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Residential Refrigerator Upgrade


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Randy, probably the first modification I'll make to my small motorhome (once I buy it) is the installation of a residential refrigerator - or so says Danielle. And it will be of this type. I do have access to a scope and other instrumentation when in CO, so it will be interesting to see what this thing actually looks like (electrically) :) On the other hand, if you buy one to keep beer cold than than might allow me to focus on simply installing the critter, instead of understanding it's electrical characteristics.;)

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Paul, cool and as said, "Drive On"

 

I trust your measurments and remain amazed at the results. I'm an old man that earned his EE when we were still using knob and tube house wiring and vacuum tubes. All this "new stuff" like VFD refrigeration compressors are not unfamiliar conceptionally but require additional study to fully understand how well they perform.

 

Getting back to some of the "old stuff" like MSW inverters - just for back pocket reference the difference between the "lost" battery reserve between a 400W and 1000W inverter is really insignificant. Over a 25 hour period you are looking at something like 10 minutes more with the 400W unit.

 

I also hate the way manufacturers advertise a 400W MSW inverter as having 800W of surge power. Shucks, some even advertise them as 800W units :angry: . The "surge" power is supplied by one or more electrolytic capacitors on the DC side of the switching transistors. If you were to do a current plot for this surge on the AC side you would find it in the order of 2-3 milliseconds - way short of anything of significance in getting an electric motor rolling (my digital o'scope records and is fast enough to capture that time frame). For those not familiar with such trivia, that is no more than 3/1000th (.003) of a second. Considering the frequency of a typical AC sine wave being 60 Hz, or switching polarity 60 times a second, that is just a tiny map dot at the beginning of the first cycle and way short of the needed time to charge even a small AC starting capacitor which normally needs at least two full cycles for a X2 surge of 33 ms. Now, that said, a VFD compressor that ramps up from locked rotor current slowly might just benefit from that .003 second surge - I'll have to do some more "learning" on these VFD units to definatively give a yes or no. It also comes to mind that it is a shame we do not have a control board option that powers the refrigerator's inverter directly from a DC source, eliminating the need for us to use an external inverter to provide the residential 120VAC. Maybe if there is enough demand some injun-ear will develop one for us?

 

Anyway, thanks for sharing the background and results you have found. You have raised my level of curosity on the innards of these new animals. Might just have to buy one so I can learn more :rolleyes:

 

Randy,

 

I would not take my "testing-measurements" to the bank and as far as larger vs smaller inverter I suppose that the "energy-savings" are fairly small as you have pointed out as well......part of my "energy-fetish" is that I am fairly "lazy" when it comes to our boondocking-electrical system........Our total "battery-bank" consists of ......TWO group 31 batteries that in a pinch I can utilize as truck battery spares for the old Freightshaker........obviously these are not the ideal house batteries so I try to not overload them too much.........we do not have TV or any electrical appliance EXCEPT the small coffee-grinder (don't even think about the Dolly-moma without the morning coffee) EVERY light is LED and IF we ever need to charge the batteries we have a OLD EM-650 Honda Gen that is rated at 650W but we seldom use it. On the Freightshaker we carry a 2.6Kw gen that we only use for "shop-power" when I weld, grind or drill.......BUT ......I am retired so I very seldom crank-up the "shop-gen" (last two "shop-runs" were to cobble-other-folks-projects).....

 

While mumbling about battery-power I should mention that we have become "addicted" to a bunch of LED utility light units that we purchase at Tractor-Supply......these insanely-useful LED lights have a ball-joint mag + hook swivel-base and run-forever on 3 AAA batteries these units have about dozen large LED's and provide very nice flood coverage......these -$5.00 units are everywhere in our camp and many nights these are the only lights on in our camp so the ONLY RV battery draw we have is the fridge most nights......... we purchase the Costco AAA 48 battery pile for about $12 and so far we are into our second season on the original pile.

 

When we boondock if we need heat we do NOT use the furnace but we just fire-up our Big Buddy heater is uses no elec. and make no noise.

the only other elec draw is the on-demand water pump but for longer stays I do have a 120 gal air-over-water tank that I can throw into the Shaker-garage and then we have a remote pressure water system that is air-charged up every couple of weeks from a minute of being plugged into the Freightshaker air system.

