com/voyagerrv/photos/a.488559856748.264601.195499736748/10153573376201749/?type=3

 

 

Rick

[noteven]

Rooster - the over inflation feature is part of the levelling valve and is activated by air pressure supplied to the valve through a dash valve. Inquire at a Kenworth dealer for part KD2431 levelling valve.

[RoosterBooster]

Rooster - the over inflation feature is part of the levelling valve and is activated by air pressure supplied to the valve through a dash valve. Inquire at a Kenworth dealer for part KD2431 levelling valve.

 

thats great tech info ... thank you !

doh ... never actually checked if something like that is actually available

 

shows me again that it is worth throwing your project ideas onto a forum

[noteven]

You're welcome.

 

On edit -

 

Self Steering lift axles should be readily available at salvage yards instead of new - a little inspecting, blasting and a touch of paint .... modify for driver controlled low speed steering...

 

Jack - I've been doodling a trailer that has a deep pin and a 11 ft garage with Rooster drop floor and recovering the living space over the rear of the tractor.... advantage tractor can be shorter and easier to park etc

 

But I am also doodling a all living space FTV trailer with bike/4 wheels carry space on the tractor - advantage more living space....

[RoosterBooster]

You're welcome.

 

On edit -

 

Self Steering lift axles should be readily available at salvage yards instead of new - a little inspecting, blasting and a touch of paint .... modify for driver controlled low speed steering...

 

Jack - I've been doodling a trailer that has a deep pin and a 11 ft garage with Rooster drop floor and recovering the living space over the rear of the tractor.... advantage tractor can be shorter and easier to park etc

 

But I am also doodling a all living space FTV trailer with bike/4 wheels carry space on the tractor - advantage more living space....

 

yeah, live is full of compromises

 

i`m kinda stuck with the Toyhauler setup anyway ...

the doghouse ...er ...sleeper takes up most of the truck chassis

my hairy kids (two 80 lbs Briard`s) would kill me if i got rid of that

the bed is just 7'x8' and only for hauling when bobtailing ...

 

 

 

naturally i do want as much living room as possible

my current trailer is a measured 39' nose to tail with a 11' garage and 100" wide

plan for the new trailer is to slightly reduce rear overhang (10' garage)

but add 3' at the nose and another 3' to overall length for a total of 45 foot

 

finished interior will be 96" with a 3" finished wall thickness what adds up to 102" overall

i do want to keep the overall height/drag moderate ... top of my stacks are a little over 10',

so i`m shooting for a trailer roof height of around 11' (maybe a little more... i do want room for ~ 6" roof insulation)

 

i also plan to build the garage floor/tail with a 3 degree up angle when rigged for traveling for an extra 5" of departure clearance

 

due to Johns (Grendel) influence it will be heavier gauge aluminum compared to some of my earlier design ideas

(and all 1/4" Huck bolt construction instead of 3/16" rivets)

 

however unlike the sleeper we are building for his truck (all .125" aluminum for impact resistance/passenger safety)

i`m thinking to reduce weight/price by going with .080" sheets/ Z-spars

 

...

[shorts]

Keep looking, I see rear loading refuse trucks around here with non steering wide track single wheel lift axles probably 12 or 14K with standard 22.5 tires and wheels. I also see wide track non steer trailer axles with narrower than super single but wider than standard width 22.5 tires

 

 

Maybe its time to research the application engineering guides for Meritor and DANA Spicer axles again, IIRC they use several main parameters when rating axle capacities, the main parts of the equation is distance from the spring pad/mount point to the wheel flange/axle end load. pick your axle capacity, find a tire size/combination that works for you,2,5 Singles should get you into a 12 or 14K axle without getting into hard to find/expensive tires and wheels, use common spindle/hub/brake parts. In reality the only truly custom part would be the axle beam length and suspension mounting points, not a whole lot different than any of the other RV axle packages. Pick a low profile air suspension unit and down rate its capacity by having Goodyear or Firestone application engineering help you spec a standard airbag to carry the load. FYI the Ridewell parts lists reference Firestone airbag part numbers

 

Build your custom? step frame, aren't they all different, with a tall Z shaped frame section to carry the suspension while keeping the floor low and relatively wide thru that area and use your choice of more conventional framing for the rest of the structure weather it be stressed panels like a freight van, conventional straight I beam or box tube frame rails, or a combination of both types of construction.

 

 

I can see lots of merit to a RV width front frame section for ease of packaging standard RV tanks and systems tying that to a different suspension module and then using some version of stress skin construction for the rear garage with a hinged drop floor/ramp

[RoosterBooster]

Shorts

 

yes, unlike most RV trailers (who`s bodies have only "some" structural value) this all aluminum construction will be virtually self supporting

so i look at the "frame" more as a devise to "spread" high punctual loads (like kingpin, suspension/bag mounts etc) into the structure

and to bridge/re-enforce the large slide-out openings

 

after doodling around a little i actually like a narrow semi trailer style (sub)frame better then a wide "RV trailer" one

one of the main reasons is that this gives me the opportunity to add a low entry door with internal/ recessed steps

no more rain/snow/ice on wobbly exposed fold out stair steps

best thing i ever did to my sleeper...