 

Funny story about the Tractor Supply LED's ..........one afternoon last winter in AZ I crawled under the Freightshaker with the intent of brush-cleaning the fins on the transmission cooler and as prt of the "project" I just placed one of the lights inside each side of the frame rails using the magnetic base........while under the truck the Dolly-moma came over and said that the weather alert had come on and that the forcast was for heavy rains tonight so we might be best off to move camp to higher ground.........as ordered......I crawled out from under the truck and ......MOVED camp about a half mile.....that evening one of the nearby campers was driving by and all of a sudden he stops and backs-up.......

I get up and walk over to his rig and he says "do you need any help?' ......I scratch my head and say......"heck yes I always need help, why do you ask?" ......he points over to the Freightshaker and guess what.........the ENTIRE underside of the old truck was lit-up bright as day........I had left the darn LED light on........I turned and said "Oh ya, I keep the Dollytrolley lit up like that ......it's a real Chick-magnet........" he smiled and said........"dream-on.....dream-on....old-geezer......

 

Anyhow our fridge testing is not likely to be very valid for most campers because our electrical usage is so low ..........and we do not drink beer so our door opening counts are pretty low as well.....I do have a "theory" that this fridge is well insulated and the doors seem to seal very well so it seems to recover very quickly from having the door(s) opened......just my "theory" ..........

 

Drive on.........(Keep your......cool)

 

So

 

However I suppose the "real-life-testing" is the test that matters.....and so far this cheep-little-fridge has amazed us.....I never expected it to be able to exceed our expectations.....but it has in spades.

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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Dollytrolly.....is THIS the fridge you have?

 

You say you "converted it"....what does that entail?

 

That fridge is 29" deep. Doesn't it stick out from the cabinets by four or five inches? I guess that's not an issue if it's not on the same wall as the cabinets.

Everybody wanna hear the truth, but everybody tell a lie.  Everybody wanna go to Heaven, but nobody want to die.  Albert King

 

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Randy, probably the first modification I'll make to my small motorhome (once I buy it) is the installation of a residential refrigerator - or so says Danielle. And it will be of this type. I do have access to a scope and other instrumentation when in CO, so it will be interesting to see what this thing actually looks like (electrically) :) On the other hand, if you buy one to keep beer cold than than might allow me to focus on simply installing the critter, instead of understanding it's electrical characteristics. ;)

Jack, the very thought of you guys going to a small motorhome is incredulous. I just can't picture you guys in anything but your New Horizon's and Volvo. You have given so much to this group - your experiences were invaluable when we went over to the dark side six years ago and still remain so. I don't know if you will continue to hang out here or not - but I hope so.

 

Anyway - "Drive On"

 

Paul,

You have done well managing your energy needs. Still, I am surprised you have not at least taken advantage of one of the Harbor Freight sales on their trio of 15 watt solar panels and controller for a buck-fifty or less. Not the ideal system but for the price........

 

The fridge remains an enigma to me, but I will explore more.

 

I appreciate Jeff getting this topic rolling so all the info could be shared.

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Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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Randy, we are keeping the big guy. Just adding a little guy for shorter trips into places that are more conducive to the little fellow....Eventually we may (one day) get rid of the big stuff and stop fulltiming...but that day is far into the future, I hope.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Jack - good news. TNX.

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Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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I'm getting closer to being convinced to switch to a household fridge. Couple of questions related to this topic. chirakawa points out the 29" depth and questions if it sticks out. I'm guessing they fit in fine since the lp fridge has a large area back there for the combustion stuff? What about the condensate tray? Pretty sure the lp fridge has a tube that takes the condensate out the back to the outside. What are you guys doing with your residential units about this? What about the door latch? Lastly, the wiring. Do you have to switch the plug to a hard wired 120 volt receptacle when you're on shore power, and then plug it over into the inverter when on 12v? Thanks!

'03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters.

 

St. Paul, MN

 

www.bobwinsor.com

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Randy, we are keeping the big guy. Just adding a little guy for shorter trips into places that are more conducive to the little fellow....Eventually we may (one day) get rid of the big stuff and stop fulltiming...but that day is far into the future, I hope.

 

When changing home bases - sit a cardboard cutout of Danielle behind the wheel, hook up the road surface and weeds camo tow bar, and double tow the Little Fellow like she is tailgaiting the Big Fellow.

 

...need coffee...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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I'm getting closer to being convinced to switch to a household fridge. Couple of questions related to this topic. chirakawa points out the 29" depth and questions if it sticks out. I'm guessing they fit in fine since the lp fridge has a large area back there for the combustion stuff? What about the condensate tray? Pretty sure the lp fridge has a tube that takes the condensate out the back to the outside. What are you guys doing with your residential units about this? What about the door latch? Lastly, the wiring. Do you have to switch the plug to a hard wired 120 volt receptacle when you're on shore power, and then plug it over into the inverter when on 12v? Thanks!

These fridges are self defrosting and the condensation evaporates on a small tray from the heat of the equip. No drain needed.

 

You already have a 120V plug for the std fridge. Just have to cap the propane and terminate the 12v.

 

There are lots of ways to set up the travel mode or boondock. I chose to run a new circuit to he fridge with an auto changeover transfer switch. I I I select the inverter on with a remote switch and when I unplug the trailer shore oower the inverter takes over.

 

I use a pure sine wave 1000 wt inverter. Perfect for these std residential fridges and mine has almost zero draw in stby mode.

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/

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When changing home bases - sit a cardboard cutout of Danielle behind the wheel, hook up the road surface and weeds camo tow bar, and double tow the Little Fellow like she is tailgaiting the Big Fellow.

 

...need coffee...

Hopefully we do not have to do that very often....but we will from time-to-time. The only question will be - who gets to drive the truck....It is hard to get Danielle away from that wheel....she loves that truck.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Thanks Billr. I am too cheap to buy an auto transfer switch. I'm leaning toward mounting the inverter in the cabinet under the fridge and moving the existing 120v receptacle down to that area too. Then just plug the fridge into whichever outlet I want there. Would there be electrical advantage/disadvantage to doing it that way rather than mounting the inverter way in back near my house batteries and then running romex from there to the under fridge cabinet and mounting a receptacle there?

 

Am I right about the depth question? Also wondering about the door(s) latch?

'03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters.

 

St. Paul, MN

 

www.bobwinsor.com

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Thanks Billr. I am too cheap to buy an auto transfer switch. I'm leaning toward mounting the inverter in the cabinet under the fridge and moving the existing 120v receptacle down to that area too. Then just plug the fridge into whichever outlet I want there. Would there be electrical advantage/disadvantage to doing it that way rather than mounting the inverter way in back near my house batteries and then running romex from there to the under fridge cabinet and mounting a receptacle there?

 

Am I right about the depth question? Also wondering about the door(s) latch?

 

You really want the run for inverter supply as short as possible. Mounting closer to batts is better. In most it's a long way from the batts to fridge.

 

I use a couple nylon straps with snaps to keep doors closed while traveling. There are some latches out there that do nice too. Saw some in a new unit at a show.

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/

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Here is the transfer switch I used. Not too bad of cost. http://www.bestconverter.com/Xantrex-Prowatt-SW-Inline-15-Amp-Transfer-Switch_p_457.html

 

This is the inverter http://www.bestconverter.com/Prowatt-SW1000-Sine-Wave-Inverter_p_374.html#.VnC79-w8LCQ

 

I got the inverter on sale for $170

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/

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Thanks Billr. I am too cheap to buy an auto transfer switch. I'm leaning toward mounting the inverter in the cabinet under the fridge and moving the existing 120v receptacle down to that area too. Then just plug the fridge into whichever outlet I want there. Would there be electrical advantage/disadvantage to doing it that way rather than mounting the inverter way in back near my house batteries and then running romex from there to the under fridge cabinet and mounting a receptacle there?

 

Am I right about the depth question? Also wondering about the door(s) latch?

Bob, keep in mind that 1000 watts (9 amps) at 110 volts is still going to be 1,000 watts at 12.6 volts but the amperage jumps up to 79 amps draw from your batteries. You cannont create or destroy energy, only convert it! Power = Power. It will cost you a lot less to put the inverter close to your batteries and run some #14 AWG cable to the fridge rather than running #2 AGW copper cable over a longer distance to the inverter.