 

(with susp and sleeper bags dumped like this ^ i dont even need any outside step at all)

 

so i definitely want that feature at the trailer as well

 

one thing that i also need/want for fulltiming is lots of outside storage compartments

i rather have only a couple things in each compartment then one big mess in one single huge compartment (if that makes sense)

at 45' and with a relative tallish floor height (and only one axle taking up room) i should have plenty of space for all the tanks

[grendel]

and insulation...

[RoosterBooster]

and insulation...

 

lol

yes, insulated and heated tanks AND plumbing (handy if i ever stay another winter in NH )

[noteven]

grendel mentioned insulation right?

[RoosterBooster]

grendel mentioned insulation right?

 

i think that came up somewhere in our conversation already

 

as well as TWO independent heat sources

at my current Toyhauler i was very glad that i added a small (outside vented!) LP wall heater i had left over from a vintage trailer

the forced air furnace quit on me during the coldest night we had so far

the little wall heater was at least capable to keep the inside temps bearable

thankfully the furnace worked again after cleaning out some debris

 

 

not a big fan of noisy forced air (and the "hot,cold,hot,cold,..." cycle) ,

so on the new trailer i`m thinking large (outside vented!) LP wall heater or possible even a pellet stove

found some interesting low power consumption models that even have internal UPS battery to power the auger and combustion fan

 

but for the secondary heat i probably still use a standard forced air furnace (that is also ducted into the tank/plumbing basement)

 

as usual, any other ideas & suggestions are appreciated

[grendel]

Pin on side skirting... like you should have now.

[noteven]

Been looking to the narrowboat world for ideas for heating without blowers, noise, power consumption, hot cold draft cycles, quitting just when you need it...http://www.whiltonmarina.co.uk/narrowboat-blog/2013/12/whilton-marina-heating-systems-available-for-narrow-boats/

[RoosterBooster]

Been looking to the boat world for ideas ....

 

... so do i

 

i love the very compact all stainless Dickinson Newport Boat furnace series (diff models available in solid fuel, diesel or LP):

 

 

unfortunately i have a champagne taste, but only a beer budget

 

... so that elegant solution is probably out of my reach

[Broncohauler]

Pin on side skirting... like you should have now.

Seems like a great friend and landlord would hook a guy up don't you think?

We know if RB is dose it himself it will be some hand crafted riveted art piece ?

[Hewhoknowslittle]

 

i think that came up somewhere in our conversation already

 

as well as TWO independent heat sources

at my current Toyhauler i was very glad that i added a small (outside vented!) LP wall heater i had left over from a vintage trailer

the forced air furnace quit on me during the coldest night we had so far

the little wall heater was at least capable to keep the inside temps bearable

thankfully the furnace worked again after cleaning out some debris

 

 

not a big fan of noisy forced air (and the "hot,cold,hot,cold,..." cycle) ,

so on the new trailer i`m thinking large (outside vented!) LP wall heater or possible even a pellet stove

found some interesting low power consumption models that even have internal UPS battery to power the auger and combustion fan

 

but for the secondary heat i probably still use a standard forced air furnace (that is also ducted into the tank/plumbing basement)

 

as usual, any other ideas & suggestions are appreciated

 

RB,

on the secondary heat have you checked into the cheepheat option that makes it a dual fuel unit?

I added it to both of my heaters, it installs to the output of the unit, and uses resistance heating, Works great to about 10 degrees here.

Just thought I would throw this into the mix,

 

Roger

[Broncohauler]

I like the dickenson that looks a lot more efficient.

Designing my new truck conversion motor home now that just might be an option

[phoenix2013]

Shorts

 

yes, unlike most RV trailers (who`s bodies have only "some" structural value) this all aluminum construction will be virtually self supporting

so i look at the "frame" more as a devise to "spread" high punctual loads (like kingpin, suspension/bag mounts etc) into the structure

and to bridge/re-enforce the large slide-out openings

 

after doodling around a little i actually like a narrow semi trailer style (sub)frame better then a wide "RV trailer" one

one of the main reasons is that this gives me the opportunity to add a low entry door with internal/ recessed steps

no more rain/snow/ice on wobbly exposed fold out stair steps

best thing i ever did to my sleeper...

 

(with susp and sleeper bags dumped like this ^ i dont even need any outside step at all)

 

so i definitely want that feature at the trailer as well

 

one thing that i also need/want for fulltiming is lots of outside storage compartments

i rather have only a couple things in each compartment then one big mess in one single huge compartment (if that makes sense)

at 45' and with a relative tallish floor height (and only one axle taking up room) i should have plenty of space for all the tanks

Nice progress, familiar with those winters there, been your neighbor, lived 42 years in Plaistow then moved for 5 year 20 miles south of Lebanon, talking about ass freezing weather there. It was a great motivator to to move to southern Florida 3 years ago.

Did you inquire about putting an ET in the back deck?

[grendel]

Nice progress, familiar with those winters there, been your neighbor, lived 42 years in Plaistow then moved for 5 year 20 miles south of Lebanon, talking about ass freezing weather there. It was a great motivator to to move to southern Florida 3 years ago.

Did you inquire about putting an ET in the back deck?

I did, yes.

[phoenix2013]

I did, yes.

If the framing on the rig is narrower that conventional (32.5" internal), some customization of the main ET plate will be necessary, or you might have to go to the ET Jr. which is 24 inches wide. What is the space between the frame rails?