 

I'm cheap too when it comes to buying simple equipment like low current transfer switches. It is not difficult to make a manual transfer switch for something like the output for the fridge by using two 3-way light switches mounted in a double gang box using a tie bar on the switch handles (20 amp rating of course) or even better a DPDT 120VAC relay (example) placed in a PVC electrical box to make an automatic switch. If you like or need, I would be glad to provide how-to photos and wiring diagrams.

300.JPG.c2a50e50210ede7534c4c440c7f9aa80.JPG

Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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Give up on the transfer switch, and the Post-It notes needed to remind one to flip the switch, and simply run the fridge off the inverter full time. When you're plugged in, the converter will feed the batteries, which feeds the inverter, which feeds the fridge. While travelling, the battery bank should be sized to survive without a charge source, or alternate charging arranged. The alternates include permanent solar, or the alternator feed.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Give up on the transfer switch, and the Post-It notes needed to remind one to flip the switch, and simply run the fridge off the inverter full time. When you're plugged in, the converter will feed the batteries, which feeds the inverter, which feeds the fridge. While travelling, the battery bank should be sized to survive without a charge source, or alternate charging arranged. The alternates include permanent solar, or the alternator feed.

What Darryl mentions is also what a lot of he RV mfg are doing in the new rigs. I prefer he Inverter off when not needed and enjoyed setting it up. ?

But there may not be a real need for my setup other than that.

 

Have not heard of an issues running the inverter all the time and there are a ton of then out there.

 

Needs a quality inverter I'm sure.

Bill and Joan and 3 Collie pups

2001 Volvo VNL 770 "The Doghouse" Singled short, "ET" hItch VED12 465HP Gen 1 Autoshift 3.58 ratio  2005 Mobile Suite 38RL3  2011 Smart Passion loaded piggybacK

Weigh-It Portable RV Scales http://www.weighitrv.com/

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What Darryl mentions is also what a lot of he RV mfg are doing in the new rigs. I prefer he Inverter off when not needed and enjoyed setting it up.

But there may not be a real need for my setup other than that.

 

Have not heard of an issues running the inverter all the time and there are a ton of then out there.

 

Needs a quality inverter I'm sure.

Setting it up without a transfer switch works fine. As Bill said, use a quality inverter, NOT a $100 truck stop inverter. And when you wire it, make SURE that you wire it so that the inverter can be easily removed and the direct wire connection made without a lot of trouble. This will allow you to remove the inverter for replacement/repair easily and re-power the fridge directly. PLAN for failure, and hope that you never need to replace it.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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Setting it up without a transfer switch works fine. As Bill said, use a quality inverter, NOT a $100 truck stop inverter. And when you wire it, make SURE that you wire it so that the inverter can be easily removed and the direct wire connection made without a lot of trouble. This will allow you to remove the inverter for replacement/repair easily and re-power the fridge directly. PLAN for failure, and hope that you never need to replace it.

 

This is the manner in which I've been running all of my inverted loads for 4 years. Now, it was because the inverter/charger was partially broken and didn't detect incoming power--not exactly "by design." That kind of configuration has shown a lot of advantages though, and is how the lithium system is designed to operate (the collection of lithium batteries and electronics on my kitchen counter is just a little bit out of control). I'm able to run both air conditioners on top of all of the intermittent stuff (without thinking about it) on a 30A hook-up with the "bad" inverter (plugging the charger directly into a 15A outlet if I'm going to be hard on the batteries).

 

The lithium system is getting close to being installed--I've been bench testing for a little while, and so far, so good. Charging the pack at a 12kW rate (which gets a full charge in right about an hour) doesn't generate enough heat to be detected without the cooling loop hooked up. And if you want lots of power, look out--you'll get everything you could ask for (more if you're not thinking). I'm due to post on progress, but it's probably going to be after New Years.

 

But back to the refrigerator discussion, and knowing I'm going to be changing my house battery setup a few times and that it'll be on and off quite a bit while I'm tinkering, I've switched the refrigerator over to its own inverter, running on what's left of the old 12V system. It's just a 200W PSW inverter, and does the job fine off of the circuit that fed the old RV fridge control board. My power meter shows a peak of about 150W when the compressor cycles on, and that's without any soft starting--just a mechanical switch.

45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to

Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com

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Give up on the transfer switch, and the Post-It notes needed to remind one to flip the switch, and simply run the fridge off the inverter full time. When you're plugged in, the converter will feed the batteries, which feeds the inverter, which feeds the fridge. While travelling, the battery bank should be sized to survive without a charge source, or alternate charging arranged. The alternates include permanent solar, or the alternator feed.

 

That is all well and good provided:

  1. Your trailer/truck is NOT equipped with an OEM WIFCO 55 amp or less converter/charger. This converter/charger is the "usual" OEM equipment in all but high end fivers. It is, IMPO, a POS, with a ridiculous power factor in the range of .65, prone to early failure from overheating at load and is a poor attempt at a battery charger. At a minimum I would suggest a Progressive Dynamics PD9270. Go Power, IOTA and Parrallax also offers higher amperage "intelligent" 4-stage converter chargers. You might want to visit this link to find some more detailed information from a guy that is not an EE.
  2. As Jack noted, you are NOT using a "Truck Stop" (his words ^_^, not mine ) inverter. Actually, these inverters (which are Modified Sine Wave or MSW) are not all that bad and work well with most AC devices and appliances. Unfortunately, a MSW inverter may possibly cause a refrigeration compressor or any device with a transformer or capacitors used as part of a rectifier or voltage alternation circuit to run/work at higher temperatures/lower voltage than a true sine wave as supplied by a quality Pure Sine Wave digital inverter or utility.

Just something else to think about :mellow:.

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Randy, Nancy and Oscar

"The Great White" - 2004 Volvo VNL670, D12, 10-speed, converted to single axle pulling a Keystone Cambridge 5th wheel, 40', 4 slides and about 19,000# with empty tanks.

ARS - WB4BZX, Electrical Engineer, Master Electrician, D.Ed., Professor Emeritus - Happily Retired!

 

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For all the hand wringing over "Truck Stop" inverters, and now converters, I'm surprised no one has jumped up with a warning to make sure wire is sized appropriately, or to beware of heat issues if venting isn't sized appropriately, or to ensure wiring connections are checked for correct tension at least yearly.

None of these have any direct effect on transfer switch questions, and I took them to be in the background, given the work the OP has tied up already in his system.

If you don't like the idea of running off an inverter 24/7, please raise your concerns, so we can discuss them without muddying the thread.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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Thanks a lot for all the responses. Lots of great advice. I'm a lot closer to putting in that Fridgidare 12 c/f unit now. My Norcold 8 c/f is no 13 years old. I'm just worried about it leaking and catching fire.

'03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters.

 

St. Paul, MN

 

www.bobwinsor.com

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Hey Jeff, any pictures? Did you seal up the old vents with spray foam? I seem to remember your top vent is on the side of your rig? My top vent is on my roof. So that might be an interesting thing to seal off.

'03 United Specialties truck conversion, Freightliner FL112, Cat C12, 10 sp Autoshift, 295" w/b, 26' living quarters.

 

St. Paul, MN

 

www.bobwinsor.com

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Hey Jeff, any pictures? Did you seal up the old vents with spray foam? I seem to remember your top vent is on the side of your rig? My top vent is on my roof. So that might be an interesting thing to seal off.

There were some pictures taken during the install. I believe Vern will start a thread on the actual installation. Prior to the installation of the fridge, Vern strengthened our slide floor with some steel angle iron and made provisions for adjusting the pressure on the slide floor. This was necessary due to the 1" plywood sagging from the support roller to the end wall of the slide. I'm sure he will follow up on this. At this time we have sealed the sides of the removeable fridge vents with 2" rigid styrofoam insulation and plan to insulate the actual vent panels with the same after fridge operation has been observed for a couple of weeks. You remember well Bob - we do not have a roof vent for the fridge, there are 2 vents on the wall and upper and a lower.

Cindy & Jeff Brett
2014 Mobile Suite Memphis 44'
2004 Volvo 630 (The Sonshine Express), ET Hitch, Jackalopee & Szmyt Wonderbed
2016 Smart (Blanche)

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